currently at wot I'm ~12.8 a/f on 7psi, can the current tune work at 10 psi? Should I bring it to my local tuner to check it out before upping it? I plan on getting a wideband if I'm able to monitor it myself.

Thanks

 

12.8 is lean for boost gt it retuned if you plan on turning boost up

 

so youre saying 12.8 a/r at wide open throttle is lean? Why is he telling me 12.8 is rich? What should I be looking for, and what timing should I have? I want to keep it safe.

 

Go to the tuner.. let him decide that. Stop trying to figure out specific timing.. that's why he exists..

Yes, you must retune for higher boost pressure.

 

Can you tell me the ideal A/F ratio for a boosted set up so I know once I have a wideband?

 

No more then 12.1 IMO, at high RPM past 6k I start to fatten up even more for safety measures. Again as stated let your tuner figure that out.

 

Normally I would agree, let the tuner worry about the tune.

But you sai your tuner told you 12.8:1 was rich?? If he did, then he clearly has no idea what he is doing, and I would find a different tuner.

12.8:1 would be rich on an all motor set up, as WOT should be around 13.5:1 on ALL MOTOR.

On boosted set ups, the target A/F ratio should be 11.5:1 to 12:1 range.

12:1 being the leanest it should be in boost, it is indeed safer to run 11.5:1 in the higher rpms.

The higher the number, the leaner it is, the lower the number, the richer it is.

As far as timing is concerned, this can be a tough one because every car/motor/set up is different. Normally this would be determined by use of a dyno, but people street tune all the time with no dyno tell them anything.

A general rule for for boosted timing to be safe ( in your situation, with lower boost and power levels) would be reduce timing by .75 degrees per psi of boost, then remove an extra 1-2 degrees at the top end for added safety.

Example would be:

10 psi = remove .75 degrees per psi on the tune, then remove an extra 2 deg. on the top cells for added safety. Ending up at 9.5 deg. retarded total from oe map. This is only a general guide that works ok for lower boost/power levels.

Of course when tuning timing without a dyno, you need to make your best effort to listen to the motor for any knock, if you hear any, then you need to remove more timing.

 

nobody asked what fuel he is using..... if its E85 12.8 is still lean but cosnidered pretty safe do too the cooling effects . In youre case im sure youre probably running pump gas in which case 11.5 seems to be a safe zone. YOu arent running much boost but that is def still on the lean side. If you add more boost youre going to lean it out more when its already on the border of being unsafe (if pump is used)

 

Yeah find another tuner that guy has no idea what he is saying. If you want to increase the boost you have to have the car tuned again. Remember that if you add more air you have to add more fuel of it will lean out and then...BOOM! Also why a 60 trim on only 7 psi? You are not using that turbo to its full potential, it performs best above 10 psi. You should be running a 50 or 57 trim turbo.

 

i run 11.5-.8 while in boost. Your 12.8 is really for NA 0inhg.
Your probably maxing out your injectors or the tune is very off.
Also when you up the boost you have to retune, unless you where tuned for higher and dropped it down.

 

Thanks for the replies. Upping the boost has come to a halt as of now since i'm spitting a **** load of oil into my exhaust. No thanks to the tuner for running so ****ing lean

 

oil?? Doesnt have to much to do with running leak. YOu could very well have messed up the turbo oil seals and are pushing oil through the seals and into your exhuast and intake.

Fit the problems with your car then find another tuner and retune.

 

What could cause the seals to fail? I purchased this turbo with 1 yr warranty. Do you think they would still honor this warranty if the seals are blown? I hope so.

 

Take off your oil drain line and make sure it isn't colapsed or blocked, then install a .065 oil restrictor on the feed line if it doesn't have one.

This may solve your problems without needing a turbo rebuild.

Precision makes good turbos, but they are notorious for not warrantying any failures, they always find a reason to blame it on the user, so don't count on a warranty rebuild.

 

I'll do that. I didn't buy it directly from precision.

 

Precision has been warrantying all the 6262's that have been burning oil but they do always blam customer and say oil contamination which maybe in some cases but in most i doubt that. i think because of such a high demand for their newer generation turbos they are letting quality control slip somewhat. still overall great turbos though

 

absolutely. I love the turbo and its power, just.... BAH