before anything, i know that bypassing the coolant that goes through your throttle body isnt new news but i still think its an interesting video with proof instead of people just saying it does cuz we all know people tend to lie more than they tell the truth.

temps before mod averaged at 125 cruising and 130 traffic, and when i leave my car parked for a while sitting and i come back, its at around 145 to 155 and by the way im in LA (pretty hot) (farenheit)

after the mod average temperature is now 85 to 95 cruising, 105 in traffic, and when i come back after car has been sitting, its at max 120 but when i turn the car on it quickly drops instaed of taking forever to drop like before.

http://youtu.be/rX06kqEys_A


theres the vid and now to come to think of it, idk if the hondata gasket is worth the trouble anymore unless its gonna drop my temps to the 70s but idk about that....

how do i know if i actually gained horsepower you ask?
well for one the car physically feels faster, and i had to re adjust the boost by gear by decreasing the boost in 3rd to get traction again, and colder air by the laws of nature gives more horsepwer

ps: i have a stock ls throttle body on my car

 

In for dyno proof

 

Please get a new cam cap seal!!

 

I had this mod on my H22 lude, along with Skunk2 I/M and Hondata I/m gasket. You could grab the C/A/I or intake manifold after driving and they would both be "cool" to the touch. Depending on ambient temp outside it would almost match that feeling. And its a FREE mod haha

 

[QUOTE=Dc4LsTeG;47179644]In for dyno proof[/

nah thats the whole point of this, cheap mod and real results. if i dyno my car thats gonna be at least 80 bucks for 3 free runs just to have on paper what my car already does (waste of money) so i would much rather spend that into actually making my car faster or look cooler lol. and i kno for a fact that it makes more power cuz with the exact same boost level and same everything other than the IATs, on third i can now lose traction at much earlier rpms when before it wouldnt till like 6k rpm now it loses grip around 4800rpm so im pretty sure that means more horsepower.

and yea i got new oem cam seals and cam plug in my room but im gonna wait till May when i gotta take my turbo kit off and bolt my oem parts back on to get it smog tested for 30 bucks !!! beats paying someone under the table 150 for a crooked smog test.

 

[QUOTE=slayer423;47179767]Or it means your tires are getting more bald:D. How does your idle not jump around?

 

[QUOTE=98integralsB18;47179862]basically new tires, and traction bar and lsd. trust i have done alot of school lab experiments and the first thing i made sure was that all that kinda stuff is exactly the same, temp, tires, elevation, street, time of day, same gas station, same amount of fuel, same everything minus the day of the week and IAT.

i noticed that when you plug the second nipple to the right closer the driver on the iacv which is in back of manifold, thats when your idle starts to jump around and humm, and go from like 800 to 1500 and even worse when really cold. check if you have the line from the water pipe to your iacv.

the other reason why its so still and still idles at 1500 when super cold and gradually goes too 800 just like any stock car would, is becuase in the parameters of hondata i raised every little cell in the "idle speed vs coolant temp(stationary)" section by 300 rpm. on my throttle body, i have the little adjustable screw all the way in and never been touched.

 

this is a little off topic but is running water instead of coolant bad at all? i just picked up a stock ej1 and noticed that when i opened up the radiator there was just water.. couldn't really find a clear answer so maybe one of you guys would be able to help me out. thanks.

 

to be honest thats how i think i cracked my sleeves on my first b20 long time ago. i also just had water only in my radiator cuz that was when i didnt know much and let some piece of **** who is obviously in debt and out of bisness today thank god, piece of horse ****. i ran my car with water only and everything should be fine and car will run right but you when you actually race and the water boils up it starts to lose its cooling ability unlike coolant which has a much much higher boiling point. my motor was boosting 7 psi, perfect safe tune, never knocked or misfiried and car never had any kind of problems what so ever till one day when i took it apart my sleeves were cracked!!! and car wasnt smoking for some reason but the crack was there! i used the best oil too and the only thing in my setup that wasnt legit was having pure water in radiator. i also discovered that the water created a load of mess and left a bunch of gunk everywhere.

 

so yea dude, flush that **** with a hose so you make sure the water in you block isnt mixed in either, and put a mixture of coolant and water and just to be safe get one of the special liquids i see at racing shops that claim to lower water temps by 20 degrees

 

so in order to do this to my car and have a normal idle and not have it jump i'll have to adjust it in my tuning software?

 

Thats weird. It would boil if your engine got hot enough (212 deg.), and would freeze your lines when it dropped below 32 deg. if it was pure water. I'd get that fixed asap

 

I did this mod on my single cam set up and my car idles fine.

EDIT: I live in socal, so temps over here arent really frigid at all.

 

also in for dyno results! butt-dynos dont mean crap.

 

hehehe. Frosty weather doesn't help with power if the damn butterfly can't open. What people will do these days.. (Psst.. it's called increase boost pressure just a little..)

Not doubting it works, just don't see the logic.

 

We just did it on my friends civic and his car idled like stock this morning and it was actually pretty cold and raining today. And i think your gonn have to be turbo to actually feel any results unless car was running really hot.

 

Here in LA we never get any real cold weather and ITRs dont come with it if i believe so, and i would just rather raise boost pressure with IAT at 85 to 100 instead at 125 to 140 farenheit when boosting 20 psi on shity 91 pump on a ls.