during install?
I have done this on the only other rear main seal that I've ever done, which was on a kubota tractor (and the seal was actually almost identical in size to the one on my crx)
I was told about this trick by some old farmers, to make the install easier.
they also told me to push grease into the backside of the seal to keep the spring that sits inside the seal from popping out during the install.

I did this on my tractor, and it seems to be working fine.

Just not sure if this is okay on the honda.

Anybody have any experience with this?

thx

 

I've never done that before, and I've never had a Problem with the seal leaking after I've fixed it. Try it and see how it works lol.

 

WD-40 is an old time trick, but grease is better. Ideally you could use oil on the outside of the seal to help push it in, but you should always use grease on the inside of the seal. If you buy OEM seals from Honda they typically come Pre-greased! (At least in my experiences.) Regardless, you don't want to install the seal bone dry; if you do the seal could get torn from the first rotation/installation.

PS - If the spring is popping it off during install, you are doing it wrong.

 

okay, that answers my question
I was worried that the oil would somehow make the seal slip out or something after install.
sounds like I'm good to go.
I'll definitely grease the inside of the seal and crank snout before install

 

hey, I didnt want to start a new thread, as this question is related to my old thread anyways...

the crank snout has a groove worn into it. I imagine from the rear main seal?





the pics may not show it well...but it is there and you can really feel it with your finger.

will this give me a problem?

Also, when I pulled the rear main seal carrier (aluminum dealeo), the black thick gasket that seals along the bottom of it tore off. I appears as if this gasket is part of the oil pan gasket.



I was thinking of glueing it with rtv silicone to the pan, then gooping some "great stuff" sealant on top of it, and then remounting the rear main seal carrier.

thoughts?
Is this thing gonna leak like crazy afterwards?

 

I don't know why you didn't just pop the seal out and pop the new one in. Oh well, yes you should drop the oil pan, install the aluminum dealeo with rtv around the edges, install new rear main delicately, the groove in the crank will only be a problem if you line the lip of the new seal directly up with the groove, so try to offset the difference buy not tapping the new seal in quite as far as the old one was, then install your oil pan with a new pan gasket. Do not follow torque specs for oil pan bolts, just barely grip tight (choke up to the head of your ratchet like you would a baseball bat) them in proper sequence.

I guess since you have a jack under the oil pan, you'll need to hang the motor from the topside in order to drop the pan. Good luck!

 

I actually spent two days trying to get the seal out without pulling the carrier.
I bought a 35 dollar special seal puller recommended by some guy who used to work at a dealer...but no go. I used the sheet metal screw method, but no go.

Turns out from my search on the internet, lots of people are unable pull it without removing the carrier, so I guess I'm not alone.

Well, I think my plan of attack will be as follows...
1,. Install it as best as i can like it is now.
2. If it leaks after everything is put together, pull the engine oil pan and do the gasket.

 

I usually use packing puller/s when I don't remove the seal housing.



Most people don't even know what they are - but it's a tool to take out "rope packing" for gate valves, pumps, ect...

I personally wouldn't RTV it - but your idea isn't a horrible one as long as you accept the fact that it may leak. Just understand that you won't be able to "safely/easily" install the seal before you put the "housing" back on. Then install the seal after it's in... Up to you though.

As stated before you actually are supposed to check the depth of the old one and install the new one the same distance. It will not hurt anything to offset it - just be sure it's even all the way around the housing and it's past the crank flange (obviously).

 

yeah, even after removing the housing, it took me 45 min with a hammer and screwdriver and it STILL almost didnt come out.
I was contemplating using a friggin die grinder to cut it out, it was that bad.
200K miles and original I'm sure...

Ok, I may try as you suggest and install the seal remnant after the housing is in. I will probably leak, but pulling the oil pan later on isnt a big deal, and it leaks anyways so....

I already installed the seal in the housing. I wonder if it is safe to try and move it back out a little?
I'll take a look at it

 

No! Leave it in there now... You kind of backed yourself into a corner. It's going to be difficult to not "pop" the spring and get the studs into the oil pan, the housing on the dowels, and the seal on the crank all at the same time. It's really just best to remove the oil pan unfortunately. You run more of a risk damaging the seal if you try and take it out. Unless you want to purchase another one, see what you can do with what you have. Worst case you have to buy another one or it leaks.

 

yeah, no, I looked at it and would have to pull it out and buy a new one if I wanted to move it in some to clear that groove.
I might still do that...let me think about it
be nice to not have it leak

 

Hey Neva, do you know if Hobo Freight sells those packing pullers? I've had good luck using a screwdriver or this nifty cotter pin puller I have, but I'm always on the look out for any tools that make a job easier/faster.

And, op, sry if it sounded like I was being a dick. I didn't mean to come across that way. Believe me, I've seen plenty of people murder seals removing them and get very frustrated.

 

not at all...I really didnt want to pull that carrier, cause I just knew it was going to cause me more problems...lol
looks like my intuition was correct.
But, I worked on that seal and it didnt budge one iota.
When I finally pulled the carrier, I could then see the inside of the seal and could see that it was still flush/bottomed out in the carrier!!
That ****er was in there.

anyways, I am going tomorrow to get another rear main seal and will set it in a little more shallow into the carrier.

thx for all the advice

 

"crvtectim" - I am not sure as I don't go to Harbor Frieght. I hopped on eBay to see if there were any; they range from $15-$25 shipped and can be found by searching "Packing Puller" and "Seal Puller" (although the seal pullers don't have as many coils). There are also various websites that specialize in pump sales that sell them as well.

 

Ok, good deal. For what's in bold, I just wanna make sure you mean that you'll be installing the new seal AFTER the carrier is installed. I agree with Neva that's how it needs to be done, as you are going to catch major HELL trying to install the carrier with seal without dropping the oil pan. I see that being damn near impossible to do without mangling the new seal's lip or popping the spring out.

Thank you, sir! I'll check it out.

 

I used a wine bottle corkscrew to get my FRONT main seal out, after looking at the tools n3va3vasatisfi3d posted it seems like that might work for you in a pinch as well? Could be wrong, but might be worth a shot if you ever have to do it again.

 

thank you!
I should have re read his post...you cleared it up for me though!
I will install the seal AFTER the carrier is installed.

I'll post up with how it all goes