Finally installed turbo kit today! HElP WASTE GATE WONT LET HOOD CLOSE!!!
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From: Near Pacific Coast Highway
SO today i installed my turbo kit. since i am off FINALLY!
Put everything together (charge pipes.FMIC) etc....and my waste gate is top mount (log style manifold) i cant close my hood.
Any suggestions? is there short waste gates? can i run a pipe and relocate it? if so who sells them?
Put everything together (charge pipes.FMIC) etc....and my waste gate is top mount (log style manifold) i cant close my hood.
Any suggestions? is there short waste gates? can i run a pipe and relocate it? if so who sells them?
SO today i installed my turbo kit. since i am off FINALLY!
Put everything together (charge pipes.FMIC) etc....and my waste gate is top mount (log style manifold) i cant close my hood.
Any suggestions? is there short waste gates? can i run a pipe and relocate it? if so who sells them?
Put everything together (charge pipes.FMIC) etc....and my waste gate is top mount (log style manifold) i cant close my hood.
Any suggestions? is there short waste gates? can i run a pipe and relocate it? if so who sells them?
i dont know of companies, but i do know that they are made. i was going to get one for my gsr boost build, but im working on internals right now
OR you can cut the webbing on the hood. This has been done plenty of times. Some cars it lightly hits still some it doesn't - either way you will be able to close the hood.
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From: Near Pacific Coast Highway
Interesting indeed... Looks like it's Piping for you then. Just ride around with your hood off for now so you can flaunt your new setup.
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From: Near Pacific Coast Highway
Smaller wastegates are made. If you're not running a boost controller, you can also remove the barbed fitting from the top of the wastegate since you only need a pressure source connected to the bottom fitting. That could give you another 1/2" of clearance.
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From: Near Pacific Coast Highway
tried it and it can close with washers on the rear! but that would mean if i removed the barbed fitting i would need a ten pound spring if i wanted to do 10 pounds right?
i used a 10.1psi spring and my max boost pressure was 9.2psi. if you're using a Tial wastegate, i'd go with the 11.6psi or large red spring if you wanted to run around 10psi
Wow now this is just getting out of hand...
You guys really need to read up and RESEARCH... (this has only been covered - oh, a MILLION TIMES) You can "throttle" the incoming boost signal with a valve. You can get fancy and purchase a good name brand Manual Boost Controller or go low end and use a fish tank valve (not recomended)... or obviously anything in between. You don't need to put ANYTHING on top of the wastegate unless you are using an Electronic Boost Controller. Use the side port (make sure all the other side ports are blocked off) and regulate the incoming line. Leave the top port open to atmosphere. Now don't get me wrong, that doesn't mean you can take a 5lbs spring and make it run 50 psi of boost... It's all about making sure there is no spikes no matter what setup you are running. You can use a 5 or 7lbs spring and achieve 10 psi no problem.
You have to understand - while the exhaust is under pressure it isn't like a compressor. Why do you think they are called compressors and turbines? The turbine essentially operates off of flow and pressure differentials help this greatly. Compressors take air and compress them (imagine that) to fit an even more dense charge of air for the engine. Therefore you let more flow to the turbine by not allowing the wastegate to open - thus forcing the compressor to spin faster and sucking even more air into the same given area - hence more psi (Pounds per Square Inch). So restricting boost to the wastegate has the same exact affect as running a larger spring. If you have enough exhaust pressure to open a 5lbs wastegate spring on its own you have MAJOR problems.
PS - This is just the watered down version of explanation - if you still don't understand I can break it down for you even more...
You guys really need to read up and RESEARCH... (this has only been covered - oh, a MILLION TIMES) You can "throttle" the incoming boost signal with a valve. You can get fancy and purchase a good name brand Manual Boost Controller or go low end and use a fish tank valve (not recomended)... or obviously anything in between. You don't need to put ANYTHING on top of the wastegate unless you are using an Electronic Boost Controller. Use the side port (make sure all the other side ports are blocked off) and regulate the incoming line. Leave the top port open to atmosphere. Now don't get me wrong, that doesn't mean you can take a 5lbs spring and make it run 50 psi of boost... It's all about making sure there is no spikes no matter what setup you are running. You can use a 5 or 7lbs spring and achieve 10 psi no problem.
You have to understand - while the exhaust is under pressure it isn't like a compressor. Why do you think they are called compressors and turbines? The turbine essentially operates off of flow and pressure differentials help this greatly. Compressors take air and compress them (imagine that) to fit an even more dense charge of air for the engine. Therefore you let more flow to the turbine by not allowing the wastegate to open - thus forcing the compressor to spin faster and sucking even more air into the same given area - hence more psi (Pounds per Square Inch). So restricting boost to the wastegate has the same exact affect as running a larger spring. If you have enough exhaust pressure to open a 5lbs wastegate spring on its own you have MAJOR problems.
PS - This is just the watered down version of explanation - if you still don't understand I can break it down for you even more...
Clearly there is a lack of fundamental knowledge by the both of you. Everyone should know how a turbo, wastegate, and blow off valve work if they are going to have a boosted setup. How in the world can you say - of if you have a Tial wastegate and you want to run 10psi you need to use this spring... Obviously you lack the knowledge just as much as the OP. clearly wastegate placement has a lot to do with how it will act. Turbos are never a "one size fits all" application. Just because it worked on your setup doesn't mean his will act identically... Oh well - if you need further explanation let me know by saying dumb things - I'll get the hint.
yeah yeah yeah, every set-up no matter how identical you try to make it will always produce different number and there's a ton of variables, blah blah blah. Giving someone a generalized answer to their question doesn't mean they're ignorant of how a turbo and its components work
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From: Near Pacific Coast Highway
there are 45 degree relocation kits... but it seems they are only in europe. but you can purchase em on ebay too... only one ive seen
they're out there for cheap but may not have your wastegate turned the proper direction. i had one of those kits and it didn't work for me at all. call greg at go-autoworks and he can get one made for you. i like them b/c they test fit on an engine first. still, cheaper route may be just to go to an exhaust shop
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