Hi there, Lately I had an issue from my Civic 1992. One morning I was having difficult to start the engine. Just a few times I try to start. it sounds like the not enough battery charge to start the engine. The engine starter sound very weak later. So I just change the New Dry Battery brand Century. After it was done, I start just last about 2-3 weeks as my car running daily a short medium distance. It totally unable to start engine and sound starter weak is after my car left about 1-2 days without starting. I suspect the new battery and try to replace from work shop. But the work shop man tested the battery and left there slow charge for 2 days full. He said the battery tested and good. After that I took back and had it run in my car exact last about 2-3 weeks. Same like whats happen before above listed.


This morning I had my car for wiring man checking. he tested my alternator it was fine 12-14v charging when engine start. while key off, he took off positive charge cable(red) and touch the battery Positive. No Big sparks. He said if there some big spark that means your car electronic component consume power while key off. But That what he told me. He said suspect that this new battery problem. Now I have no idea and don't know what to do. Anyone had this kind of experience? Thank You

 

anyone could help this?

 

So the car starts?

 

car enable to start but cannot leave the car non start at all for more than one day. If do. The car will feel weak to start or no power to start. As I stated above Two mechanic checked. One suspect wiring on suspect battery.

 

The alternator should keep the system voltage at about 14-14.5V, so your alternator may be weak.

Here is the correct way to test for parasitic drain:

http://batterychargerstore.com/what-...tic-drain.html

 

Tighten you batterys negative terminal ground
and the one coming off your valve cover

 

Hello there, thanks for the reply. I'll Try and let you all know.

 

I had a similar problem when i got my cx, and i changed out the battery and starter before i found out that the power to starter and chassis ground to trans were both shot. A quick replacement with amp power wire and all is well. It may not fix your problem, but its something cheap and easy to look into.

 

Hello there, You mean amp power cable could be the problem? Now I just tried this morning what FTNW suggested:

Tighten you batteries negative terminal ground
and the one coming off your valve cover.


I polished some stain and make sure It all 100% connected.
(PS: I had a jump start yesterday. It really pissed me off each time I need to travel)

In the other I also referring RonJ@HT our moderator's post link. What is Parasitic Drain? Guess I need to learn more again.

But thank you all you here for once again

 

keep in mind, Those grounds have to be tightened down insanley hard!

 

hello there. I've been tried what FTNW(Thank You) suggested. After What I did some polish remove stain to the valve cover, chassis and both positive negative charge. I did leave the car non starting at all for 1 day until this afternoon. I'm happy the car started like normal but let's monitoring for few more days. If it still works fine then I guess we found the solution. I'll keep it update and let you all know.

Oh yeah, some times my car show check engine light yellow(quite frequently). could it be cause by this grounding problem? Guess I also need monitoring this as well.


Thank you.

PS: This is the purpose of this forum that give right information and solution.

 

Next time the CEL light comes on, Dont turn your car off and bring it to auto zone. They will check for free as long as your not in california i beleive.

You can check it your self easily, But why go through the hastle when auto zone does it free right ?

 

AutoZone won't pull OBD1 codes.

 

Hey, Thanks for the reply. I live outside US. Maybe I can let mechanic that have the obd1 checking tools to check the problem. I think there will be some charges to pay here. But anyway,Thanks for the suggest again

 

Well if you dont want to pay to have some one do it, just let me know and ill advice you on how to do it your self. its pretty easy.

 

you dont need to have a mechanic check your CEL code because you can do it yourself. follow the link under RonJ@HT's post called "CEL;"

once you are able to get the code bring it back here and someone'll tell you what code it is

 

Sounds llike your alternator might be going bad..

 

Well, my mechanic checked the alternator is still good and working just fine.

Well, I just make an engine start to my civic 1992 this afternoon. Well it started pretty well going and this is day 3.

PS: I'm updating this not try to put this thread up. But because I quite often online.

 

My car can't start this evening, and it start sound's like running out of battery. Man what is the main problem here... Could this be the alternator going bad? I did get check engine light yesterday while driving. But I just ignore it, when I off the engine and start it, the check light never show anymore.

 

Answer:
Test

Before paying money for a new alternator (which I was about to do today), be sure to have the alternator tested. As many people suggest, Auto Zone, and other parts suppliers, will test it for free. You may have bad connections into your alternator...make sure they are secure and free of corrosion. You might also simply need to tighten the alternator belt. A loose belt will also prevent the alternator from charging the battery.

Cable test

Try this: With the vehicle running, disconnect the negative cable from the battery. If the vehicle keeps running, the battery could be bad. If the vehicle dies, the alternator is probably bad. Most major auto parts stores can test batteries and alternators.


Parts store

Take it to auto zone and they can tell you if it is charging full capacity. It is not a fortune teller though.

constantly dead

your battery is there for starting purposes only- once you start the car, the alternator/generator takes over, and runs the cars electrical system (and recharges the battery)- if you start your car and then disconnect the battery, if your alternator is good, the car will keep running. bad alternator and the car will die. note that if your alternator is bad, your car can run off the battery for a while till the battery dies. sure sign of bad alternator = constantly dead battery.

Additional Answers

start the car the remove positive battery terminal if car stalls or idle drops really low alternator is bad

Answer

Take it to auto zone and they will check it out free.

My battery indicator light came on, but the car would still start and the alternator belt was intact. I tested the alternator with a volt meter and sure enough it was bad.

have it tested for free at Auto Zone auto parts

Battery continually going dead. Best thing to do is drive the car to an Auto Parts store and have the alternator load tested.

If you do not have a voltage tester bring it to a repair shop and have them test the alternator. Puts out between 13-14 volts. If under 13 it is probably bad

You can always start the vehicle and disconnect the battery. If it dies, your alternator is the problem. If not something else might be the problem.

start or jump-start the vehicle. Remove jumper cables after it's started. Use a volt meter to find out the voltage at the battery. If it's below 13.5 VDC, the alternator is probably bad. Take it to an auto parts retailer and they'll usually test it for free.


Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you...#ixzz1O7J5hItN

 

Hello there, finally I brought a digital multimeter tester. I unplugged the negative while the battery still contain charge and sufficient to start the engine. I test each couple of hours. The battery last good was v12.53, now the last figure it drop was v12.20. Is this mean that this battery cannot hold the charge properly as it was a new? Thank you

 

What RonJ@HT means by parisitic drain is that there is an electrical problem in the car drawing power from the battery even when the car is turned off. This could be as easy as an aftermarket radio installed wrong, a bad alternator, or as hard to find as damaged wiring. You need to understand how to use a DMM and what the readings mean. It sounds like you have a DMM now. Put it in dc volts test the Batt voltage with car off and with it running. Car not running should be around 12.5v engine running around 13.5-14.5v. if no increase in voltage look into the charging system. To check for parisitic drain set the DMM up to test amps disconnect the neg battery terminal and clip the DMM in line should be under 0.5 amp anything above that you need to trouble shoot the electrical system.