I am considering taking my '92 VX d15Z1 to a Jiffy Lube, Honda dealer, or equivalent place to do a coolant flush and fill. Anyone have any thoughts and experience with these places that offer this service?

Yes I have followed the factory service manual procedure for bleeding the coolant system to a T, but I still have an idle surge. I want to eliminate any doubt in my mind regarding air bubbles, so I can move on to other steps in diagnosing the idle surge.

 

i wouldn't trust the tards at jiffylube to add washer fluid to my car. as far as bubbles go, if you bled the system, why do you doubt it so much? run the car with the radiator cap off, stick a small funnel (1qt) in the hole. fill it halfway with coolant, and turn the car off when it gets to temp/antifreeze pukes out. ghetto, but always works for me.

 

No, don't pay Jiffy Lube to bleed your cooling system. That's a waste of money.

Refocus on testing the ECT sensor because in your other related thread (quote below), you mistook the ECT switch on the thermostat housing for the ECT sensor, which is a 2-wire sensor located below the distributor.

Bring the engine to full operating temperature, unplug the ECT sensor, and then measure resistance across the two terminals of the sensor itself. It should read 200-400 Ohms.

 

qft

 

On all my vehicles, since I live in the bowels of hell (very hot), I like to drill out an 1/8" hole on the thermos stat lip, right next to where it seats. Align the hole on top, and install. Never had an issue since doing that with purging air from the system. Plus if the thermostat seizes up, you get a little bit of water movement. HTH

 

RonJ - I tested the ECT SENSOR at operating temperature, and it read 575 ohms. I checked it a second time to average to two readings, but it again read 575 ohms. You mentioned the resistance should be between 200-400 ohms. Does this point to anything regarding the idle and/or cooling fan circuit?

 

A bad ECT sensor will cause idle problems. Replace it.

Again, the ECT sensor has nothing to do with the radiator fan circuit, which is instead controlled by the ECT switch on the thermostat housing.

 

Replaced the ECT sensor, and at operating temperature it reads 292Ohms. Idle surge continues.

 

any cel? try cleaning your iacv?

 

IDLE SURGE PROBLEM IS SOLVED!!! I installed a new IACV, re-bled the coolant system, new ECT SENSOR (not the switch), and viola. I then set the base idle speed per manual, and test drove. The VX got to operating temperature, and no idle surge. Did I say no idle surge? Yes, no idle surge.

I didn't clean the IACV this time, I replaced it, and surge went away!
~Now, I need to figure out the why the radiator fan doesn't turn on.

 

Rip OFF Lube....don't even bother. If the radiator fan is not coming on, check the thermostat. It may need replacement. To check the radiator fan, disconnect the plug at the thermostat housing and use a short piece of wire to "jump" the two stabs inside the plug. This should make the fan come on...if it is still in good condition.

 

Radiator fan still not turning on. Fan works with direct 12V source, ECT switch is good, coolant fan relay is new. I am thinking that the engine isn't getting hot enough to complete the circuit to the fan. I am going to test the radiator cap tomorrow, and check to see if it hold proper psi reading. Maybe the cap isn't sealing 100% and not allowing the system to get hot enough. Temperature gauge on dash reads just below half-way point, but that doesn't give me an exact temperature.
I will start a new thread with a specific title to this diagnostic to keep subject from wandering.

Thanks all for help thus far, truly an invaluable resource.

 

Also, check to see if both the upper and lower radiator hoses are about the same temperature. A new radiator cap wouldn't hurt either.