i have done alot of reseach on the subject of turboing an h22a4. i know about the open deck and stock sleeve issues. it can all be pretty scary since i am new to turboed cars and all. i have all my parts as of right now for the build except the turbo kit and engine management. i want to reach as close to 400 whp if possible without blowing the engine!

this is what i have,

h22a4 block stock rebuild with 5k on it
mahle gold series 9.0:1 pistons
stock rods
built by magnum machine in chesapeke va.
h22a head ported and polished
supertech black nitride forged high comp valves
supertech titanium retainers
supertech springs
3 angle valve job
skunk2 pro series im with omni performance 70mm tb port matched
rc 440 injectors
no name fpr
no name underdrive pulley

i know i will get some thrashing about the pulley and fpr being no name peices and i may not need or use them, i also know i need a fuel pump and cam gears they are on the list as well. my question is what turbo would be good to get me close to my goal number as well as still be streetable and somewhat reliable? thanks

 

I will let others chime in on turbo sizing. Depending on how the dyno reads where you get the car tuned I think 400whp with the 440 injectors is going to be a stretch.

 

I'd get injector dynamics 1000cc and an in tank walbro. You don't need cam gears. I'd also run the stock fpr before i ran some junk no name fpr.

There are a bunch of turbo options. Your average sc61 would get the job done.

 

yeah i plan on the walbro 255/hr in tank pump, the fuel pressure regulator is actually an obx i didnt know until i just looked at the box it cam in with the shipping paper. is the sc61 just a type of turbo or is it specific to a name brand? i wouldnt plan on using any internal parts made by obx ie cams or anything but what would be wrong with using an obx fpr and obx under drive pulley? also if i dont get adjustable cam gears doesnt that limit my tuner's ability to tune the car 100%? im not sure if the pro's of adj cam gears outweight the price and cons. thanks for your help guys, i have tried posting on vadriven and they is just a bunch of clowns on there for the most part! half the comments are not even about the tech stuff

 

I don't think the tuner will spend any time messing with the cam timing if you have adjustable cam gears considering you are running stock cams and this is a turbo motor; probably won't be worth the time at the power level you are shooting for. What are you considering for engine management.....I have been happy with my s300.

 

400whp on stock rods? i don't see those lasting long. if the motor hasnt been assembled yet then you should upgrade the rods

also, as mentioned above, 440cc injectors will not support 400whp

 

why are you choosing built head over aftermarket rods? I'd worry about the bottom end before springs/retainers/valves

 

Honestly there are alot of things on your list that are not needed to hit 400. But there are parts missing that you will need. I would have at least 750cc injectors and you will need something to tune it all with hondata is great. I would not run stock rods that is asking for disaster. Arp head studs are cheap insurance. Just run the stock fpr. You will need a much better clutch, trust me you will burn a stock clutch in no time. As far as turbo a good t3/t4 could get you there. I would say get the block sleeved and built and wait on the head work, unless you have already done it.

 

well the rods are stock but i have the forged pistons in the block already i dont know why they built the block without replacing the rods, the block has 5k on the fresh rebuild. is it safe to tear it back down to replace the rods with forged or will i have to replace a bunch more stuff like bearings again? also i had the head built about 6 months ago i got a great deal on the stuff all new in packages with the head bare from a guy on vadriven. i have the mahle gold series pistons that dont require the block to be sleeved to run forged, i have followed another thread about those pistons and reliability and it has been said a number of times that the factory frm sleeves are more than capable of handling boost it was just piston ringlands that are weak on the h series. the 440 injectors i have i got in a package deal with the s2 intake mani and the obx underdrive and fpr all for 275 thats why i have them. so from what you guys are saying i deffinately want rods, bigger injectors at this point. i plan on running a moates demon rtp with neptune its the best deal i have found on engine management i can get it with a chipped ecu and conversion harness for only 590!

 

bump, any answers?

 

ok guys update i just ordered and received a 255l/hr fuel pump, precision 1000cc injectors, and i got a p28 with a moates demon installed with neptune license and an aem uego wideband o2/gauge kit so i will be selling the 440cc rc's now. i still have not bought rods and arp head bolts yet but they will be next. i have been talking to the guy that i got the new precision injectors from and he seems to think i will be able to do 450whp with no problem at all on 93 octane, does this sound right to you guys? i am gonna get a cast log manifold because i want to retain ac and ps. also i dont want to run more than 18psi, i am doing calculations to see what turbo will work best for my car from formula's found on junkyardturbo.com i could really use any input as problems you guys are seeing with my setup or possible future issues. i plan on driving the car daily and will be getting matt shue from shuetuning out of richmond va do a street tune because he has the reputation as being one of the best in the state. any feed back would be great thanks

 

I made 299 hp 204tq on 6lbs of boost on a stock h22a4 with BC stage 2 cams
T3T4. .50 AR cold. .63 AR hot. eBay kit

 

 

New setup is bigger n better.

Built block. 88mm bore. Dart m.I.d sleeves

T-70 turbo.

Port n polish

Balancing shafts removed via kazienspeed bs eliminator kit

Ati crank pulley.