turbodan4

Hey you guys seem to be pretty good at determining horsepower levels with certain setups so i thought id throw mine out to see what im probably looking at coming to me thanks
94 Gsr 81.5mm bore stock sleeves
cp 81.5mm pistons 9:1 CR
full race turbo tuff rods
acl bearings
balanced and blueprinted crank
fluidampr or ctr n1 crank pulley(havent decided yet)
stock port head
stock valves
blox turbo cams
dual valve springs titanium retainers
full race cam gears
rev hard intake manifold
havent decided on TB but as long as its port matched to mani
peak boost turbo kit
1000cc injectors
aem fuel rail
adjustable fpr
walbro 255 fuel pump
hondata s200b tuned by jeff evans

I'm thinking decent numbers but let me know what you guys think i have all the drivetrain components boost controller, etc also just wondering about the engine set up thanks guys

urbansi

Well it helps if you tell us the exact trim of the turbo.

And the stock sleeves will play a part in the setup also.

While people have been really pushing the stock sleeves over 600hp, it still worries me.

I would say over 400hp for sure, but its really going to be up to the tuner and how you feel about pushing what you have just put a substantial amount of money into.

So in between 375-450hp, JMO

miyagi

if it's any help for you ... I run a 57 trim .63 a/r garrett t3/t04e (which is the standard peakboost turbo) with an rld-fab equal length mani on my 9.5 c/r 84 mm b16 (1.7L) with a stock gsr head ... it made 410whp 280 tq @ 16 psi on pump gas.... i'm saying that you should be just bumping over 400whp at around 14 or 15psi or so... since you will have the option to rev a little higher if you want and also use the cams and cam gear adjustment to your advantage. It all really depends on how conservative jeff decides to go on the stock sleeve tune ... he's probably going to make it run pretty fat/rich to add extra peace of mind for any potential detonation to save your sleeves ..

I noticed that you're debating between the ctr n1 and a fluidampr.... Go with the fluidampr. Your oil pump will thank you. The ctr n1 pulley is an undampened system, so it might cause some problems due to harmonics and vibration.... especially at higher rpm. Do a search for fluidampr ... there is a pretty big discussion thread about this exact debate ... that should help you make your decision.

crxnj

It would help alot if you told us what turbo you had..But with those injectors and that motor setup Id say you could hit around 560-580whp max..My friend hit 564whp with 1000cc injtectors/w stock fuel pressure with the duty cycle at 76%...

turbodan4

the turbo I'm using currently is the standard peak boost turbo .60/.63 A/R T3/T04
I do want to do the fluidampr the only problem that i see is the fact that it does cost alot of money for the damper. If theres any other suggestions out there let me know I wanna get this thing out on the street.

purpleh22

I didn't see anything on your list about ignition system upgrade but you probably have a coil or system of some sort.
FLUIDAMPR - A well informed techno/theory machinist - engine builder suggested that I stick with a stock balancer. He said that a study he read claimed that the silicon elastomer used by Fluidampr tends to harden when subjected to repeated heat cycles. (engine heating) I've used them before on Chevys but never cut one open after use. - Good Luck!

miyagi

no need for an upgraded ignition really - a lot of people are using stock honda ignition with little to no problems. Sometimes MSD or similar is more problems than what it's worth. I actually had msd while supercharged ... took the blower off, ran into some ignition break-up problems while n/a ... took it off, went back to bone stock ignition and now the car runs perfect while turbo'd.

I suggest using the stock pulley as well .. preferabbly a gsr since it's dampened ... not sure if the type r one is or not, but gsr for sure. If you MUST upgrade, use a fluidampr ... not a civic n1 or another pulley of the same style.

Soccerking3000

eleventy billion...