I am thinking about boosting again next summer on a budget t3 or t3/t4 setup. I have a fresh b18b in right now with about 200 miles on it. New rings, bearings, b16 pistons etc... has about 10:1 compression and the stock LS head.

Anyway. I was considering taking it down again to put on some rod bolts, a better clutch, a block guard (the right way w/ maincap mod etc...), but keeping the stock pistons/rods.

This time its no fmu for me. If i have to I"ll use the SMC or s-afc hack to boost 10 or 11psi, but I'm going to be looking into my money to see if i can stretch the dollar to get a hondata 2b and run more boost.

I've seen a couple people booosting 15psi+ on stock pistons/rods, just wondering if good tuning and the upgrades I've listed would merit trying this at the track, or if I should look into something more.

sam

 

still searching for opinions

 

once more...

 

I boost 15 psi on my stock block b16. No ****. No mods. 10.2:1 compression. It runs fine. I dont drive it everyday like that, but i drive it at 10 psi. At 15 psi it made 349 whp.

 

I'm mainly curious over whether peple think the addition of rod bolts would be beneficial

 

rod bolts will help, but your stock gasket may die anyways. people running 15 psi on stock internals are running a fine line and spent much money on tuning. If you dont wanna spend $ on tuning. May as well say goodbye to your block now. 1 Tank of bad gas at 15 psi....I don't wanna think about it.

tho for 10 psi it shoud be just fine. stock bolts i mean.


[Modified by Turbo E, 2:38 PM 9/25/2002]

 

okay, well a new headgasket is something else to add as well, thats no biggie as I planned to pull the head anyway.

sam

 

Make sure you get the rods reconditioned when you get the rod bolts pressed in, the ARPs deform the rod bore like crazy

 

can you explain what that means?

 

What he means is they will make sure the part of the rod that clamps around the crank is round and within spec after the bolts are pressed in. The shop will know what you're talking about.

I've never blown my motor (in my Honda) yet, but most of them I have seen are from a broken rod, not bolts. Might not be worth the massive effort and the money.

 

well, i was planning on putting together hte block myself, so why not explain it to me

 

LS rods use the same rod bolts as D16 motors, 8mm, and they are pretty weak...it's a good idea to change them out to ARPs, that's what I did with my LS rods going in my motor.

When the ARP rod bolts are pressed in and torqued down, it will distort the bore of the rod...it will be out of round, the machine shop then machines them and checks them until they are perfectly round again. Any machine shop will automatically do this when pressing in rod bolts, if they know what they are doing that is.

 

okay, i guess ill be having a machine shop install the rod bolts then. thanks for hte info, i wasnt aware of this problem. I was aware of hte weak bolts though, as i've seen a couple ls/vtecs here locally throw rods due to to the weak bolts. the rods themselves look pretty strong though. (relative to a d series that is). Not sure on their strength compared to a gsr rod, but I dont think its that much less.

 

Yeah, D-series rods are really puny when you compare them to the LS rods, thats why I'm using them in my motor LS rods are supposedly good for around 300whp or so when tuned properly.

Also, if you need to buy some ARP rod bolts talk to Rocket@hondasaver, he has them for like $39 shipped 2-day thats where I got my ARP rod bolts and ACL bearings

 

isn't the compression higher than 10:1 with b16 pistons in an ls block?

 

well I think i may actually use a gsr head and an inlinepro / cometic head gasket so it doesnt really matter anyway.