Hi,
This is for the 99 accord in the sig. I will try not to use words like "low pedal" or "spongy" and bias your opinion and rather just describe the problem -

First some facts -
- Had aftermarket pads and rotors (probably Wagner) for the last 35-40k.
- About 2k miles ago, new OEM pads and brake fluid replaced(vacuum suck, not line bleed) and rotors resurf'd because they were warped.
- Previous pads even after 30-40k miles on them had a LOT (8-9mm) of life left.
- Rear brake has been adjusted using the praking brake adjuster under the center console.
- Have performed the vacuum leak tests as outlined in the service manual and everything checks out ok.

When I apply the brakes there is quite a bit of pedal travel before the brakes actually engage. It doesn't sink or anything just a lot of pedal movement before anything happens. This is the main problem. Once the brakes engage braking is ok. But sometimes especially when braking slowly (at low speeds in the city or when coming to a stop sign/light gradually) the pedal feels a little rubbery or elastic (not sure if thats the same as spongy). Doesn't feel like it has the bite or the grip and I have to press it harder, but again this is only at low speeds.

So what do you think might be the reason for the excessive pedal travel ? and the softness in the brakes when braking easy. What else could I check ?

Thanks for your help!

 

Have you moved the rear shoes close to the drums using the star wheel?

This star wheel is supposed to adjust automatically, but it has always given me headaches. My pedal has a lot of travel unless I get the shoes close to the drums in the rear. But then it gets out of adjustment quickly so I just live with it.

Maybe the pedal height? There needs to be a specific amount of free play in the pedal so the brakes don't drag, but maybe it way too much and you are not contacting the pushrod quickly.

Still could be air in the system. Bleed, Bleed, Bleed. Bench bleed the master if you have to. Bleed each line, then bleed again. Bubbles have a way of hiding in one line while you bleed the other line.

 

Is that neccessary even after adjusting the brakes using the adjuster on the parking brake ?
although it doesn't 'feel' like play though. When in Park, I can hear the shifter lock click early enough. But does that confirm there is no play to the pushrod ? How do I check this ?

I do want to bleed each line but I am afraid (and probably so are the shops) to break the bleeder screw on the calipers. Its old, rusted and tight - I'd say stuck.

 

He's talking about the foot pedal for the brakes. There's a rod behind the pedal that's going into the master cylinder. Look for an adjuster for the rod length.

 

The parking brake adjustment is just that. The shoes will need to be adjusted using the star wheel adjuster, there should be just a little drag on the drum but able to turn by hand. I would not mess with the adjustment ( if there is one)on the master cylinder rod . Dont be afraid of rusted bleeders . get a 1/4 drive hand ratchet and the correct socket and tighten them before you brake them loose , this tends to make them easier to free up. I would adjust rear shoes and then bleed brakes. Good luck let me know if i can help.

 

Don't start messing around with the brake master pushrod! These never need to be adjusted or messed with. If you start playing around with it your brakes might start dragging when the fluid is warm.

Check the rear shoes and adjust the star wheel. Auto adjusters rarely work from what I've seen.

 

Look in your service manual, there is a specific height for the brake pedal. If my '88 civic had an adjustment then a '91 accord will too. BUT, I'll bow to your guys expertise, you're the ones driving ancient accords.

BTW: Good penetrating oil works very well on those bleeder screws. Not WD-40, something good like this: http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=612

 

Yes, you need to adjust the shoes at the drum. The parking brake adjust does just that, adjust the parking brake. If you bleeder bolts are rusted, chances are the self-adjuster on the rear brakes are frozen as well. I just adjusted my rear drums a few weeks ago. They hadn't moved from where I had adjusted them. Oil them up while you are in there too, it significantly improved my pedal travel.

 

I think the springs that tension the little lever that is supposed to turn the star wheel get worn out. They actually sell a 'self-adjuster repair kit' at the parts store.

And don't plume asbestos dust in the air. Carefully wet down the entire assembly with brake cleaner before actually trying to get any grit and grime off.

 

Pedal height and play do not seem to be the issue.
Looks like the concensus is rear brake adjustment. I will check that out hopefully next week. And also look at doing a brake fluid bleed at the calipers.
I will post back here then. Thanks!

 

I had this problem and it was the master cylinder. If the seals in the master cylinder leak, the pedal will feel spongy and travel to the bottom, but there will still be braking action. Also, since there is leakage, it takes more pedal travel to pick up the pressure.

One way to tell: Air in the brake lines feels like stepping on a balloon, you can slightly ease and push with the resultant braking force being about the same. Leaky seals are more like trying to push something through molasses: if you let up braking will stop, if you keep pushing the pedal keeps very slowly (depending on leak size) down. But, since you lost no fluid the pedal will rise to the top again and work the same way.