need help im buying a motor its already out.
leak down test.
When a cylinder has high percentage of leakage, first check the oil filler cap. Do you hear a hissing sound? If so, you may have pressure leaking by the rings. Is there air escaping out the exhaust? Is it escaping out the intake system? Then a burned valve may be the problem. If two adjoining cylinders have similar low readings and you hear leakage out the other cylinder, then a failed head gasket may be the problem. Being able to pinpoint the exact source of the compression loss will tell you where the problem is; and not just that you have one. This knowledge will greatly assist you in the next step… the repair.
How do you do that with the engine out of the vehicle where it has no wiring harness or electronics connected and cannot be turned over?
When a cylinder has high percentage of leakage, first check the oil filler cap. Do you hear a hissing sound? If so, you may have pressure leaking by the rings. Is there air escaping out the exhaust? Is it escaping out the intake system? Then a burned valve may be the problem. If two adjoining cylinders have similar low readings and you hear leakage out the other cylinder, then a failed head gasket may be the problem. Being able to pinpoint the exact source of the compression loss will tell you where the problem is; and not just that you have one. This knowledge will greatly assist you in the next step… the repair.
How do you do that with the engine out of the vehicle where it has no wiring harness or electronics connected and cannot be turned over?
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be easier to rent one of those small air compressors from home depot or lowes and get the guage set from autozone on the loan a tool program put each cylinder at TDC and follow more than a dozen how-to's on the web. A compression test may tell you if the cylinder makes bad or good compression but it won't tell you where it's leaking if it's bad.
Sounds like it's too much trouble to you and you don't have the funds to buy a motor you know will be trouble free and legit from a reputable source like hmotorsonline.com
lets just say this engine panned out and came back good on either test, would you replace the timing belt, water pump, belts hoses, plugs wires, cap rotor and all the other top end gaskets and other consumable parts it would need? Or, did you consider any of that stuff?
Sounds like it's too much trouble to you and you don't have the funds to buy a motor you know will be trouble free and legit from a reputable source like hmotorsonline.com
lets just say this engine panned out and came back good on either test, would you replace the timing belt, water pump, belts hoses, plugs wires, cap rotor and all the other top end gaskets and other consumable parts it would need? Or, did you consider any of that stuff?
Hey I found this video of someone compression testing engine out of vehicle, doesn;t show how to but shows it on a pallet being turned over. Mind you the wiring harness, accessories, etc are hooked up. This is also good because fuel system is not connected, something you need to disable when doing the test. :30-1:00 of vid, the rest of vid is walk around.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlj0W...layer_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlj0W...layer_embedded
they've already told you how to do a leakdown test. that is more than sufficient to tell you the health of the engine.
if you're dead set on attempting to crank it over though then you will need to have the flywheel, transmission, and starter hooked up. hook the battery up and rig a switch to the starter terminal when you want it to turn over. keep in mind though that the results you get might be on the low side because this test should be done on a warm engine.
if you're dead set on attempting to crank it over though then you will need to have the flywheel, transmission, and starter hooked up. hook the battery up and rig a switch to the starter terminal when you want it to turn over. keep in mind though that the results you get might be on the low side because this test should be done on a warm engine.
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