So I had warped/heat stressed rotors that caused my car to shake when braking. Replaced rotors and calipers. Bled brakes. New Master Cylinder.

Brakes are still soft and my car still feels like **** when braking. I see lines on my rotor on the one side that looks like a brake pad mark (heat stress again) and it doesnt feel right on the pass side front.

Disk brakes in front, drums in back.

My suspension is shitty right now and im driving in NJ, so that could add to it.

Why do my brakes keep failing and sucking so quick? Any ideas?

 

did you bench bleed the MC?

if not, that may be the problem.

otherwise, keep bleeding the brakes. it's the problem that most people have with brakes.

 

did u change the pads

change all the fluid in the lines

 

Would that lead to uneven braking and heat marks on my rotor?

and I did bench bleed the MC.

 

rotors come with a film on them. i take fine sand paper to them.
i would bleed again. make sure your rotor mating surface is clean

 

What are the symptoms does the car pull to one side while braking or still shaking need to know more about the symptoms.

 

If you are dealing with heat marks and such I would check to see if your calipers aren't sticking. Or if only one brake is doing all the braking.

I do not mess with bad brakes (I lost my brakes and I am not going to have that happen again) I replaced my rear brake cylinders which were leaking. While trying to figure out what was going on I replaced the front calipers, rotors, and pads. Still had a problem so I replaced the hoses. Still had a problem, the problem was warped drums that were brand new. I even replaced the MC too.

It still takes three to four times bleeding them to make them feel good. I hope you are following the order RR, LF, LR, RF. Our Honda's are a little different.

 

can you take a picture of what you think is heat marks on the rotor? scoring just happens, its more of an indication of the pad than anything else.

if you had brake wobble before, you might have a lot of pad knock back too due to a loose wheel bearing or something. you should also check for play in your tie rods. the steering is likely loose as well and contributing to wobbly brakes occurring quicker and damaging the rotors.

and dont neglect looking at your rear drums and wheel cylinders. they contribute to bad brake feeling as much as the fronts.


im of the opinion that it doesnt matter which sequence you bleed the brakes. do whatever you want.

 

new pads
new rotors
new drums
new cylinders

bleed out all the old brake oil "till it starts to come out clear" just keep refillig the master cyl

get some brake cleaner and clean all the parts and put some brake fluid on the cylinder b4 u psh it back in with the c-clamp to lube them up

 

Steering is a little loose. How can i tighten this up? I was under the assumption that DX steering racks just all had a little play in them.

Also, im going to bleed them again soon. That should def help a ton.

 

look up "rack end bushing" in the faq. there are also instructions on how to adjust the pinion gear. and determine if your balljoints are good on the tie rods. inner and outer.


your car is over 20 years old now. brake and steering systems need rebuilding.

 

Like they said...don't forget to check your rear brake cylinders. They're a pretty common problem with these cars getting up in age. I've had both cylinders slowly leak and never knew until I took the drums off to find everything inside caked with fluid.

 

Decided to check it out tonight so I ripped off the front brakes and one of my caliper guides was missing the bolt on the end. That could easily cause uneven braking. Got a replacement bolt, put on new pads, and braking is a little bit better but still not good.

I bled the front and pumped the brakes and they were solid. Then I turned the car on and they went right back to being soft. Am i doing something wrong here?

 

never put new pads on used rotors
different pads will give u a different feel so if the car isn't stoping or stoping poorly u have a leak some where

have someone pump the brakes and hold dem, u go around and check all connections,also check if the pedal slowly goes down

power brakes will give u a soft feeling with the old age oem rubber lines

 

did u bleed all the old fluid out the lines front/back old fluid also give u poor results

 

I mean i plan on bleeding a bit more I guess but the instant i turned the car on, the brake went from pretty solid to soft. Before i turned it on it was good.

Brake booster?

 

thats the power brakes

 

it is suppose to do that,

 

ok you have to check for is your brake lines after a while they get dull so and they wear out they tend to expand during braking check your lines check your calipers to make shure they arent sticking because corrosion builds up and cause the the caliper cylinder to stick u can rebuild them but its better off if you buy new ones but if you still have your stock calipers and u think is sticking then change them bleed your brakes start from farthest from ur mc working your way closer bench bleed your mc and make sure there r no brake fluid leak so i hope you fix it if you have any other questions shoot them <----- this way

 

OK well on the way to work today (hour commute, hence my urgency in fixing this), the brakes actually werent too bad. I think what I am feeling is a combo of my blown suspension (new setup coming in today) and possibly steering problems (as was previously mentioned as a possible issue).

As far as steering goes, tie rod ends looked alright. Wheel bearings seemed solid. What else could I examine/check to fix steering issues?

 

rak pinon

 

wait can you tell me more on that because i thought it is perfectly fine to do that

 

Was just about to post on that. Yeah, thats ridiculous. You can definitely put new pads on used rotors, of course as long as they are in good condition.

My todo list:
1) New brake hoses (from lines to caliper)
2) New Rack End Bushing
3) adjust pinion

 

[QUOTE=masterEF;42108463]wait can you tell me more on that because i thought it is perfectly fine to do that[/QUOte

ok when u change pads it is best to put new rotors or get ur rotors shave back flat/smooth this gives it the best performance/no distortion

if u do put new pads on used rotors without shaving those pads are now useless on new rotors

i dont wanna get all technical bt ur braking will be 100 times better with new rotors and pads none of that jerking or minor deflections inda steering wheel

also it is lease likely to pull when u hard brake

 

once u use rotors for a while they are not flat anymore they have those minor line to big lines in them or they just have minor imperfections inda suface which make the pads work harder/wear faster and dont give u the stoping power of properly done brake system.in short there is less contact surface between the rotor and pads

thats why 9* out of ten ppl get that bumpy feeling and side to side movement in there stearing

i dont play with brakes, i have a friend thats with that new pads on used rotors idea wanna know what happened to both his cars?