Q:wiring killswitch to hazard lights
i had this idea because my hazards dont work so the button is just there. and what better hiding spot than right out in the open? but im really useless with figuring this stuff out even though im sure its simple. have searched this a few times but if anyones done it i didnt see it posted.
i dont really like posting this out for public discussion, but even if it did catch on theives turning everyones hazards on looking for switches might be kind of funny.
i dont really like posting this out for public discussion, but even if it did catch on theives turning everyones hazards on looking for switches might be kind of funny.
shouldnt be hard. you would have to figure out if the switch is normally open or normally closed first then you could your starter wire to it in series or parallel depending on what the switch is.
Second statement doesn't even make sense with the first.
you couldnt be more right. i think i was half asleep and on percocets, just had knee surgery, when i wrote that. could run a ground through the switch but thats really no help. an alarm with starter kill relay would be your first option.
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If the hazards do not work, it is most likely because the hazard switch is bad, although it could be because of a blown fuse.
If hazard switch is bad it will not work as a kill switch either, you will also have to keep in mind that the hazard switch is also your signal lights power switch.
Power, [switched] for your signal lights goes through the hazard switch, all the wiring for the hazards and signal lights is the same, [common] the only diff. is the power input to the hazard switch, it is a 12V constant, [hot at all times] for hazard lights and a 12V switched, [hot in run and start] for the signal lights.
There is only one "main" output from the hazard switch, it supplies either the constant hazard light power or the switched signal light power to the turn signal/hazard relay.
That does not mean that the hazard switch can not be used as a "phantom" kill switch, but the switch has to be working. 94
If hazard switch is bad it will not work as a kill switch either, you will also have to keep in mind that the hazard switch is also your signal lights power switch.
Power, [switched] for your signal lights goes through the hazard switch, all the wiring for the hazards and signal lights is the same, [common] the only diff. is the power input to the hazard switch, it is a 12V constant, [hot at all times] for hazard lights and a 12V switched, [hot in run and start] for the signal lights.
There is only one "main" output from the hazard switch, it supplies either the constant hazard light power or the switched signal light power to the turn signal/hazard relay.
That does not mean that the hazard switch can not be used as a "phantom" kill switch, but the switch has to be working. 94
Get a repair manual or some wiring diagrams. You can get pretty creative in a car with momentary switches,clutch switches, main relay switches,fuel pump ground switches, etc.
On mine I wired the horn up to the starter so if a certain button/switch isnt pushed, the horn blares. Dont forget to use a diode or else youll start your car with the horn, LOL.. Im also using the anti-theft feature in Neptune.
On mine I wired the horn up to the starter so if a certain button/switch isnt pushed, the horn blares. Dont forget to use a diode or else youll start your car with the horn, LOL.. Im also using the anti-theft feature in Neptune.
You could use any old switch to control a relay. But you would never run the starter wire through a switch. It would have to be a big high amp switch but that would be stupid.
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