Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Monroe, La, USA
Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
I have a chipped p28 obd1 ecu in a 92 honda prelude with an (i think) 96 jdm h22a. I have a friend that wants to sell me an Ostrich 2.0 setup for 200, give me a free tune, hook it all up, resocket it if needed and whatever. My question is this: Is that system even worth having? Should I do it or what. Oh, he uses ectune to do the tuning work. I have the software for ectune and hondata already. Does anyone know if the hondata software will work with the Ostrich? Lemme know thanks!!
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
I'm pretty sure the ostrich will work with both of them
But I think you will have to purchase a tuning license with both of those programs.
Whereas tuning with CROME would be free.
But I think you will have to purchase a tuning license with both of those programs.
Whereas tuning with CROME would be free.
Thread Starter
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From: Monroe, La, USA
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: portland, Or
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
My ostrich 2.0 works flawlessly for me.... I have a p06, that I chipped to a p72, and I use the ostrich 2.0 as a permanent "chip" for my ecu
I have the Hulog datalogger and use CROME pro... you need pro to use the datalogging feature.... the hacked crome pro doesn't work.... so I paid for pro.. I hate buying programs... but this one was worth the money, to me....
with the ostrich 2.0 you will be able to load any basemap you want... edit your map make changes in "realtime" (so if you increase your idle on crome.... your car goes vrooooom immediately)
this is what I can do with the ostrich 2.0....with car running, I have my laptop running CROME Pro, and have the Hulog, and Ostrich plugged in via USB...... once I start datalogging, I could have the program auto adjust the fuel maps as I drive in "realtime".....I have done this a couple of times on long drives..., and it runs sweet after the trip.... the sky's the limit... I swear by this thing...
you can get them new for about $240
I have the Hulog datalogger and use CROME pro... you need pro to use the datalogging feature.... the hacked crome pro doesn't work.... so I paid for pro.. I hate buying programs... but this one was worth the money, to me....
with the ostrich 2.0 you will be able to load any basemap you want... edit your map make changes in "realtime" (so if you increase your idle on crome.... your car goes vrooooom immediately)
this is what I can do with the ostrich 2.0....with car running, I have my laptop running CROME Pro, and have the Hulog, and Ostrich plugged in via USB...... once I start datalogging, I could have the program auto adjust the fuel maps as I drive in "realtime".....I have done this a couple of times on long drives..., and it runs sweet after the trip.... the sky's the limit... I swear by this thing...
you can get them new for about $240
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From: East Coast 506, Canada
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
I have my Ostrich and Hulog boards mounted in my P06 case (converted to P72) Works flawlessly with eCtune.
Plug the usb cables into your laptop from each piece of hardware. Open the tuning software and set it up to recognize your hardware configuration. There are settings in the software to identify what hardware you have hooked up.
Did I make that sound too easy? Well honestly it is that easy. If you do the research & spend the money on a proper hardware and software setup.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 57
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From: Monroe, La, USA
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
My ostrich 2.0 works flawlessly for me.... I have a p06, that I chipped to a p72, and I use the ostrich 2.0 as a permanent "chip" for my ecu
I have the Hulog datalogger and use CROME pro... you need pro to use the datalogging feature.... the hacked crome pro doesn't work.... so I paid for pro.. I hate buying programs... but this one was worth the money, to me....
with the ostrich 2.0 you will be able to load any basemap you want... edit your map make changes in "realtime" (so if you increase your idle on crome.... your car goes vrooooom immediately)
this is what I can do with the ostrich 2.0....with car running, I have my laptop running CROME Pro, and have the Hulog, and Ostrich plugged in via USB...... once I start datalogging, I could have the program auto adjust the fuel maps as I drive in "realtime".....I have done this a couple of times on long drives..., and it runs sweet after the trip.... the sky's the limit... I swear by this thing...
you can get them new for about $240
I have the Hulog datalogger and use CROME pro... you need pro to use the datalogging feature.... the hacked crome pro doesn't work.... so I paid for pro.. I hate buying programs... but this one was worth the money, to me....
with the ostrich 2.0 you will be able to load any basemap you want... edit your map make changes in "realtime" (so if you increase your idle on crome.... your car goes vrooooom immediately)
this is what I can do with the ostrich 2.0....with car running, I have my laptop running CROME Pro, and have the Hulog, and Ostrich plugged in via USB...... once I start datalogging, I could have the program auto adjust the fuel maps as I drive in "realtime".....I have done this a couple of times on long drives..., and it runs sweet after the trip.... the sky's the limit... I swear by this thing...
you can get them new for about $240
How do you convert from say a p28 to a p72 or can you?? I really think i wanna keep my secondaries. Altho i got SPANKED but the guy that im getting some parts from the other day and he completely removed his secondaries all together. Just straight took that whole segment out lol
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: portland, Or
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
How do you convert from say a p28 to a p72 or can you?? I really think i wanna keep my secondaries. Although i got SPANKED but the guy that im getting some parts from the other day and he completely removed his secondaries all together. Just straight took that whole segment out lol
or just get the euro manifold........... it's one of the next things on my "to do list"
Xenocron Tuning Solutions
Adding OBD1 ‘Style’ IABs Instructions
What are IABs?
IABs are the butterfly valves (similar to a throttle body valve) that are installed in Stock H22 and GSR intake manifolds. They are activated electronically/vacuum assisted to open/close at specified RPM points by the ECU.
They effectively change the runner length of the intake manifold by opening a different set of runners when it is appropriate to do so from a long to a short runner to optimize flow through the intake manifold and speed up the air going into the motor. This is good for N/A vehicles as well as Boosted cars but the effect will not be as noticeable as you are forcing air in on a supercharged or turbo car.
What are the Differences in how IABs are activated?
With OBD1 Vehicles, (generally 92-95 year Civic/Integra, some earlier Accord/Preludes) IABs are activated by sending a GROUND signal out from the ECU, to the solenoid which ALWAYS receives 12 volts. This ground completes the circuit and causes the solenoid to activate the IABs above a certain RPM and then deactivates it when it falls below that point (basically).
With OBD2 Vehicles, (generally 96+ years) IABs are activated when the ECU sends 12 volts to the solenoid from the ECU. The solenoid has a constant ground and received the 12 volts to complete the circuit.
How do I make my Vehicle using an OBD1 ECU Activate the IABs?
OBD1 Vehicles
If your vehicle is already OBD1, all you need to do is wire a single wire from OBD1 Pin A17 to one side of a 2 Pin connector (that connects to your IABs) and the other side to 12 volts constant. Read the OBD2 method for more info. The process is basically the same.
OBD2a/OBD2b Vehicles
Many people are now adding IAB control to OBD1 ECUs like P28 ECUs or other converted OBD1 Civic/Integra ECUs and using those ECUs in OBD2a/b vehicles by using a conversion harness. The simplest method in these ECUs which mimics the OBD1 GSR (P72) and H22 (P13) ECUs is to send GROUND from the ECU.
1)If you put an OBD1 ECU into an OBD2 vehicle though, you have some more work to do before you can activate the IABs via the ECU
2)Find the 2 wire connector that plugs into the IAB solenoid. This is the same type of connector on the VTEC solenoid. Generally it will be located underneath or on the side of the stock intake manifold
3)Next figure out which wire is connected to your ECU. You can do this by finding a wiring diagram for your particular car and looking at wiring colors. The universal way is to use a continuity tester. Take one side of the continuity tester and touch it to ECU Connector A26 (OBD2a) or B16 (OBD2b). You can also test on your conversion harness as well using OBD1 Pin A17. Next touch either one of the pins on the IAB plug until you get continuity. Remember this wire and leave it in the plug as is.
4)The other wire should be a constant Ground (OBD2 vehicles). We need to change this to be a constant Power (12 volts). To be sure, use a Test Light and make sure this is the ground wire. Cut the wire away from the connector (give yourself some room to play) and tap it into a constant 12 volt source. If you want to get creative you can connect it into the Dead End Plug that always has 12 volts provided to the injectors. This plug is located near the drivers side firewall and is the plug most refer to when installing a resistor box. You can also find any other nearby wire that has a constant 12 volts with the ignition ON but this is the easiest place to get power. Once you have this wired up correctly, your vehicle is now ready to run IABs, OBD1 ‘style’
5)If you ever want to return your vehicle to stock configuration, it may be a good idea to use ‘quick disconnect’ crimp connectors. Always be sure to use good shrink wrap and solder (or better yet, crimp) your wire connections in the engine bay.
6)If you are using a stock OBD1 P72 or P13 ECU, the ECU should activate IABs at the stock RPM. If you are using a chipped ECU as most reading this will be, you can now modify at what RPM the IABs will open the secondary runners using an ECU that can control IABs. You can test this and should feel a slight difference at that RPM.
If you have any questions or feel like I have left something out of this write-up, please feel free to email me at customerservice@xenocron.com and give me your suggestions. If you know the exact wire color for your particular car, please email it to me and I will add it to a list to make it easier for others!
How to Install our IABs parts kit in your 1720 or 11F0 OBD1 P05, P06, PR4, P61, PR3 or P28 ECU
1) Install Q17 if not present (goes in directionally, follow other transistors on the board)…writing should face down in pic
2) Install Q34 if not present (goes in directionally, follow shape of white outline) …writing should face down in pic below
3) Remove R135 if present
4) Install jumper wire from Right Hand Side of R135 to Arrow Side of D13
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,399
Likes: 69
From: East Coast 506, Canada
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
The actual EPROM chips that are added to a "chipped ECU" are physically all the same. It's the program burnt/loaded onto the chip that changes (ignition & fuel maps). But if you are are asking what is the difference between the ECU's. Here is an Example, P13 is a VTEC ECU with IAB & knock circuits. A P28 is a VTEC ECU without IAB or Knock circuits. The other difference is that they both have different fuel & ignition programs on the chips to control the specific engine.
Read some of the TECH articles on this website, http://www.xenocron.com/techcenter.php
or
http://forum.pgmfi.org/ This site also has tones of info on the Honda PGM-FI system. It get's into the nitty gritty of how it all works. It gets into the different versions of main boards that are in each ECU. They are the real difference in ECU configuration. Depending on what version of main board that is in the ECU. That will determine what circuits can be added and/or removed. (VTEC, IAB)
Here the reference to 1720 or 11F0 are the versions of main board that can be found, and altered, in those particular OBD1 ECU's.
Read some of the TECH articles on this website, http://www.xenocron.com/techcenter.php
or
http://forum.pgmfi.org/ This site also has tones of info on the Honda PGM-FI system. It get's into the nitty gritty of how it all works. It gets into the different versions of main boards that are in each ECU. They are the real difference in ECU configuration. Depending on what version of main board that is in the ECU. That will determine what circuits can be added and/or removed. (VTEC, IAB)
Here the reference to 1720 or 11F0 are the versions of main board that can be found, and altered, in those particular OBD1 ECU's.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 103
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From: portland, Or
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
you can only go so far without chipping, or (modifying you ecu etc.).... when you have the control over your ecu.... there is no limit (basically) to what you can do....
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,399
Likes: 69
From: East Coast 506, Canada
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,360
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
eCtune is the only actively developed product that supports Ostrich. Crome and Hondata RomEditor 3/4 are outdated.
If you want an even better solution look into the Demon with the NepTune RTP System or eCtune RTP, or the Hondata S300.
If you want an even better solution look into the Demon with the NepTune RTP System or eCtune RTP, or the Hondata S300.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,734
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
Ostrich works wonders once the maps are on it you dont even need the laptop plugged in for it to work, and making real time adjustments is priceless. only pain is you need to buy a stand alone datalog cable and chip burner
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: IN MY rex
Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
its called a hulog bro and now you don't need a chip burner.
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From: North of LA
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Re: Ostrich 2.0 Is it worth having?
Last edited by kurtdaniel; Jul 12, 2010 at 06:32 PM.
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