d16z6 greddy turbo overheats
95 del sol with 200k
ran great for 2 years i had it
just installed greddy turbo kit 4 days ago running 5psi
running on stock p28
FMU 12:1 disk (yes i know i need a tune)
OBX missing link
it ran really good for 3 days and today it started to overheat after couple hard pulls, on normal driving shifting around 3k its fine but if i start shifting at +5k it overheats
pulled the spark plugs they were cloudy white i guess im running lean from FMU and gaped them down to 30
did compression test
cylinder 1 185
cylinder 2 180
cylinder 3 170
cylinder 4 175




timing was @16 got it down to 14
what could be the problem that it started overheating all the sudden
running lean from FMU?
flush the colant and add 50/50?
heat wrap down pipe?
stock half size rad with oem fan?
FMIC is pretty huge and blocking radiators?



sorry for iphone pics...help or advice welcome
ran great for 2 years i had it
just installed greddy turbo kit 4 days ago running 5psi
running on stock p28
FMU 12:1 disk (yes i know i need a tune)
OBX missing link
it ran really good for 3 days and today it started to overheat after couple hard pulls, on normal driving shifting around 3k its fine but if i start shifting at +5k it overheats
pulled the spark plugs they were cloudy white i guess im running lean from FMU and gaped them down to 30
did compression test
cylinder 1 185
cylinder 2 180
cylinder 3 170
cylinder 4 175




timing was @16 got it down to 14
what could be the problem that it started overheating all the sudden
running lean from FMU?
flush the colant and add 50/50?
heat wrap down pipe?
stock half size rad with oem fan?
FMIC is pretty huge and blocking radiators?



sorry for iphone pics...help or advice welcome
Last edited by russlan44; Jan 13, 2010 at 01:32 AM. Reason: pics
check coolant for having oil in it, and vice versa. def not recommended to run a motor like that without proper management. I have seen cars get hot due to a large 4" down pipe being too close to the radiator.
as long as your stock rad and fan are in good working order, as well as thermostat it will cool that motor even if it was making way over 300whp, which its not.
how is your coolant level?
do you loose any coolant regularly or while in boost?
as long as your stock rad and fan are in good working order, as well as thermostat it will cool that motor even if it was making way over 300whp, which its not.
how is your coolant level?
do you loose any coolant regularly or while in boost?
i checked the coolant and added some, drove around hitting boost couple times and it started to over heat so i stopped opened the hood and coolant was coming out from res. tank.
Blown head gasket wouldnt my compression come up low?
Lifted head on 5psi? and is head studs that weak or they stretch out?
Blown head gasket wouldnt my compression come up low?
Lifted head on 5psi? and is head studs that weak or they stretch out?
I've lifted the head on stock Z6 with Greddy kit @ 5psi...
Twice, two different engines.
Compression looks normal because the head lifts under boost only.
Twice, two different engines.
Compression looks normal because the head lifts under boost only.
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tx ill be looking into ARP studs and H.G. oem HG or aftermarket? like cometic?
And car will over heat if head lifts in boost?
And car will over heat if head lifts in boost?
Last edited by russlan44; Jan 13, 2010 at 11:43 AM. Reason: info
The car isn't actually overheating - the head bolts stretch allowing air into the coolant. Air in the coolant can get a lot hotter than the coolant itself, and if the bubble finds its way to the temp sensor, you'll see the needle jump.
If you see the needle move to hot, and rapidly back down to cold... well, the actual coolant can't change temps that fast, so it has to be a bubble.
If you see the needle move to hot, and rapidly back down to cold... well, the actual coolant can't change temps that fast, so it has to be a bubble.
The car isn't actually overheating - the head bolts stretch allowing air into the coolant. Air in the coolant can get a lot hotter than the coolant itself, and if the bubble finds its way to the temp sensor, you'll see the needle jump.
If you see the needle move to hot, and rapidly back down to cold... well, the actual coolant can't change temps that fast, so it has to be a bubble.
If you see the needle move to hot, and rapidly back down to cold... well, the actual coolant can't change temps that fast, so it has to be a bubble.
for sure ditch the fmu and get a tune. i had a gsr turbo running on a fmu and it ran like *** till i got it tune. after the tune BUTTER! but yes def get arp's regardless to be on the safe side you will not be dissapointed in the long run with a blown motor! nice car man good luck!
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