Sorry, I've read the auto to manual swap thread and still have a few questions. First, do i need a different ecu for the manual trans? Do I need to have my wheels aligned after I do the swap? and is the line going from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder metal or rubber? thanks.

 

- Yes
- Probably wouldn't hurt, I'd do it as a precaution but you're not having to undo all the suspension components so I don't see how it would affect it too much.
- Most all those lines are rubber, I don't know specifically on your car however

 

alrighty, good to know. What do the manual and automatic ECU's do differently? Also will I be able to reuse my center console that houses the shifter?

 

The automatic ecu stores all the information for the auto, like TCC, shift points, and all that stuff. If you have a 96 or 97, you have OBD-2 so you have a seperate TCU (trans control unit) and the ecu is programmed to "talk" with the auto ecu, so you have to get manual ecu either way.

Everything but the actual auto shift lever can be reused for the center console.

 

Interesting to know, I have a '90. What is the other little box next to the ecu under the kick plate that had several harnesses also?

 

The other little box is the TCU (tranny control unit) when you do the swap, you can just remove it and leave behind the un plugged harness. The manual doesn't have a TCU.

 

Ok, I've gotten a yes and a no about a new ECU, will I need a different one or not? Thanks.

 

it is possible to run the auto ecu with a manuall yes.....it will throw a CEL light though. And not run very good. But yes you can run the auto....like if you were waiting to go get the manual ecu or something for a few days or something. but it should not be permanent or anything like that. you will need the manual ecu to have the car run correctly.

 

I've been running my auto ecu for over a year, and I still get 30+ mpg. I rigged up my vtec so that the ECU always thinks I'm doing 35 mph. Without that, vtec wouldn't work since the ECU knows the car is stopped. The only problems with that is the CEL, D4 constantly flashing in my face, and when I tap the throttle, the rpms stay up for a while instead of dropping instantly.

 

not to hijack this thread or anything but iam in the same boat.. I read the how too in faq's but there was no pics to help sort things out.. Iam looke to swap out my auto cause it sucks and I want to boost later down the road.. Looken for a write up along with pics.. Is it a pretty straight foward process or not?

 

Ya, I had the same problem when I read the post in the FAQ's. I got a pretty good idea how it all works, but still wasn't completely sure. Ok, good to know, just another $35 part on my wrecking yard list. Also another question, and I'm sure this depends on a lot of factors, but how long of a job is this usually? From the reading, I assumed a day, two at the most if there are lots of breaks.

 

this swap faq with pics is on honda society....

and you should be looking at a fun weekend with some buddys and you can knock it out.

 

Okay, so some more questions. couldnt find any info on honda society but found a little information on cb7tuner and mycb7. First, I know that I need the brake and clutch pedals, but do I also need to swap out the gas pedal? And also I know that I need the trans mount on the passenger side fender well, but is there any bracket parts I need for the front or back?

 

Don't need to swap out the gas pedal. There shouldn't be any other brackets that you'll need.

 

Alrighty, thank you.

 

Sorry, another two questions. Are the driver and passenger side axles on a manual transmission the same length, and interchangeable? Also, does the piece with the wheel studs in it supposed to just slide off after you take the four bolts that connect it to the brake rotor and the axle nut off?

 

The passenger side axle is the same, but you have to use the 5 speed intermediate shaft and axle for the drivers side.

 

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^^^What???^^^

 

Yet another question... I was taking the parts that I will need for my swap off of another car and noticed two switches at the top of the clutch pedal assembly. The wires going to the switches go into a big harness, I just wanted to know if not having those switches plugged into anything on my car would be a problem?

 

At least one above the clutch checks to see if it's pressed or not to turn on the car

I would imagine that's discussed in the FAQ is it not?

 

Yeah one of them is the safety switch that makes you have to push the clutch inorder to start the car. Thr other is the cruise control switch so it shuts off cruise control when you push the clutch. Read the Auto-5 speed swap thread in the FAQ'S it explains what to do with them.

 

The line that goes across from the clutch resevoir to the slave cyl is metal then it connects to a rubber hose then into the tranny housing.

 

Alright thanks, Ive read through the faq, but must have missed that, I will have to check again.

I already got my hydraulic line off of another car.

 

I read through it again, and noticed that there are a few things different because it is based on a fifth generation accord, and mine is fourth. I did read the part about the switches, but didnt fully understand it, sorry I'm not that intelligent when it comes to wiring.