Setup is below, on the way to work this morning, i gave it some gas and the motor was slightly accelerating but bogging down during the acceleration. Sounds like babababababa. Definete performance loss. I have done nothing to it lately and its been reliable for the last 2 yrs now.

Preliminary diagnostic, No gas leak, problem isnt noticable until gas applied, vacuum is fine 20 at idle, air/fuel ratio reading tad high, engine temps fine.

Unfortunetly im stuck at work for the next 10 hours.;( If your car is sick does that qualify for sick leave? haha.

 

Sounds like worn out plug wires to me.

 

Possibly. To find out if the wires are still good or not, use an ohm meter (multimeter) and check the resistance between one end of the wire and the other end, check all 4 wires, check also the coil one if you have. You can also check spark plugs, distributor cap and your distributor coil... (all that with the engine off, and cool.... preferably, you should perform the testing while the engine hasn't worked... say.. in the morning of a weekend or something).

 

so this symptom sounds like a misfire in one or more cylinders?

 

To find out if you have a misfire or not.
Invert the wires of one cylinder and another... if the engine seems to struggle... you know that you don't have a misfire. But... if you pulled a wire out, and the engine doesn't change at all the way it performs... then you know if you have a cylinder with a misfire.
Then you can (with the engine off) remove a spark plug and switch from one of another cylinder.. and see if the problem now switched to the other cylinder... which then, makes the spark plug be the cause of the misfire, and not the wires.

 

If your car is bucking mildly but noticeably, it could be one cylinder. If it's bucking wildly and bogging down it could be more than one. The wires are the first thing to check. Check the condition of them, check for corrosion on the contacts, obviously check to make sure one hasn't worked loose somehow. Sometimes if wires are completely shot you can look under the hood in darkness and see the current loss as electrical sparks jumping off of the wires. Those wires carry significant juice. They must be in good condition to put all the juice where it belongs and each cylinder needs that right amount of juice to fire correctly. Good luck.

 

I will check the wires, they are aftermarket accel's but ill report back with the verdict haha.

 

Heres the update, while bogging or stumbling, air/fuel ratios are getting leaner 15-16's. Pulled out plugs, feel very dry, and not smelling fuel like usual. Spark test was great and compression are at 210, so im thinking fuel prob, I am thinking fuel pump. Its a Tre Performance high flow not name brand. I hear it wistlen at idle so works. but dunno how strong yet.

Curve ball though: The problem is really bad on my stock plugsngk zfr5f-11. However, on the ngk Iridium bkr6eix-11 plugs i had, it ran alot better but still stumbled at higher rpm. I have 2 pics the plug on the left is the stock plug. Look at the sut line on the arms of both plugs. the stock plug use to look like the one on the right.

IMO: Made the hotter iridium plug is burning the little amount of fuel its getting better then the stock plugs?

HONDA GURUS PLEASE HELP.

 

If your car was misfiring a CEL would definitely have registered. Could you please tell me your engine management setup?

If your certain your pump is good, the strainer could be the issue if not installed right.
Other obvious options would be the fuel filter, rail, regulator and then finally your injectors could be getting clogged or stuck closed/receiving an intermittent signal at higher rpms.

An unlikely problem, but not ignorable would your MAP sensor. Do you have a fuel pressure guage installed on the car?

 

EGR Clogged by any chance? - could be well off the beaten path but surely it would be better than shelling out for a new fuel pump??

 

i am using AEM, re-uploaded base map and same problem. no fuel pressure guage. I don't think the fuel pump is good if all 4 of my plugs are pretty dry.
EGR I seen was on the list to check, but why would the problem get so much better with the iridium plugs? know what i mean? I reinstalled the stock plugs and the problem worsened. this is wierd!

 

*Bump* gurus please help.

 

Your plugs are supposed to be dry. Is the gapping correct on the plugs? Too large a gap and 10PSI will extinguish the spark before firing can happen. It's happened to me.

Other option since you're on AEM is to datalog your car while driving and then look at your fuel curve and ignition timing when this happens. That will yield a clue. Can you datalog?

Do you have an adjustable FPR? if not then that could be the problem too. and like stated earlier EGR is possible but i don't see how since your pushing FI.

 

thanks man for taking time to help, I found the problem! Rotor cap, I just replaced it 9 months ago. So i kinda threw it out, I spent hours playing with everything and it turns out to be a rotor cap. I have the data log and i recorded it but don't know how to pull up the fuel and ignition part.

 

Glad you resolved it on the cheap. Was it the distributor rotor or the distributor cap?

 

Update: Accel Spark plug wires was the culprit i figured that out yesterday, sorry about that. But problem is fixed now.