I have a h23a1 block, h22a4 oil pump with the two crank position sensors.
I have a obd2 a4 cylinder head with the fixed dissy.

I had a h22a4 in the 98 civic and the harness was all wired up and working. i changed nothing.
just put a h23 block in and got a tps code and crank pos code. not sure why. rewired the tps direct, so that code is gone. trying to figure out what to do about the crank position code. back probed at the plug, the hertz are right on, so the sensors are working...
I dont remember how its all wired up from when i first put the h22a4 into the civic. that was 4 years ago.

do i have to use a obd1 style dissy to steal signal? or do i just rewire the ckp direct to the ecu?
Im confused as to why i got either code. tps and crank pos. didnt change anything other then block. i even kept the h22a4 oil pump and sensors. grrr

 

Will a crank pos code make the car act like its in limp mode? cut out at like 3200rpm?

 

rewired the damn crank sensor, still a code and im getting the right hertz out of the damn thing.

I see many people have an issue with the h23v not reving past 3500 and back firing.
gah! what did i do?
all i changed was the block, used all the parts off the h22.
timing is right on too.

I have had cars before that had a crank light, yet would still rev up past 3500.

any insight?
anyone?

 

wow, nobody had any clues?

Ok, so im an idiot! When i was back probing the crank sensor, i was getting the right herts from the TDCM but then saw i had the Vantage on the wrong frikin wires, so the herts i was getting was from the TDCM and not the CPS. Backprobed the correct wires and got a real shitty signal. a few hertz all brocken up on the Vantage scanner.

So either I droped the harness of the Crank Pos sensor and cracked the internal magnet or... I left out # 18. could that have cause the pickups to be not in line and giving a funny signal or frequency?

the pic is kinda small, #18 is the spacer that would go behind the Crank gear itself.

someone has to have had a simillar issue before.

 

pull the lower cover, take the two sensors out and resistance test them with your Vantage. Is it broken? the Vantage will tell you what resistance it should have.
i dunno, thats odd

 

yea, vantage says its good.
I left out that washer behind the crank, thats gotta be my problem, so its all apart and im putting in that washer. that should line up the pick-up on the sensor and give a better signal. I hope!

 

OMFG I tested that sensor, crank and cylinder, both little sensors pass the resistance test. I put that washer in behind the crank, STILL getting a damn Crank position malfunction code, WTF how is that possible?

I have all the right parts on the block, right timing belt, water pump, crank gear etc.

Even wired it direct to the ecu, tried many different ecu's, all of which say the same thing, Crank Pos.

Anyone have a clue what could be happening?

HELP! lol I gotta get my 12sec pass this year. Sat is the last day at the track.

 

**** it!
Guess ill go obd1, this ****in sucks.

I hate being stumped. and this is the first time I have ever thrown in the towel.

the stroke change should not mess with the goddamn crank position sensor!


*raises white flag*

 

It's probably too late for you, but for others searching for help, here you go.


You should be using the #17 Crank Pulley, not 18. It is how the Crank sensor reads if it is at TDC.

Also, You MUST use the correct balance shaft pulley, because the Crank sensor reads that one too. And the car might not start without it. Just a heads up