Ive had a few years experience with turbos and every setup i have ends with oil in the charge piping. My recent setup included a new GT2871R turbo and after a year i ended up with oil in the charge piping. My first thoughts were too big of an oil send line or too much oil pressure. I plan on building a new setup in a couple of months containing an SC61 and i dont wana blow the oil seals in this one either. This oil blow by issue has always been a stupid thing that happens. Heres what im gona use:

1.) -3AN oil send line
2.) -10AN return line with MOROSO B18c1 oil pan and tap
3.) Restrictor?

Anything else or change something?

 

have u used a restrictor on your past setups? that might have been your problem

 

You should of had a restrictor on your 2871R, your SC61 will be fine with a -3 and no restrictor.

 

on the 71r i had bought a restrictor from apt turbo.com and maybe it wasnt small enough to restrict oil. Should i maybe have a oil pressure gauge inline with the feed line? How much psi do i want going into the turbo? From what i read in the past, the psi off the tap in the block is somewhere around 60-80 psi under load. Correct me if im wrong here.

 

I see close to 100psi according to my gauge reading right where my sandwich adaptor is, I had a .035" restrictor and never had an issue other than a piece of RTV clogging it and taking out my new $1200 Turbo...lol

 

turbo timer
kinda of a pain but worht it.

 

^^^ How is a turbo timer relevant to anything being discussed in this thread? This guy is talking about blowing seals from excess oil pressure not cooking turbo's from shutting down hot, which IMO is not too much of a big deal unless you just got done running hot laps around a track or were just boosting for 1 minute flat out.

 

o sry my b
just read the title, thought it was all around life saving. TURBOS

 

thanks for the advice. Does the SC61 come with a built in restrictor?

 

who comes into a thread and posts something just by only reading the title? ha to turbo timer.

 

Not sure I know you have to run an additional restrictor on the GT and BB stuff, the one built in is not enough.

 

i wouldn't use a restrictor on a journal bearing turbo. i don't have one on my sc34 and -3an line and its been fine for 70k miles.

 

if im asking too many questions, im sry. But when it comes to journal vs ball bearing centers, why does one require a restrictor and the other doesn't? Jw

 

Because the ball-bearing cartrdiges require 22psi of oil pressure that is CONSTANT, since its job is simply to lubricate the turbine shaft, and not have the dual duty of cooling AND lubrication..

Ball-bearing cartridges have a bit more friction than the journal bearing system, in which the shaft needs that extra oil for it to float on The restrictor allows a consistent amount of lower oil pressure. That lower amount of oil lubricates, while the turbine shaft is balanced on the ball-bearing thrust bearings.

 

-3 feed, -10 return that is STRAIGHT, no 90's on the return. no restrictor.

 

^^ Yessir

 

Unless he had a Honeywell engineer inspect his turbo, that means ANY reason that may have killed the turbo. If he's running a restrictor, the next easiest way to kill a turbo is by allowing the oil to "coke up", or basicly boil away after turning of their engine while the turbo is still too hot. Given that a restrictor will restrict both pressure AND flow, and that Honda motors generally run relatively high oil temps, turbos on Hondas generally will not cool as well as they should. To give you an idea, most oil break down from 240-270F. A stock b16 (w/o oil cooler) can see oil temps of 220-230F after a mild, extended cruise. Let it pool in a CHRA that has a 1000F turbine housing touching it...guess what happens.

Long story short, you can ruin the mechanical seals if you let them coke up, as well as plug up oil passages with burned oil residue. I'm talking about the piston rings most turbos use on both the hot and cold side, around the shaft itself, not the static rubber seal that seals the perimeter of the thrust bearing "compartment".



Bottom line if you run an oil-cooled turbo, it is manditory to let your car idle down for more than 90 seconds, no matter if you beat on it or not. If you don't have any heat shields, heat wrap, or you beat on it -- 2+ mins.