when my car is at idle i can hear it almost missing but not quite. it will idle normal then it will like hicup and then idle normal. just seems weird to me and wanted some ideas. the motor is a b7 block z6 head new plugs and wires. always use 93 octane. maybe and injector or ignition timing?

 

bump

 

i had this problem but it was my wires. try ur cap, rotor or coil

 

maybe distributor, idle air control valve, did you recently switch motors or harnesses? could have some plugs mixed up..

 

exhaust leak

 

my car does it too, but it gets 42 MPG and runs great so i dont bother with it.

lol

 

well, let me know if you test the ignitor and/or internal coil and one or both tests bad, I have both

 

probably IACV or a small vacuum leak.

 

dosnt matter now hydrolocked the motor tonight after a random storm flooded the roads. went into the turn lane and it was game over. pulled the plugs and it spit out like a gallon of water. threw them back in and it was knocking real nice. i figured the AAA tow for 30 miles was going to be $125 and my motor would still be f'ed or drive the thing till it blew up and get another cheap z6. made it home, kinda started running better towards the end haha it didnt stall at lights but it sounds like a subaru now with about 40 hp.

 

reuse the head. Its still fine. Thats why i dont do CAI's because they can do that.

 

could be your ignition coil is it misfiring or just popping?? if its popping it could be a blown head

 

shiiit.

 

pulled the valve cover it had alot of milky real thick almost like gel crap all over. makes me think maybe i blew the head gasket. drained the oil pan and it all looked good tho. theres no extra free play in the valve train. about to go drop the pan and see what i come up with.

 

when you pull the pan, just check for metal debris and ruined bearings. sometimes when the rod is bent but not busted, it crushes teh **** outta the bearing on oneside from an uneven load

pop out the bearings and make sure one area isnt all polished up

hopefully the motor is saveable. I hydrolocked my motor, and drove around with it knocking (couldnt afford to fix it at the tiem)

damn I wish I woulda dropped the pan and pulled the head and put in new rods, would have saved me the trouble of finding a whole new block.


see, honda motors dont run very well with a fist sized hole and no oil or coolant lol

 

haha i bet not. yea dropped the pan and pulled the head off. no metal shavings and i couldnt really tell if the rods were bent. so i pulled the head and my pistons wouldnt go all the way up to the top of the sleve so i know they were bent a little. good news is my sleves still look amazing from the rebuild i did 2 months ago. id keep working on this more but i have to wake up for school in 3 hours. anyways as it seems now im gunna get some rods of craigslist for like $20 and a new head gasket and see how it goes. the rings and bearings only have like 3k on them so i dont think they are beat too bad but i'll check them tomorrow

 

Id replace the bearings on the rod that was bent at the very least, though would be a good idea to replace all of them. you never know when one bent rod makes the crank rub against the other bearings from an offset load

just my 2 cents

 

what motor is it? because i have a set of D16Y8 rods and pistons in my backyard ill let you have for cheap.

 

this may just be condensation building (water)

typically happens on cars that are driven only a couple miles round trip then turned back off, and they never reach full operating temps.

do you daily drive short distances, say less than 5 miles round trip (to store, work, etc)

i know you found you had bent rods, im just trying to clarify that the milky substance in the valve cover may not indicate anything wrong

 

every rod was bent very slightly. the cars just used to drive to school and back mainly 30 miles. i think it was just water and oil mixed together. the bottom end was a d15 and funny enough it still turns quite well with the bent rods. i picked up some rods today but got out of work too late to work on the car. i'll take a careful look at the bearings when i take the rods out. i only need this motor to last another 3 months untill i can get a swap i saved up for in there.