Idle and Acceleration problems! Help please.
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From: Nor Cal, California, United States
Ok just like the title says.
First off my car has a rough idle!
my car bogs from take off too about 3 thousand rpm. and then runs fine..(also runs fine when car is cold). But if I floor it it bogs out real bad! It feels like its running on 3 cylinders or a plug wire popped out.
I cleaned out the sensor on the back side of the throttle body. I think its the idle control valve.
Timing mechanically is perfect but with the distributor its only close. it does smell likes it running rich and there is a little bit of light smoke (white)
Motor has 4000 miles. I put new plugs although it bogged less with the old plugs. wires are still good (msd) Cap and rotor good.
Please any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
First off my car has a rough idle!
my car bogs from take off too about 3 thousand rpm. and then runs fine..(also runs fine when car is cold). But if I floor it it bogs out real bad! It feels like its running on 3 cylinders or a plug wire popped out.
I cleaned out the sensor on the back side of the throttle body. I think its the idle control valve.
Timing mechanically is perfect but with the distributor its only close. it does smell likes it running rich and there is a little bit of light smoke (white)
Motor has 4000 miles. I put new plugs although it bogged less with the old plugs. wires are still good (msd) Cap and rotor good.
Please any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
maybe go into detail with what motor it is and whats done to it along with everything else you have already done to diagnose the prob. sounds like you know what ur talking about. air in coolant-rebleed it and remember to have heat on full blast, HG didnt seal maybe since u said its blowing smoke.
Yeah man, more detail. Year, model, engine, mods, etc.
I had these exact symptoms when I did an LS VTEC with home made ITB's. The outer 2 wires on my TPS were reversed so it was reading WOT at idle and visa versa. Needless to say when I floored the gas I lost all power.
I had these exact symptoms when I did an LS VTEC with home made ITB's. The outer 2 wires on my TPS were reversed so it was reading WOT at idle and visa versa. Needless to say when I floored the gas I lost all power.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Nor Cal, California, United States
Ok my motor is B18 b head mounted to a b18a block( all that was available to me)
9:1 comp pistons eagle rods arp everything and crower valves as well as dual valve springs and titanium retainers. Motor is bored over .5 stock ecu.
Things Ive done; check timing almost everyday cleaned IACV cleaned throttle body reset computer changed plugs changed cap checked rotor. going try the coil next.
I was wondering if it could be the head studs I have not had time to re torque them.
I was thinking maybe it is my MAP sensor. But I have no CEL and it runs better when cold!
I hope that helps a little bit.
9:1 comp pistons eagle rods arp everything and crower valves as well as dual valve springs and titanium retainers. Motor is bored over .5 stock ecu.
Things Ive done; check timing almost everyday cleaned IACV cleaned throttle body reset computer changed plugs changed cap checked rotor. going try the coil next.
I was wondering if it could be the head studs I have not had time to re torque them.
I was thinking maybe it is my MAP sensor. But I have no CEL and it runs better when cold!
I hope that helps a little bit.
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Maybe you have a HG issue and it's burning coolant. That could be the source of the white smoke. Is it thick smoke or just a little? What HG are you running?
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The smoke is very light and it does smell a little on the rich side.
Oh I cant remember its either a cometic or an oem Honda im almost positive its oem Honda.
That could be the issue I have not re torqued my head studs like arp recommends.
Oh I cant remember its either a cometic or an oem Honda im almost positive its oem Honda.
That could be the issue I have not re torqued my head studs like arp recommends.
Oh man that movie is hilarious. Enjoy that.
So anymore developments? You think it's an OEM HG? I don't have experience with ARP head studs, I've always used OEM, even on my LS VTEC.
For the rich situation, I guess if coolant was getting in, it would deaden the mixture slightly. Maybe trick the o2 and the ECU would add more fuel to compensate. My thinking anyways. Still doesn't explain the bogging until 3K though. I think we need someone else to chime in here and help diagnose this problem.
So anymore developments? You think it's an OEM HG? I don't have experience with ARP head studs, I've always used OEM, even on my LS VTEC.
For the rich situation, I guess if coolant was getting in, it would deaden the mixture slightly. Maybe trick the o2 and the ECU would add more fuel to compensate. My thinking anyways. Still doesn't explain the bogging until 3K though. I think we need someone else to chime in here and help diagnose this problem.
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From: Nor Cal, California, United States
That movie was hilarious! WOW!
So now it does it every time i drive.I am going to have to re torque those studs and do an oil change on my day off.
Adding more fuel could help. I am going to swap some sensors with my cousins known working ones one at a time to try and figure out that way.
Thank so much for your ideas!
So now it does it every time i drive.I am going to have to re torque those studs and do an oil change on my day off.
Adding more fuel could help. I am going to swap some sensors with my cousins known working ones one at a time to try and figure out that way.
Thank so much for your ideas!
Sound to me like it burnin a little coolant. The reason it may run better at high revs is cause its gettin more fuel and spark. Are ya loosin any coolant. Do a compression test and compare wit all the other cylinders. You can also look at the condition of plugs. Is one a different color or dark. That may help find the problem. Good luck
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Yeah I might be burning coolant but its not much at all.
When it revs higher at half throttle its fine but at full throttle it goes no where.
Im sure my compression is perfect i dont even have 4k on it yet.
When i pulled the old plug they all looked the same but i noticed a bit of oil on the threads of each plug. With the new plug i see no oil.
When it revs higher at half throttle its fine but at full throttle it goes no where.
Im sure my compression is perfect i dont even have 4k on it yet.
When i pulled the old plug they all looked the same but i noticed a bit of oil on the threads of each plug. With the new plug i see no oil.
For some reason it sounds like you have a dead cylinder. Did you do a compression test? The main thing to look for is a differenve between all cylinders.
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From: Nor Cal, California, United States
A dead cylinder...no im pretty sure its not...cuz it would bog at all times! It only gogs sometimes! I have had a dead cylinder before not the same!
But thank you!
But thank you!
im guessing u havent always had this problem
do a oil change see if theres coolant in the oil. Do a compression test, maybe its a blown head gasket.
do a oil change see if theres coolant in the oil. Do a compression test, maybe its a blown head gasket.
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From: Nor Cal, California, United States
Yeah it was fine then it started to do gradually do it as i drove the car.
I hope the head gasket is not blow its only 4k old. I need to retorque the headstuds for sure! like arp recomends
Thank you
I hope the head gasket is not blow its only 4k old. I need to retorque the headstuds for sure! like arp recomends
Thank you
I hear you jptyper, I've got the exact same thing going on also. I got a basket case and trying to figure everything out. So far I had a bad PCV, TPS sensor was off by quite a bit, idle screw was set too low, idle bleed screw was closed all the way, coolant was very low, and all the vacuum hoses were hosed!! Made great progress. But just the bog under about 3000 and only after warmed-up. Gonna turn my attention to the FITV and IACV. Need to learn about them in more depth.
TJ
TJ
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