Do I need to put Hondabond on the entire Oil pan, both sides or only in the 4 corners, just to hold the gasket in place.

Which side of the gasket goes on the block, the one that has no lines in it or the flat side?

This will be my 2nd attempt, first one is leaking.

Thanks!

 

i used rtv around the whole thing, and it's causing a leak so i say just do the corners...the hondabond/rtv shouldn' really be needed. gaskets do a good job just the way they are.

 

are u in your garage laying on your back attempting to install this gasket ? if so i feel your pain it's a BITCH to have that gasket stay on the oil pan, their is a compound the auto parts store sells (forgot the name) it basically holds the oil pan gasket in place so it does not move. As for your MAIN ? the manual says to apply it on the 2 edges of the pan gasket. I have heard ppl apply hondabond on the entire gasket makes a tighter seal. I'm curious what caused the first one to fail?

 

I used permatex ultra gray all around the oil pan before, followed the sequence and re -torque to 10lbs and it leaks. I wonder if I just re-torque it less.

 

re-torquing it less won't solve the issue. I'm guessing the gasket is new correct? how bad does it leak? a fast drip drip, or a slow leak? i'd tighten the bolts a TAD more be gentle those bolts are sensative or try the rtv sealant.

 

I wouldn't do the whole thing. Just put it on the timing belt side where there's ribbs in the center on the oil pan gasket. I would only use a torque wrence and tq them down to 10lbs(Honda Spec) and there's also a sequence you'll have to follow when torquing them down.

 

It so bad that the oil goes thru the exhaust pipe and burns it and causes the engine to smoke, and I have oil over under the car and some oil are in my rear bumper and license plate.

So do not put hondabond on the whole gasket on both sides just a little to hold the gasket in place?

 

I have a 92 accord EX with the same problem. I just wish there was an easier way to get around the exhaust

 

btw what year is your accord? when i firts did my 94 accord, oil was leaking like a hose, turns out the gasket was not lined up with the pan. After you do your oil gasket and pan installatiion, use the tip of your fingers to feel for the gasket edges when you torque down the bolts the pressure applied pushes the edge of the gasket out. Run your finger 360 if you feel the edges of the gasket stcking out, the you should have it installed properly. I hope this makes sense to you.

 

i think the sequence starts from the center and work your way out.

 

Let's be exact. Honda's torque specification for the oil pan gasket is 9lbs or 12 N-m. Torquing to 10 lbs is 10% higher than recommended. Don't do it. Also, use hondabond on the corners to cover the seams created by the oil pump and the main seal.

 

The method I use since it's really a tight squeeze in there is to put a trace amount of ultra grey rtv in between the gasket in a few places.....keeping in mind only a small amount....and the oil pan and barely let it dry so that it acts as a means to keep the gasket from moving. I put some on the sides where it slightly bends...like I said, just a small amount. I'm not trying to create a gasket I'm just making a way for it not to move as I got to put the pan back up. Then for the torque sequence, as is the case in any installation that requires a gasket, you start from the inside then go out. The idea is to squeeze the gasket outward, as supposed to inward, which would cause the gasket to create a seam where oil has a chance to squeeze through. If you do it right, you only need to go to 9-10 lbs and there will be no chance of messing this up. I usually barely put on all four corners nuts without them even being tightened down just so I can use my hand to hold the pan in the middle while starting the middle nuts and if I need to release my hand I know the pan won't drop.

Oh, and I'd rather not bother putting hondabond on the block as it will be a bitch trying to get it off and I wouldn't want to scratch it trying to it off.

Remember you take bolts/nuts off from the outside in while you put them back on from the inside out, this applies to most installations.

 

This thread is over a year old I hope he got it fixed by now lol

But first problem is when most people use silicone or whatever they use wayy too much and it just squishes out when they tighten it. I rarely use silicone, I use the brown aviation sealant made by Permatex plus it smells like rum. Advance used to carry the small bottles but I havent seen them in months, I see them at napa/carquest though. It has a little brush attached to the inside of the cap and just brush on both sides, let it tack up for a couple minutes put the pan up carefully while checking the outside of the gasket to make sure nothing slipped inside and I torque them with equal gaps in between, for instance all 4 corners then the ones in the middle of those, etc....Before that stuff I used International silicone (they make diesel engines, basically a ford powerstroke) but last time I used yamabond (from dirtbike store) it was pretty similiar in texture so it should work good also. i would use it on both sides though and I torque them with a 1/4 ratchet to prevent stripping/snapping the bolt. Have never had any oil leaking problems when I do it, just dont use too much sealant. ONE foot pound is not going to make a difference from leaking or not...just in my opinion..and for some engines if you go to the dealer and ask for a oil pan gasket they will give you a tube of their brand silicone since some dont use gaskets (obviously their tube is made by someone else with just their name on it just like the international stuff I use)

 

With the exception of the bearing hump corners, these gaskets are supposed to go on dry. I'd choke a fool if I saw them smearing RTV or Honda bond all over the gasket.

 

Ya, as long as you barely put any on, you shouldn't have to worry about it drying and getting smaller and hence allowing oil seepage. I use just enough to act as stickem glue. I'm not trying to build a gasket.

 

just did mine. the gasket didn't fit snugly on its on into the one corner after working the gasket around a bit. so i caked the whole thing with hondabond. a good layer on the bottom and on top. it still didn't seat correctly after working the gasket around. i wiped off any excess from the sides after working the gasket into it seating place. but again the one side was not seated perfect. i figured i had the right amount to make a good seal without squashing extra into the inside of the pan after tightening into place. so i let it sit for a couple hours anyway after tightening again. i followed the tightening sequence close but not exact. i probably over-tightened them too. but was mindful they didn't need to be extremely tight. No leaks after 48 hours and 150 miles. it was leaking a quart and a half a week. anyways i hope i never have to take it off its probably stuck on very well. so should i be aware of anything strange from using too much hondabond? thanks in advance.

 

I use permatex and the key is to make sure you clean the contact area and making sure all bolts have equal torque. you could even use a house drill set at mid to low power setting depending on the drill and use it on the bolts at the same setting for all bolts and the torque should be equal.

 

In reality the only issue you will ever have is if the surface area of the block and the pan are not completely and totally free of oil...and are more or less free of most, if not all, old gasket material. Then you can use an oil pan gasket with no issues. Then just torque the inner bolts first and work your way out to the corners.

If there is any oil at all anywhere on either surface it will leak.

 

For those who may be having trouble with the exhaust while working with oil pan, I have found that I can actually push my exhaust towards the rear of the car enough to get it from over top of the( i think) mounting plate for the radiator. Once this is done you can easily get that darned thing out of the way!!

 

With all this fiasco about hondabond and gasket not sitting right (no matter how old the thread), has anyone considered checking to see if the pan itself is flat?

Take a very flat workbench and lay the pan flat to see if there are any gaps. If there are none, then the gasket should seat itself fine. If not, take a rubber mallet, NOT A HAMMER, to pound gently until the gap is gone.

Hope this helps...