Throttle Body Too Active
When I am driving and I try to sit at a consistent rpm like 3.5k or around there the throttle body seems to just open and close. It is way freakin annoying and you can pretty much feel the car bouncing around. This is my second throttle body, tps has been calibrated accurately, and I adjusted the throttle cable numerous times. Does anyone have an idea of what might me causing this?
Thanks
(I have a stock gsr btw)
Thanks
(I have a stock gsr btw)
check your iavc behind the intake manifold unplug it clean it inspect it for torn wires to the plug also wheres your idle at? you can adjust the flat screw on the t.b right above the throtle plate to adjust the idle also theres no way the throtle will open unless the cable is pulled so im thinking you mean when your driving at a consistant rpm like around 3,500 rpm's the motor starts to jerk as if its getting open throtle? if so i believe this is your iavc or check the iat sensor.
check your iavc behind the intake manifold unplug it clean it inspect it for torn wires to the plug also wheres your idle at? you can adjust the flat screw on the t.b right above the throtle plate to adjust the idle also theres no way the throtle will open unless the cable is pulled so im thinking you mean when your driving at a consistant rpm like around 3,500 rpm's the motor starts to jerk as if its getting open throtle? if so i believe this is your iavc or check the iat sensor.
Thanks
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Sorry been wicked busy and I haven't had the chance to clean it out yet. I will probably end up doing it sometime this week.
As far as the video, the rpms don't bounce so you wouldn't be able to see anything from one.
I should also mention that after the throttle body closes, when I step on the gas there is a pretty harsh jerk to get the car accelerating again. I dunno if this helps for a diagnosis.
Thanks, I'll let you guys know soon what happens.
As far as the video, the rpms don't bounce so you wouldn't be able to see anything from one.
I should also mention that after the throttle body closes, when I step on the gas there is a pretty harsh jerk to get the car accelerating again. I dunno if this helps for a diagnosis.
Thanks, I'll let you guys know soon what happens.
sounds like its sticking you can adjust that also if you look closly on the side under the throtle wheal theres a real small screw with a small nut just adjust it if it sticks after the throtle closes.
how old are your plugs, wires, cap and rotor? can u actually feel the throttle body sticking with your foot in the pedal, or do u just feel the car jerking and bucking when u try to get back on throttle?
i had this same issue on my car. it turned out to be the blox tps sensor. it read .5v at idle, and close to 5v at wot, so it took me a little while to figure out the issue. with a multi meter hooked to the signal wire, u should be able to slowly crack the throttle and see teh voltage slowly creep up. the blox sensor was smooth to like .9v then skipped straight to like 2.5v and was smooth the rest of the way to wot, I put on a oem sensor off an old throttle body i had laying around and it was a smooth increase in voltage from idle all through its range up to wot. took the car for a drive and it was fixed 100% that motor still runs smooth to this day.
cliffs: check voltage sweep on your tps sensor, .5 at idle and 5v at wot isnt all you check. should be a smooth steady increase in voltage as throttle increases
i had this same issue on my car. it turned out to be the blox tps sensor. it read .5v at idle, and close to 5v at wot, so it took me a little while to figure out the issue. with a multi meter hooked to the signal wire, u should be able to slowly crack the throttle and see teh voltage slowly creep up. the blox sensor was smooth to like .9v then skipped straight to like 2.5v and was smooth the rest of the way to wot, I put on a oem sensor off an old throttle body i had laying around and it was a smooth increase in voltage from idle all through its range up to wot. took the car for a drive and it was fixed 100% that motor still runs smooth to this day.
cliffs: check voltage sweep on your tps sensor, .5 at idle and 5v at wot isnt all you check. should be a smooth steady increase in voltage as throttle increases
One other thing to check:
Look at your lower engine mounts. If the rubber in there is shredded like mine is, every time you get on or off the gas, the whole engine rocks about an inch, and makes the car feel really jerky.
Look at your lower engine mounts. If the rubber in there is shredded like mine is, every time you get on or off the gas, the whole engine rocks about an inch, and makes the car feel really jerky.
how old are your plugs, wires, cap and rotor? can u actually feel the throttle body sticking with your foot in the pedal, or do u just feel the car jerking and bucking when u try to get back on throttle?
i had this same issue on my car. it turned out to be the blox tps sensor. it read .5v at idle, and close to 5v at wot, so it took me a little while to figure out the issue. with a multi meter hooked to the signal wire, u should be able to slowly crack the throttle and see teh voltage slowly creep up. the blox sensor was smooth to like .9v then skipped straight to like 2.5v and was smooth the rest of the way to wot, I put on a oem sensor off an old throttle body i had laying around and it was a smooth increase in voltage from idle all through its range up to wot. took the car for a drive and it was fixed 100% that motor still runs smooth to this day.
cliffs: check voltage sweep on your tps sensor, .5 at idle and 5v at wot isnt all you check. should be a smooth steady increase in voltage as throttle increases
i had this same issue on my car. it turned out to be the blox tps sensor. it read .5v at idle, and close to 5v at wot, so it took me a little while to figure out the issue. with a multi meter hooked to the signal wire, u should be able to slowly crack the throttle and see teh voltage slowly creep up. the blox sensor was smooth to like .9v then skipped straight to like 2.5v and was smooth the rest of the way to wot, I put on a oem sensor off an old throttle body i had laying around and it was a smooth increase in voltage from idle all through its range up to wot. took the car for a drive and it was fixed 100% that motor still runs smooth to this day.
cliffs: check voltage sweep on your tps sensor, .5 at idle and 5v at wot isnt all you check. should be a smooth steady increase in voltage as throttle increases
I cant feel the throttle sticking with my foot, it is like jerking when I get back on it.
I'm actually on my second throttle body because the first one I had went bad. At that time I had the same problems you were experiencing. It ended up throwing a tps low voltage code so we replaced the tps with a omnipower one and it still had the same problem. After that we figured it was the throttle body so I got a used one off ebay with an oem tps.
I'm not able to check the mounts right now because I am at work but I remember when I had my hood popped and my friend was revving my engine, the entire thing moved at least an inch every rev. Maybe that is the problem.
After doing some more research I am pretty sure its my mounts. My car also makes a clunking noise in the front of it which I thought was the shocks but maybe not.
So on my visual inspection I looked at one of them near the driver side of the car and I guess it looked fine, although I am not sure what to look for. I looked at the passenger side one also but not as thoroughly because it is in a tough position. I don't even know where the rear one is.
Anyway you guys could tell me where the rear one is?
I'll post pics of all of them tomorrow if I get a chance.
Thanks
So on my visual inspection I looked at one of them near the driver side of the car and I guess it looked fine, although I am not sure what to look for. I looked at the passenger side one also but not as thoroughly because it is in a tough position. I don't even know where the rear one is.
Anyway you guys could tell me where the rear one is?
I'll post pics of all of them tomorrow if I get a chance.
Thanks
there is a black metal T bracket that bolts to your engine then the other side bolts to the rear mount . look on the back where the tranny meets the motor and you will see the T bracket and rear mount . also check your front torque mounts . i had this exact problem in my ek and it was mounts.
Here are some pics of my mounts. I'm actually not sure if the pic I took under the car is the mount but I tired. Let me know what you guys think...




It looks like you took pictures of your upper engine mounts. There are five.
There are two on top, which is what it looks like you took pictures of.
Then there are three lower engine mounts, one right, one left, one rear center.
If you have air conditioning, look behind the compressor, underneath all the belts. You'll see a bar heading off towards the fender. Under the fender, it'll go through one of the mounts.
The one on the right side is a lot easier to find, a lot less stuff over there.
And I've not actually seen the rear one on mine so I can't describe it.
These diagrams will show you what I mean:
Right Front

Left Front

Rear

You'll notice that they're mounted differently than the top two you took pictures off. The top mounts have the bushing mounted parallel to the bar coming out of the engine, and you can see how the force of the engine revving would let it rotate in the center of the bushing, right?
The bottom mounts are mounted perpendicular to the bars coming out of the engine, and hold the engine in place as it rotates in the top bushings.
The bottom mounts are basically metal loops, with rubber bits on the inside. Those rubber bits are what cushion the shock of the engine moving around. Eventually they dry out and tear.
Don't worry too much about knowing what to look for. Once you find the mounts, you'll be able to tell if they're torn and messed up.
Mine are so bad right now, that the little rubber bits are completely gone, and the engine is just hanging inside the loops.
It's time for new ones. :p
There are two on top, which is what it looks like you took pictures of.
Then there are three lower engine mounts, one right, one left, one rear center.
If you have air conditioning, look behind the compressor, underneath all the belts. You'll see a bar heading off towards the fender. Under the fender, it'll go through one of the mounts.
The one on the right side is a lot easier to find, a lot less stuff over there.
And I've not actually seen the rear one on mine so I can't describe it.

These diagrams will show you what I mean:
Right Front

Left Front

Rear

You'll notice that they're mounted differently than the top two you took pictures off. The top mounts have the bushing mounted parallel to the bar coming out of the engine, and you can see how the force of the engine revving would let it rotate in the center of the bushing, right?
The bottom mounts are mounted perpendicular to the bars coming out of the engine, and hold the engine in place as it rotates in the top bushings.
The bottom mounts are basically metal loops, with rubber bits on the inside. Those rubber bits are what cushion the shock of the engine moving around. Eventually they dry out and tear.
Don't worry too much about knowing what to look for. Once you find the mounts, you'll be able to tell if they're torn and messed up.
Mine are so bad right now, that the little rubber bits are completely gone, and the engine is just hanging inside the loops.
It's time for new ones. :p
Thanks for the explanation. I'll have to get under the car again and take a look at them. As far as I can see they look like the are completely in tact but definitely all dried up. Sounds like a weekend thing to do.
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