So I got a b18a1 engine from a 91 Integra , and I am going to rebuild it/ build it up for my 92 hatch . I am thinking of using a Megasquirt ecu (or similar) to run this . Anyone use one ? How did it work , and how hard was it to use ? Or , will I be able to use to stock ecu from the d15 to run the b18?

 

phearable.net - best place for chipped ecus


and a d15 ecu with b18 will run worse then a fat man in a relay race.

 

So it looks like I can use the OBD0 ecu I grabbed from the Teg and have a wiring adapter to hook in place of the OBD1 system . Would an ecu from a later b18 engine that is OBD1 work in place of the original ecu?

 

No one really uses Megasquirt in the Honda world. Chipped stock ECU's are just too easy and they will drive the car better then most any other unit.

For an EG a chipped P28 can do anything you want and plug right into the factory harness. As far as the B18A1 is concerned, the engine harness should simply plug into your chassis harness at the shock towers.

www.phearable.net

John is a great tuner and can set you up. I have a LS/Vtec in an Eg hatch run by a P28 from John, and it runs excellent. If you have specific questions, just shoot him an email. Very good customer service.

 

Megasquirt was just a name that I know from my air-cooled VW days . I am still fairly new to the Honda scene . I really wanted the 1.8 out of a later model Teg , but at getting a complete 91 for only $200 , I just couldn't find a better deal , especially considering I was able drive this car and see how the engine runs . I never considered the ecu question until later . I already have the engine out and on my engine stand in my shop . I will be taking a long time to totally rebuild this engine between customer vehicles . I am a little slow right now , but that just means I have no money to buy the parts I want (cams , intake , throttle body , header , etc.) .

 

yeah about the only place ive heard of megasquirt is mostly for those in the european world that have a CIS system that want to convert to EFI, which ill be doing eventually with my Jetta. if you want a good solid standalone with lots of support then id say AEM is your best bet. granted they arent cheap, BUT the compatibility and plug n play of them along with all the support is a huge plus.

 

I'm gonna throw a wrench into the works here - my car is an automatic . Not my first choice , but my wife also drives the car , and she refuses to drive a standard . Now , I contacted phearable.net , and they do not support automatics . Any suggestions now?

 

It is possible to put MegaSquirt on a Honda using the stock sensors (the article lists '92-'02, but it should work with your Integra in the same way). You'd need to install it in parallel with the stock ECU in this case so the stock ECU could still interface with the automatic transmission controller - the ignition settings have been cracked, but the auto trans stuff hasn't. MegaSquirt isn't all that common in the Honda world because there's quite a lot of competition from hacks to the stock ECU. So you see it more often on things like VWs and Miatas which don't have easily hacked stock ECUs.

 

I use megasquirt on my d16y8. I don't recommend it unless you are into wiring, electronics, and fabrication. I've run it for several years and I'm constantly tuning and adding features. It is feature packed for less cost. But it's far from plug and play for a honda.

 

You are WAY better off using your stock D15 engine harness with that B18A and then adding the OBD1 92-95 Integra LS/RS/GS/SE OBD1 distributor, injectors, alternator (or just voltage regulator from your D15 alt in the B series alternator), and finding an OBD1 intake manifold to swap in complete with fuel rail, etc.

Converting to OBD0 is a backwards move and many people actually go he other way by converting OBD0 to OBD1, such as my own daily driven B18B 1990 Civic wagon in my signature. OBD1 has better 02 sensors, and is whole heartedly more accepted amongst the tuning community.

Then find any OBD1 Integra non-VTEC such as the 92-93 PR4 or 94-95 P75 ECU - auto of course.

The one HUGE complication you've thrown in the mix here is that the car is an auto, and you're going to attempt to keep it an auto - I highly recommend you reconsider this. My shop has done ONE complete auto LS swap into a Civic and I'll never do another one due to the problems we encountered.

Biggest problem off the bat is that the engine mounts for an auto do NOT line up at all in the 92-95 Civic Chassis. You will undoubtedly have to fabricate a rear t bracket and topside tranny bracket to get things to try and line up.

Secondly, and this might not apply to your chassis for sure, but on the 1997 civic we did the auto swap in the auto B series tranny was so much larger than the auto Civic trans that it would not clear the passenger side frame rail. After notching/boxing the frame rail, and after making the customer sign a waiver it finally cleared, but I'd never do it again. Heopfully you won't run into this problem, but if you start mockingthings up and it hits the framerail then it's time to teach your wife how to drive a manual transmission.

 

Actually there was a dyno test done by the old school Hybrid guys with a P06 and P75 ECU on a regular bolt-ons B20B (think B18B with even more hypothetical fuel needs) and believe it or not the engine ran BETTER and made MORE power on the P06 ECU! You don't have to believe me, and I won't be able to provide a link because it was literally 7 years ago or so, but I assure you I saw it with my own eyes.

I didn't suggest using the P06 here because this guy has an auto - I have no idea how the auto parameters for the P06 compare to the PR4/P75.