Well, i have just completely finished my h2b swapped into my em1. I put it on the street and it ran like sh***t literally....... My friend was there and he gave me a couple of suggestions. I want to see if anyone else agrees with him before i take it off and buy new things......
Heres the setup.
jdm h22a (obd1), b16 trans, skunk2 IM, 290cc saturated injectors from 97 lude, obd1 p13 ecu virgin, 99 si harness with the harness jumper, everything else is stock.

1 ok he saids my injectors do not go with my ecu. I need to get the rc 370cc saturated ecu (since I dont have the resistor box). Now could the p13 run saturated injectors?

2. My fan isn't turning on. He saids its my fan switch where my thermostats is at. I said No it can't be because my thermostats is working, the bottom coolant hose was hot after the car idle for a while..

3. He saids the fuel pump need to be upgraded to a 255walbro ... that I didn't have anything to say...

Could some1 comfirm any of these questions before I go and order parts..? Thanks guys. Really made me sad when the pushed the car a bit.. it was weak and slow and sluggish..

 

lol i only glimpse at the post, dont kno if anything else could b wrong but 1st thing i saw was your runnning p13, its going to run like **** with this ecu, try using a gsr computer or p28 with a h22 basemap before anything

 

Well, I would definitely have to say the injectors. I have a set of obd1 345cc injectors and a resistor box/ plug if you are interested. I believe that would clear it right up.

 

Yeah definately get a chipped ecu.. even if you have a p06 or p05 or p28 it can still be chipped with vtec and a h22 basemap.. the chipped ecu delete alot of dumb sensors.. I have my setup with no check engine lights...

 

1. not sure

2. Just cause your thermostat works doesn't mean the thermo switch is good. Try jumping the switch to see if your fan turns on. If it doesnt turn on your fan is bad.. if it does then try changing your switch out.

3. You dont really need a 255 walboro fuel pump. Ive been running a stock civic fuel pump for the past couple years and it runs perfectly fine.

 

1. Ok so for the injector problems, I'm going to install the resistor box and get the 345 injectors. Quick question, does the resistor box has to be FROM the 95 prelude or could it be from ANY honda car? Also, could the p61/p28 chipped ecu run a peak and hold setup? since originally they ran saturated injectors.

2. Ok for the fan switch I will change it out and see what happens. But could I use one off of a b16a2 since i have one laying around?

3. Ok i'll stick to the stock pump, but how can I make my fuel pressure go up a bit? Im running the 97+ prelude stock regulator.

 

Why do you need more fuel pressure?

 

Why are you double posting??
https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/h2b-swap-fueling-2487324/


P.S. use a p28 ecu or equivalent. The p13 ECU needs a bunch of sensors to function, such as EGR. A wire harness from a 00 SI does not have all the neccessary sensors. Swap the ECU.
Next, make sure your TPS and Map sensor plugs are not on backwards. Make sure they go to the correct sensor. They have the same connector and a lot of people mismatch them causing the car to run crappy.

The rest of the info, refer to you old post...

 

Sorrie I didn't mean to do that. Appearantly, my head is still confused thats all. That post was when I haven't ran/turned on the car yet... I just put the ignition to on and yeh had questions from there. Now is when i actually RAN the car. Well thanks for all the help. 1st things 1st. I will install my resistor box TODAY, I got my chipped p61 ecu, then will install the obd 345 injectors for now.

Now this is a quote from my other post by DSRxCANDYh22EG

""btw, i am using a p28 ecu. Some people agree and others don't, I believe you should match an ecu with the correct type of injector.""

1. Can you please clarify it a bit? I might have not FULLY understand it. So I SHOULDN't use peak and hold injectors with p61/p28 and vise versa?

2. About the p13 ecu not being a good ecu cause of all the sensors, I understand that, just wanted to start the car with it and see if it runs. now that I have a different ecu that questions has been answered. THANK YOU.

3. And quick question for you DSRxCandyh22EG; Was it hard to install the 255 walbaro fuel pump? I get a bit worrie about that because its in the fuel tank...and a spark will really cause some damage. ( By the way thanks, I did have the two sensors mixed up. Im surprised the car still turned on and ran..?? I got smarted and marked the sensors this time.) Thanks

 

Howcome you want a new fuel pump? I ran my H2B hard all summer with the stock 91 civic pump, and my airfuel's were fine during tuning.

 

Well many people recommended me to change it, then there are people that said the stock one is good enough. So I figured, aftermarket one the way that can't go wrong.

1. One more question, for the resistor box, does it has to be from a 92-96 prelude or could it be off of any honda? Cause I have one off of an accord and was thinking of using it.

2. Can you please clarify it a bit? I might have not FULLY understand it. So I SHOULDN't use peak and hold injectors with p61/p28 and vise versa?

3. Can someone confirmed that its ok to use the fan switch off of a b16a2 on to my h22a motor. (The sensor or whatever located where the thermostat is). I have one laying around and don't want to buy another one. Thanks

 

check your fan relay also

you can use any honda resistor box

yes you can use the b16 fan switch

 

Yea, most people dont even realize the Map and TPS connectors are on backwards... As long as you fixed it, you should be good.

Anyone is aloud to flame on this if they like but I have talked to several tuners and have come up with a "theory". Stock B series and D series computers use saturated injectors and have fuel curves and maps designed for that kind of injector. A p13's maps are designed for peak and hold injectors. Therefore, using a peak and hold injector would be a bad idea with a ECU designed for saturated injectors... Again, I said this is an old "theory" of mine. My car ran "OK" years ago with a skunk chipped p28 and some JDM prelude peak and hold injectors. Soon as I threw on the RC 310 CC saturated injectors, my car started to run smoother and better gas mileage... Could be just a coincidence but I have been using saturated injectors ever since...

The Fuel pump is much easier to change out than doing a motor swap, and it sounds like you did the motor swap right?

As far as swapping in the Fuel Pump, don't worry about spark too much. I cant really see how you can start a spark back there. Just dont be working on the gas tank and lighting up a bunch of ciggarettes at the same time. You have an EK/EM chassis so the fuel pump is under your rear seat. Just pull the rear seat out and you will probably see two metal covers. One is the EK gas tank sensor and the other is the actual fuel pump cover. The one that looks kinda like a kidney bean is the Fuel pump cover. Once you pop it off, there are a bunch of 10MM nuts that hold your pump down and from there its a cake walk. Good luck!

 

Thanks alot for the help/tips. I will go ahead and order the 370cc RC injectors and just go saturated. I don't want to wire in the resistor box anyways. THe only reason why I was leaning towards the stock oem peak and hold is because I could save a few $$ right now. But thats out of the qestion now.

As for the fuel pump I'm concerned because I dont know how the wiring of the pump is going to be. To be honest, I've never seen an aftermarket pump right out of the box before. So i'm just guessing I have to cut and tap new wires etc. And yeh I did do my own h2b swap but man... I went thru hell with it. I messed up a perfectly good h23a vtec out of a wagon... it ran like crap and I over heated. (I made a thread on it but I can't find it right now.). So then I had to get a new h22a ... and yeh I'm here now. Well thats a whole different story in itself.

Quick question since I'm at it; I'm using the EM1 harness on my swap, so when I buy the rc injectors do I have to buy the adapter plug also or its just plug right up? Hope that make sense. Thanks

O forgot one more small question... should I go with precision injectors or RC? I notice the precision injectors are 100$ cheaper and almost the same CC rating..

 

I came across a set of Lucas injectors 440cc for 200$ on ebay, debating either to get it or not? Anyone wanna chime in?

 

stick with either precision or rc. i prefer rc but my brother swear's by precision. you can get 440 precision's for 201$ shipped new on ebay.. yes, you have to get obd1 clips. because that's how the injectors come. you can get those for like 30$ on ebay or go to a u-pull it get them there for free.

 

O thanks for the input. Originally I was gonna go with RC but Someone just told me Lucas injectors are the same as RC and thats why I asked. Why are precision injectors so cheap? Gotta be a reason why....

 

prescision injectors are bosche thats why. nothing bad about them at all, infact i use them in a lot of builds.

as for the fuel pump, its directly plug and play man.

 

Thanks. I see , now whats wrong with Bosch? LoL I really dont know. I just heard that precision injectors don't fit the h22 skunk2 IM very well, might cause gas leaks. Please correct me if i'm wrong since I'm sure you got more experience with them than me. After work 2day I will go get my new injectors, just debating what size (thinking about 440cc for PTE or 370cc for RC) and between precision/lucas/or RC

 

you should pay someone to fix your car.. get it tune....

 

Damn, I got a new problem, my coolant fan isn't working. I didn't know if I should just ask here or made a new post so i just went ahead and made a new post. If anyone can help me please advise.. thanks

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/coolant-fan-isnt-work-tried-everything-2494685/