No coolant pressure after radiator replacement
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Hey, i dont know whats going on.
So my OEM rad cracked on the top (plastic of course) so i got a new one, just a cheap unknown name brand one.
Now it seems like theres not enough pressure inside to push open the thermo.
After running the car i can open the rad cap and no air or coolant will be pushed out. only half the rad gets not ( no fluid getting pushed though ) it was working fine before i changed the rad ( when old one cracked it was pushing a bunch out cause of the crack)
I am able to push the tubes so there is flow throughout the radiator.
one add tho, i did change out the coolant temp sender, it seemed to be a little longer, could that have anything to do with it? could it have blocked any passage, very small difference. ( im gettin a 205 - 220F ) depending on of im on the freeway or in traffic.
Thanks alot
So my OEM rad cracked on the top (plastic of course) so i got a new one, just a cheap unknown name brand one.
Now it seems like theres not enough pressure inside to push open the thermo.
After running the car i can open the rad cap and no air or coolant will be pushed out. only half the rad gets not ( no fluid getting pushed though ) it was working fine before i changed the rad ( when old one cracked it was pushing a bunch out cause of the crack)
I am able to push the tubes so there is flow throughout the radiator.
one add tho, i did change out the coolant temp sender, it seemed to be a little longer, could that have anything to do with it? could it have blocked any passage, very small difference. ( im gettin a 205 - 220F ) depending on of im on the freeway or in traffic.
Thanks alot
Thread Starter
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From: Yuma, AZ/San Diego, CA
OH yah and no leaks at all
also when i try to bleed the system it never blows any bubbles out but the temp gets high.
Modified by Ser1N at 8:51 PM 10/28/2008
also when i try to bleed the system it never blows any bubbles out but the temp gets high.
Modified by Ser1N at 8:51 PM 10/28/2008
you either have air in the system or thermostat is faulty.. the thermostat opens by means of heat not pressure.. turn the car off .... then open the bleeder screw then fill the system untill afz comes out the bleeder screw... more than likely there is air in the system... the thermostat has to be submerged in coolant in order to open properly..... it will not respond to air as it does coolant hence your overheating my friend!!!
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oHH that makes sense, i dont have a bleeder screw,
Today im going to take out the thermo and test it then in that case,
Thank you.
Today im going to take out the thermo and test it then in that case,
Thank you.
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So i got everything running good now, the thermo opens and the coolant runs through the system good. but i still run close to 100C ( a little less) consistantly on the highway and around 95C in the city. sometimes more around 100C in the city if its hotter out. it does not go over 100C besides one time because i forgot to push the fan button
)
is this fine?
When i hooked up the stock temp G it showed normal ( just under the middle) then when i hooked up the aftermarket it showed about 95C idle.
) is this fine?
When i hooked up the stock temp G it showed normal ( just under the middle) then when i hooked up the aftermarket it showed about 95C idle.
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Thread Starter
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From: Yuma, AZ/San Diego, CA
the cap is brand new came with the radiator. it does not leak anything and keeps pressure, as far as i can see.
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