95 delsol Si with JDM b16a swap w/ stock p61 ECU (b17a gsr)

I blew my headgasket a while back, so I got the head milled, new headgasket etc. When i was bolting the intake cam carrier i noticed it was getting a lil hard to bolt down. Turns out i had the Dizzy 180*s from where it should be... so i fixed it and continued to torque down the carriers to OEM tq. specs.

anyways im getting a code 4 now and it idles very rough (think v8)... I tried rotating the distributor and if i bring it all the way towards the front of the car the idle gets better (still not good tho) and if i rotate it the other way the car will almost die instantly.

That makes me think i am off a tooth on the cam timing but i am almost positive the cam timing is set and tensioned correctly.

Can a code 4 cause a car to run that lopy? The dizzy worked fine before i changed the headgasket and i didnt even unplug it (i couldnt get the connector undone, so maybe wiring)

the car has NEVER thrown any codes the ENTIRE time i have owned it since 03 (until now) and it has NEVER had an 02 sensor (weird)...Now im getting code 1 (o2 which is expected) and code 4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Salsa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can a code 4 cause a car to run that lopy?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Technically its not supposed to run at all. That said i've fried CKP sensors a couple of times and my engine ran fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Technically its not supposed to run at all. That said i've fried CKP sensors a couple of times and my engine ran fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>


OK so its prolly timed correctly then, Im almost positive it is (90%)

How did u cook multiple sensors?? dizzys arent cheap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Salsa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did u cook multiple sensors?? dizzys arent cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First one just died one day, engine overheated bad, might have gotten hot and died, i don't know, it was mom's car at the time, i think was 12, she just ran it that was for about 6 years until i got the car from her. Second one also just died one day, that was a used and also at some point rebuilt distributor i picked up for $50. CKP and CYP sensors both died in it, one a few days after the other, that was across 2 different engines and ECUs picked up another distributor from a friend of mine for free. no problems since.

 

I sounds like your cam timing is off. Pull the valve cover and TDC the crank shaft. Your crank pully should have the white mark lined up with the timing cover and the cam marks should be lined up with the head. Before you put the valve cover back on, make sure the gaskets aren't hard. If one is hard, replace them all, or it will leak. Good luck.

 

Im almost 100% sure that it is timed correctly. I took my time with it and this isnt my first time doing it...

if it was off time i would think the TDC code would get thrown as well (8) but it hasnt...

i've researched the code 4 and only a few people also have rough idle, most have high RPM disturbance (metal shards on pickup), while others have had the rotor screw back out


I was just wondering if rough idle could be caused by the CKP sensor which it appears it can... I reset ECU and as soon as I give it power....even before i start the car... it will throw the code 4, which makes me think its an electrical problem. Good thing i have the HONDA electrical troubleshooting guide for 95 sol's... Time to whip out the multimeter

 

Well the ecu will keep the code stored in it unless you let it sit for about 7-10 mins. So that could mean nothing that it comes right up.

It definately shouldn't throw the code till you start the car. I had mine go bad and the car ran fine just no vtec because the car went into limp mode. The sensor may have gone bad but are you positive you have all the plug wires in the right cylinder.

I know it sounds like a stupid question but you have no idea how many ppl ive got to look at their car and all I have to do is swap the two center wires and it runs fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecturbosol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well the ecu will keep the code stored in it unless you let it sit for about 7-10 mins. So that could mean nothing that it comes right up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My batt is DEAD... this isnt my daily its my weekend car... i was jump starting it... so i would think that it would be cleared

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecturbosol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It definately shouldn't throw the code till you start the car. I had mine go bad and the car ran fine just no vtec because the car went into limp mode. The sensor may have gone bad but are you positive you have all the plug wires in the right cylinder.

I know it sounds like a stupid question but you have no idea how many ppl ive got to look at their car and all I have to do is swap the two center wires and it runs fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

1-3-4-2... LOL.. Ill double check just in case though.

since it throws the code right when the ignition is ON i think its either:
a) wiring short or connection
b) short in dizzy housing ...the service manual says 350-700Ohms (or something like that) ECU gets power, sends power to the dizzy, when the signal comes back its either missing or not within spec (350-700ohms)



thats my theory anyways


Modified by Salsa at 1:38 PM 10/17/2008


Modified by Salsa at 1:54 PM 10/17/2008

 

Ok sounds like you've got everything right then. Maybe it is a short in the dizzy soory I can't help

 

 

****!!!!
wrong thread!
cant believe i brought back an old thread. lol
sorry