ok guys help me out, i just replaced my head on my 94 GSR engine, its in a 93 civic SI. everything seems to be hooked up and working. but im getting a code 14. which is the IAC, i have tried two other ones that i think were good and it still gives me the code 14. today i tried a brand new IAC i ordered from honda and i tried it but it gave me the same code. i have reset the ECU many times with no luck. im pretty sure its not the wires because when i start the car and unplug the plug going to the IAC the idle drops like its suppost to, so i figure the wires are good.

my next problem is that i need to set the timing so i can at lease drive it home (its sitting in front of a friends house) but i cant set the timing until the idle is good. so i guess that brings me to my next question. I think the IAC only controls the idle when the engine is cold so what if let it warm up until the idle is at 900 and then set the timing. i know i need to set the timing when its warm anyhow but just though i should check to see if the IAC plays any roles after the engine is warmed up. well thanks in advance for any info you guys can give me.

keith



[Modified by kwil666, 6:50 PM 11/30/2002]

 

recheck the wires just to make sure they are correct. Make sure the right wire was connected to the right plugs.

 

first it's IAC (Idle air control). Also the IAC and the TPS are the same connector and will plug into eachother causing a code. You might have them backwards. And IAC also is known as fast idle control, it makes idle high when cold. Hope this helps.

 

thanks guys for the replies so far. i know the first IAC was bad because when we took it off you could see that it was stuck open. i guess it could be that i have the wrong connector in the wrong plug but im pretty sure its right, i will check it out in a little bit here. if the wrong plug was in there the cars idle wouldnt drop when you unplug it. any other ideas i need as much help as i can get.

thanks again
keith

 

ok i checked to make sure the plugs where all in the right places, and it looks like they are. i was just going to let it warm up and then set the timing and get it home and off the street, but the idle wont ever come down to 900 or even close to 1000. also it dosent stay at any rpm it kind of jumps around between 1500-1700 or so and thats when its warmed up. it kind of sounds like i have a vacuum leak, i check everywhere i could think off and cant find anything. anybody have any ideas?
keith

 

got the same problem with my h22 swap. i am sure its a leak with me.
hope you can get it fixed.. i am going to check my idle control tomorrow

 

ok i think i have it figured out i got the code 14 taken care off, but the idle is still messed up. when warming up it jumps between 1500-3000 but not like it did before. when warm it still sits near 1500 and goes between 1400-1700. i was talking to my friend last night and we figured out that i have let a lot of air into the coolant lines while replacing all these IAC so im figuring i just need to bleed the lines really good. anybody have any other ideas?

keith

 

Dude what the **** are you talkin about??? The TPS connector and the IAC are totally different... The TPS is the same as the MAP but not the IAC.... The IAC plug can get confused with your IAT, KS, and EVAP purges solenoid... Besides that there isn't too much to get confused on... Also the IAC is not the FITV... The FITV opens when cold coolant runs through it.... As your motor warms up the coolant the valve closes lowering your idle.... The IAC when working correctly is to compensate for extra load on the motor... For example when you turn on the A/C or when you power steering pressure sensor tells the motor there is a load on it... I'm not talkin ****... I'm just clearing this up... Latez

 

all right i tried bleeding the coolant but it didnt seem to help at all. when its warming up it idles all over the place. it calm downs a bit when it does warm up but it idles at 1200. and usually it still lopes a bit. i replaced the IAC with a new one from honda and that took care of the code 14 i was getting but didnt fix the idle. does anybody have any ideas on this one?

keith

 

Did you happen to mess with the throttle blade stop screw [not the same as the idle air bypass screw]?

When the car is warm and you unplug the IACV, what does the idle fall to?

If you messed with either of the above screws and have your base idle set to high, the IACV will not be able to bring the idle back down....it can only add air.

The fact that your getting a code 14 doesn't always mean the valve is broke....it could mean it can't do its job correctly.

So if you messed with the throttle blade stop screw, you need to get this back to the factory spec. When this is done, set your curb idle speed according to the HELMS manual [you do have one, right].

Also, what is your TPS currently at....at idle, it should be about .45V [in the Helms, it actually specifies <9.8% I believe, but you need a scan tool to see that, however, since this is a standard +5V reference sensor, you can quickly figure out what 9.8% of 5V is].

 

Another thing that some people overlook is their throttle cable. If it is too tight, it will hold the throttle plate open and cause all knds of idle problems.

 

im really not sure what the throttle blade stop screw is or where to find it, or the air bypass screw for that matter. when the car is warm and i unplug the IACV the idle does fall. i just replaced the IACV with a new one from honda. the old one was stuck open when i took it off after i got the code 14. i stopped by honda today to pick up some stuff and was talking to one of the tech guys there and telling him what was going on. he said it sounds like the FITV and to test it by covering the hole inside the throttle body where the intake slides on. i did that when the car is warm and at idle and it was still sucking in air. when i covered it the idle dropped down to like 600-700. so it seems like i need to replace the FITV and it might all work out. one more question, there are two holes inside the throttle body one up high and one on the bottom im assuming that the one on the bottom is the FITV because thats the closest to the FITV.

thanks again guys
Keith

 

"Another thing that some people overlook is their throttle cable. If it is too tight, it will hold the throttle plate open and cause all knds of idle problems."

yeah i checked that and its all good, fully open with the pedal pressed and then fully closed with the pedal depressed thanks for the idea.

Keith


[Modified by kwil666, 4:12 AM 12/6/2002]

 

i got it fixed thanks for all the help. it turned out to be the FITV. i bought a new one and it working great. not i just have to brake the engine in.

keith