I have an Acura Integra with the LS motor. I'm pretty sure its a used one not original to the car.

When I start the car the oil light stays on while the motor knocks. Once the light turns off the knocking then stops. Also when i drive over about 3000 RPMs it starts knocking again and the battery light dims on, and when i pull to the side of the road it bogs to a low RPM and the oil light flashes and the engine light comes on.

Is there an easier fix then just swapping the motor. AGAIN.
I'm thinking it may just be the oil pump or something like that.

HELP!!

 

no help???

 

if its knockin the damage might already be done, i drain that oil and see whats going on in there.

but from what your describing its not somethin you can fix with a can of restore, might have to swap it out again but that leaves way for bigger and better things.

 

90% u have a spun bearing.

 

Is the oil level that you have in there, correct?
Have you done any compression or leak down tests?
How is the timing?
What do the spark plugs tell you?
Drain the oil, take a magnet and stick it in the oil, is there any metal that sticks to the magnet?

 

havent run any test yet.. but timing is on.. and the plugs look good.. from what ive been reading im getting the spun bearing alot..

tomorrow im draining the oil and pulling off the oil pan to see whats going on in the block..

how do u run a leak down test and compression test..

 

the 90% on a spun bearing is a maybe...now the bad part. even though i'm not sure i would give a bearing 90% odds. the other problems are just as serious. another popular way to blow up a motor that is burning a lot of oil is by melting a piston. once you burn enough oil it builds up on top of the piston and in the ring lands, sooner or later detonation happens and you actually melt the side of the piston. oil pressure drops and causes everything you have just said. the spun bearing will do exactly the same thing only the motor won't use quite as much oil as a melted piston. melted pistons normally use 1qt of oil every 50-100 miles. spun bearings may only use a quart every 500-1000 if the rings are somewhat okay {and they usually aren't} if i were you i would call steve at hmotorsonline and just order one of the JDM units. the LS motor is so cheap that 35k long blocks are something like 500-700 bucks.

p.s. is your car smoking like spy hunter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idrivesideways &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 90% on a spun bearing is a maybe...now the bad part. even though i'm not sure i would give a bearing 90% odds. the other problems are just as serious. another popular way to blow up a motor that is burning a lot of oil is by melting a piston. once you burn enough oil it builds up on top of the piston and in the ring lands, sooner or later detonation happens and you actually melt the side of the piston. oil pressure drops and causes everything you have just said. the spun bearing will do exactly the same thing only the motor won't use quite as much oil as a melted piston. melted pistons normally use 1qt of oil every 50-100 miles. spun bearings may only use a quart every 500-1000 if the rings are somewhat okay {and they usually aren't}
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmmm. Some good points.

OP: When you do your compression test, first do a base line test on all four cylinders. Healthy compression is generally around +/- 5% of each other. If you get a piston that is a bit lower than the rest, take a teaspoon of oil and poor it right down the spark plug hole and right on top of the cylinder. Recheck the compression right after doing that and see if the compression goes up. If your compression goes up then you have probably found your problem.

 

that battery light thing is weird. two things you need to do. compression test and voltage test. remember, unhook your coil ground when you do the compression test. second, get an ohm meter and test the battery with the car turned off. now start the car and take a reading. it should be 11.8 or so with the car off and jump to 14.2 or so with the car running. let us know the results of both tests.

 

if its knocking, it is too late for preventive maintenance i guess. if you quit running it, you might be able to salvage the block for a rebuild. another weak point in the ls motor are the wrist pins. mine took a **** and i had low low miles. around 58k when it went through my block.

 

wrist pins frequently die with low oil pressure. it's rare to see an engine break one with healthy everything else. when oil pressure drops the pin isn't getting oiled and heat will build up. eventually the piston comes apart and you have metal fragments everywhere. i supose you could look into a rebuild. it's a great idea with a vtec but the LS motors are so cheap that JDM looks inticing. if i could have replaced my GSR for the price LS engines are selling for i would have in a second.

 

ok so i pulled the oil pan off and no metal shavings.. the only thing is there is a little bit in the oil pump pick up thing.. ::i probably sound stupid:: but everything else seems to look good..

i dont have any of the things to check compression

and the car isnt smoking

 

how much oil was in the car when you pulled the pan off? also did you do the battery test i mentioned above?

 

metal shavings = no good. did u inspect the crank?