A/T-M/T pedal assembly
I'm swapping them out today. I have everything unbolted and ready to come out, but the pushrod for the vacuum booster is in the way. Is there any easy way to get this out of the way or what? I tried pulling the master cylinder off and just removing the vacuum booster but I don't want to disconnect my brake lines and have to bleed them again. Any suggestions?
That was the biggest pain in the *** to do on the auto to manual swap I did recently. So much sweating and swearing lol. I just pulled the booster out a bit, bent the brake lines a little tho so i'm not sure if you'd want to do that. Not sure if you're dropping the steering column and pulling it out, that would make the job a whole lot easier.
Changing the pedals is easily the biggest pain in the *** doing an auto to manual swap, which really says more about how easy the swap is than anything IMO. pull the brake booster away from the firewall as far as you can and you should be ok. You don't have to drop the steering column, but it does make the job a lot easier, especially consider its only 5 bolts 4 for brackets and one bolt at the bottom that holds the bottom universal joint on.
Got it!!
Before I even checked back on this thread, I pulled the brake booster back and dropped the steering column down a bit and worked that bastard out of there. I'm glad to know that the biggest pain is hopefully over with. I still have to put the clutch pedal in, but I got the gas/brake pedals in after about 2 hours trying to get that thing outta there. I think I'm gonna need a chiropractor when this is all said and done hahaha. Thanks for the help guys.
Before I even checked back on this thread, I pulled the brake booster back and dropped the steering column down a bit and worked that bastard out of there. I'm glad to know that the biggest pain is hopefully over with. I still have to put the clutch pedal in, but I got the gas/brake pedals in after about 2 hours trying to get that thing outta there. I think I'm gonna need a chiropractor when this is all said and done hahaha. Thanks for the help guys.
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i guess auto to manuals are becoming more common than i thought...
Reminds me.. i need to get a new cluster.. Mine still says im in park.
Reminds me.. i need to get a new cluster.. Mine still says im in park.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thateguhate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess auto to manuals are becoming more common than i thought...
Reminds me.. i need to get a new cluster.. Mine still says im in park.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remove the blue shift interlock module (mounts where clutch pedal would be on a manual) and remove all of the old automatic shifter assembly and it wont light up, just make sure you either jump the 2 large wires so it will start or add in the clutch relay and switch so the car only starts when the clutch pedal is depressed.
Reminds me.. i need to get a new cluster.. Mine still says im in park.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Remove the blue shift interlock module (mounts where clutch pedal would be on a manual) and remove all of the old automatic shifter assembly and it wont light up, just make sure you either jump the 2 large wires so it will start or add in the clutch relay and switch so the car only starts when the clutch pedal is depressed.
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im not feeling seeing those gears there regardless lol... in due time its coming out for a M/T odometer...
im just broke so eh..
im just broke so eh..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thateguhate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not feeling seeing those gears there regardless lol... in due time its coming out for a M/T odometer...
im just broke so eh..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, i hear ya, I couldn't stand mine either, swapped it out for an Si cluster eventually.
im just broke so eh..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, i hear ya, I couldn't stand mine either, swapped it out for an Si cluster eventually.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grandtheftlunchbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible to match up the odometer miles on the clusters so if I got a M/T cluster I could have the correct mileage on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2 ive been wondering this myself.... Id like to do the same if its possible.
x2 ive been wondering this myself.... Id like to do the same if its possible.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grandtheftlunchbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible to match up the odometer miles on the clusters so if I got a M/T cluster I could have the correct mileage on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grandtheftlunchbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible to match up the odometer miles on the clusters so if I got a M/T cluster I could have the correct mileage on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. you just have to swap the speedometer heads in the cluster, you just have to pop the clear plastic face off the cluster and then remove three screws in the back to remove the speedometer head, installation is reverse of removal. I've done it several times.
Yes. you just have to swap the speedometer heads in the cluster, you just have to pop the clear plastic face off the cluster and then remove three screws in the back to remove the speedometer head, installation is reverse of removal. I've done it several times.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes. you just have to swap the speedometer heads in the cluster, you just have to pop the clear plastic face off the cluster and then remove three screws in the back to remove the speedometer head, installation is reverse of removal. I've done it several times.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for confirming this for me!
Yes. you just have to swap the speedometer heads in the cluster, you just have to pop the clear plastic face off the cluster and then remove three screws in the back to remove the speedometer head, installation is reverse of removal. I've done it several times.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for confirming this for me!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colombian93EG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i need a new brake master cylinder anways will it be easier for me then since i have to remove it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not especially no, but its still not that hard, its getting the pedals around the steering column thats so hard, which can be fixed by simply dropping the column, 2 nuts, 2 bolts.
Not especially no, but its still not that hard, its getting the pedals around the steering column thats so hard, which can be fixed by simply dropping the column, 2 nuts, 2 bolts.
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