Im running Mobil 1 syn 10w-30. The balance shafts are removed. The car makes around 70 psi at startup and while warm at idle it will flucuate from around 11-14 or so. It wont jump back and forth it will just be different sometimes than what it was when I looked at the pressure last. Its above the spec but im just wondering why it make change slightly ? Could it have to do with oil tempature ?

 

your oil pressure doesnt seem to have changed much from stock. You did plug the balancer shaft orifice, right? I'm running roughly 30psi at warm idle and approx 90psi at cold start with Torco 5w30.

with the 40w break in oil, it idled around 40psi at warm but had less peak pressure.

 

yea i did it just like they showed. I thought 117's oil pressure was close to that.

You have also just rebuilt the bottom end i would imagine that the smaller clearences could yeild more oil pressure.

 

so, after the the car is warm, it will show 11, and the next time it will show 14? Keep in mind that oil temp takes around 4X as long to reach full temp vs water temp

 

water temp is steady at around 180-190. This will be after driving for 10-15 with outside temps around 80 approx.

 

i have an oil temp gauge, and it doesn't reach full operating temp until about 10 minutes of highway driving AFTER the water has reached full temp.. so more like 15-20 minutes of driving.

i guess what i'm trying to say, is that just because your water temp is 190 doesn't mean your oil is too, unless you've been driving for more than 20 minutes

 

also, when you shut the car off, the oil temp drops probably 4X the rate of the water temp.

i.e, in the time it takes to shut the car off and fill with gas, the water temp will stay 190, and the oil temp will have dropped from 200 down to ~150

10* in oil temp change will immediately reflect in oil pressure change

 

Ok i called kspeed and they said it will increase oil pressure at idle by around 5-10 psi, but over 3k the pressure relief valve in the oil pump will regulate the pressure.

Below 4.3 psi will throw the oil pressure light

And the specs are:

Idle: 10 psi minimum
3,000 rpms: 50 psi min

This should be done with oil at 176 degrees


Modified by lude98SH at 5:29 PM 7/15/2008

 

The gauge i had on there was a cheapy gauge idk if that may have something to do with it. But if its that low idk. According to the service manual it says to inspect the oil pump and the oil pump i checked around less than 2k ago and was in great shape, everything was in spec and in the service(new) not even close to the service limit.

 

If the oil pump oil pressure relief valve has to regulate the pressure with the balance shaft galley's plugged, why even plug them. Hell why even remove the balance shafts then, just leave the belt off.

 

that was my question too but i would imagine increased pressure at idle cant be a bad thing.


ALSO oil level is fine and im running an S2000 filter


Modified by lude98SH at 5:39 PM 7/15/2008

 

on mine the relief kicks in ~80psi, ~3500rpm, idle is 14-15psi, all at 190-200* oil temp.
i still have the shafts in place, just cut the belt.. pretty fresh motor, about 2 months old from HMO

 

I'm sure the slightly higher pressure at idle isn't a huge deal at all. I'm just trying to understand the purpose of removing the shafts / plugging the orifices. Is there one?

 

if it's a tired engine that is struggling to make adequate pressure, it definitely couldn't hurt.... otherwise, its mostly a weight reduction.. lol.. 5 lbs?

 

i mean im just quoting what the guy at kspeed said and it makes sense because from what i understand the only thing regulating pressure is that pressure relief valve. I guess it could get to that pressure where it opens sooner so that your making more pressure sooner ? Idk im just trying to justify it.

 

yeah, you will have the extra pressure until you hit that same psi when the relief kicks. (probably will happen at lower rpm).

I really wouldn't worry about it too much.. Oil pressure isn't everything. Dad's ford 302 idles 5psi and only hits about 20 on a good day, and it's got over 200k and still going strong

edit:
also, my old H23vtec made it over 250K of hard miles, and it only had 8psi idle, and 35psi@3000rpm

 

this is def an issue since this car is only raced pretty much. Im not really trying to just get by.

I mean odds are that the shitty Harbor Freight gauge i have could just be off. But I dont want to take that chance

 

how fresh is the engine? is it a rebuild, or a factory build?

 

the head is basically fresh, the bottom end is an h22a stock with supposedly 80k

 

so 190-200 are what oil temps should stay at driving normally ?

What about during a 1/4 race ? or a road course event ? I believe 117 runs an oil cooler, idk what kind of temps he sees or would see without the oil cooler.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlang29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, when you shut the car off, the oil temp drops probably 4X the rate of the water temp.

i.e, in the time it takes to shut the car off and fill with gas, the water temp will stay 190, and the oil temp will have dropped from 200 down to ~150

10* in oil temp change will immediately reflect in oil pressure change</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hotter = lower pressure
Colder = higher pressure

When I see these flucations its only from driving from one stop light to another therefore i must be completely warm if im that low.

I think Ill have to check this with a good gauge before I get worried though. I hope.

 

it depends on outside temp.
in traffic on a hot day its about 220*, on a 10* day, it'll be about 170*
from 50*-85* or so, it is usually 190-200.

Driving the engine hard for extended periods will bring the temp up a bit, but i have never seen it above 230*. this is with the factory oil cooler

 

thanks man good info