i have a ticking from the passenger side oilpan of my y8
when the engine is cold its not too bad, but when it warms up it gets pretty loud.
i was wondering if any of yous might have any insight to what this might be
thanks in advance

 

make sure its not a rod bearing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure its not a rod bearing</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I was thinking.

Common with Y motors

 

okay, can i do that with the motor in the engine? like drop out the oil pan and unbolt the bottom of the rod and then move the crank around? or do i have to drop the whole engine out to do that?
i also have my old motor, if it is the rod bearing can i take the ones out of the old motor and put those in place of the bad ones?
oh ya, how will i know its bad, am i gonna have to micrometer it for clearance or something, or will it be obvious

 

bump this up for everyone whos still home on a friday night
will a shot rod bearing be obvious when looking at it?
can i do it with the engine still in the car?

 

yes you do the rod bearing without removing the motor through the oil pan and no i would not recommend using old bearings get new ones its cheaper security

 

yessir, ive been doing some research and i kicked myself for even asking that question
&lt;&lt;&lt; nub at everything internal -_-
im pretty sure it is the bearing though, pulled the plug on the #4 cylinder (one by the dist.) and the knocking quiets down
gonna pull the oil pan in a bit when it cools down and take a look
pray for my crank and rod h-t to the rescue

 

does it make that sound when you drive around? Only when idling right?

I have the same problem, keep us updated!

 

Your gonna have to pull the motor, it will be such a pain in the *** to do it while you have the motor still in the car.

 

yea you should just yank it out...doing it from under the car is just gonna be one big heeadache

 

no it def makes it while driving around and much more so when the car is warmed up, im gonna go out and drop the oilpan right now and go from there ill let you guys know

 

yah its definately a rod bearing.
the guy at murrays is tellin me i need to get the crank and rods machined to match the new bearings? is this true?
or can i just slap them in there?

 

now you have an excuse to go b series

 

i can barely afford this, college &gt; my monies
i did something risky and popped an old one in that i had laying around the ticking def stopped, but im still questioning if that was a bad move or not
the new ones are coming in on tuesday.

 

you went through a lot of work for having to rip it apart in 2 days..thats just my opinion

 

i would love to hear the final result that you got. i have a hard knocking also. im in the same financial position. (from blown B18b1 back o D16Y8)

 

dont know if it will help, but check out the shift linkage and make sure it is securely bolted. i had about a quarter inch play, due to the shift linkage secondary bar being loose. solved the knocking, squeeking and trans grinding. dont know if it will help you tho.

 

I have a ticking somewhere on my d16z6..

Possibly a rod bearing after reading your thread..

 

GREAT! i have the same ticking in my y8.

this is gonna be annoying.

 

sorry i havent responded, i havent been able to work on it a lot cuase ive been at work for the last 3 days.
its still in the car cause i dont feel like dropping it out i checked and i have two green and two brown but when i went to napa they did it by standard .02 over and .05 over. so i just got the standard and if i need the oversized ill get them.
if you have really hard knocking i would suggest driving as little as possible, because if you drive, it can mess your crank up
if you want i can take pictures while i do it. i was thinking about doing a DIY thread cause i couldnt find any, but since this is my first time, i thought better of it. ill see what i can do though
the parts should be in tommorow morning and i have the day off, so wish me luck.
it was definately the rod bearing too cause i took it off and the keys on the bearing were gone and it was spun.
ill keep you guys updated.

 

you can also check if its the bearing by starting the car and when its ticking pull your spark plug wires out one by one and wait until the sound goes away or gets quiet and thatll be the cylinder that you have the bad bearing on.

 

just picked up the bearings at honda. 20 dollars for half a bearing compared to 6 per bearing at napa. ill take pictures and do a noob write up if anyone is interested

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just picked up the bearings at honda. 20 dollars for half a bearing compared to 6 per bearing at napa. ill take pictures and do a noob write up if anyone is interested</TD></TR></TABLE>

if its a stock engine and youre trying to save money then 6 bucks for a full bearing would be the way to go. while youre in there you'd better change them all. 40 bucks for a full bearing is pricey unless youre doing a complete rebuild for high hp numbers, then i'd go with acl race bearings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i took it off and the keys on the bearing were gone and it was spun. </TD></TR></TABLE>

check your clearances or you'll be doing it again in about 6 months.

 

rgr, i thought so too. but napa was ordering and reordering for a week for me, and todays my day off so i wanted to get it done. so i went to honda and it was 80 bucks for two bearings so im gonna do that now. its for my dd so im not looking for too much out of it, hp wise.
gonna go outside and do it now, got the micrometer and plastigage gonna be some fun