Recomended Rod Bearings for a D16Y8
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Recomended Rod Bearings for a D16Y8
Hi,
Im pretty sure I have a spun rod bearing, not too much knocking but its there. Which brand should I stick to?
Engine is 100% stock 1998 EX D16Y8.
If in the future I would like to go Turbo could I just throw in ones specified for that configuration? Which ones?
Thanks!
Im pretty sure I have a spun rod bearing, not too much knocking but its there. Which brand should I stick to?
Engine is 100% stock 1998 EX D16Y8.
If in the future I would like to go Turbo could I just throw in ones specified for that configuration? Which ones?
Thanks!
#3
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Re: Recomended Rod Bearings for a D16Y8
OEM or ACL, whichever suits your fancy.
While you have the motor apart, you should consider getting ARP rod, main, and head bolts/studs, since you plan on boosting.
While you have the motor apart, you should consider getting ARP rod, main, and head bolts/studs, since you plan on boosting.
#4
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Re: Recomended Rod Bearings for a D16Y8
if u wanna do them all buy a set if u get ACL make sure u buy the duraglides. I used clevelites in my build. if u wanna just buy one bearing go to Honda. even with a slight rod bearing spun u should plasti gauge all of them to make sure your in spec still.
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Re: Recomended Rod Bearings for a D16Y8
Plastigauge, the tool when you only want to do the job half right!
Have a machine shop check your crank and main journals, or buy the right tools to properly spec out your bearing sizes. Having a machine shop do it will be cheaper, as long as you bring them the bare block and crank.
While you have everything apart (which you should, if you're replacing bearings), you should also have aforementioned machine shop hone your cylinder walls to remove any glazing, and spec your bore so you can replace the rings. If you don't replace the rings, and don't hone the cylinder walls, you won't get a good seal, and your engine will never run right. Then there's gaskets and seals...Hopefully you don't think this is just a "replace the bearings and slap it back together" project.
Have a machine shop check your crank and main journals, or buy the right tools to properly spec out your bearing sizes. Having a machine shop do it will be cheaper, as long as you bring them the bare block and crank.
While you have everything apart (which you should, if you're replacing bearings), you should also have aforementioned machine shop hone your cylinder walls to remove any glazing, and spec your bore so you can replace the rings. If you don't replace the rings, and don't hone the cylinder walls, you won't get a good seal, and your engine will never run right. Then there's gaskets and seals...Hopefully you don't think this is just a "replace the bearings and slap it back together" project.
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