RE: Stripped manifold castle nuts
Hey guys,
I bought a turbo manifold, and within a few weeks of it being on the car it's already badly cracked on a weld. In the process of taking it off, I couldn't seem to get the manifold castle nuts off! I got one, but stripped the next three badly and gave up.
Does anyone have any advice on the stripped nuts? and what not to do on the rest of them?
I bought a turbo manifold, and within a few weeks of it being on the car it's already badly cracked on a weld. In the process of taking it off, I couldn't seem to get the manifold castle nuts off! I got one, but stripped the next three badly and gave up.
Does anyone have any advice on the stripped nuts? and what not to do on the rest of them?
Vice grips didn't do the trick, and they were still a bitch to position in there.
I tried:
12mm wrench
Vice grips
Heating up the motor to get them hot
Nothing seems to work
I tried:
12mm wrench
Vice grips
Heating up the motor to get them hot
Nothing seems to work
Heat them up then spray some PB blaster on them. Let it soak in PB for like an hour. You might even wanna run the engine to get the studs and nuts hot. Should come off after that.
My favorite thing to do at work is hammer on a socket that is a little too small and impact it off.
My favorite thing to do at work is hammer on a socket that is a little too small and impact it off.
I really appreciate the advice, but what is PB blaster?
I wouldn't mind sacrificing a few sockets to impact those bitches, but I can't fit my impact gun down there, let alone a socket. Hell I don't mind sacrificing and replacing the nuts, anyway of shattering them off?
I wouldn't mind sacrificing a few sockets to impact those bitches, but I can't fit my impact gun down there, let alone a socket. Hell I don't mind sacrificing and replacing the nuts, anyway of shattering them off?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeDanceJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really appreciate the advice, but what is PB blaster?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You spray it on and it penetrates into the threads to loosen the bond. All I know is I spray it on every rusty, tight, old nut I have to because it makes them ALOT easier to get off.
You spray it on and it penetrates into the threads to loosen the bond. All I know is I spray it on every rusty, tight, old nut I have to because it makes them ALOT easier to get off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeDanceJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wouldn't mind sacrificing a few sockets to impact those bitches, but I can't fit my impact gun down there, let alone a socket.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remove bumper?
I wouldn't mind sacrificing a few sockets to impact those bitches, but I can't fit my impact gun down there, let alone a socket.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remove bumper?
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i always use my dewalt 18v impact to take off those nuts, a 12mm socket with a swivel and a extension and off they come, my point is, u can get an impact in there without takin off bumper
Well, it's a ram horn style manifold. So the manifold gets in the way of itself if that makes sense? I found PB Blaster (https://honda-tech.com/zeromodify?cm...st&id=34072158) I'm headed to Home Depot in 10 min to pick some up, so thanks a ton!!!
Am I suppose to just coat everything with it? Or spray it inbetween the nut and the stud? I dont want to soak the outside of the nut so the vice grips slip on it, or will they even? Also, let the engine warm up before, after, or during the spray and/or attempt to pry them off?
Am I suppose to just coat everything with it? Or spray it inbetween the nut and the stud? I dont want to soak the outside of the nut so the vice grips slip on it, or will they even? Also, let the engine warm up before, after, or during the spray and/or attempt to pry them off?
ahh that sux man, i have a top mount and access to those bolts is sooo easy, so did u strip the threads of the nuts, or did u strip the heads of em out? if u stripped the heads, vice grips are gonna be pretty much your only option, although these work pretty good for stuff like that as long as u can get in on there solid
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...5000P
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...5000P
ugh i also have a nut on the passenger side of the head that is almost completly rounded out. I guess i could try this ****, i have a custom bottom mount so the running comes up to where i can get a wrench on there with the closed end. Worse comes to worse im going to sawzall it off and just replace the stud.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeDanceJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have to pull the head to replace the stud?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you don't need to pull the head to replace an exhaust manifold stud.
No, you don't need to pull the head to replace an exhaust manifold stud.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeDanceJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have to pull the head to replace the stud?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no head doesnt need to come off, if u cut the stud off flush with the manifold flange, then take off manifold, there will be enough there for u to vise grip the stud out of the head
no head doesnt need to come off, if u cut the stud off flush with the manifold flange, then take off manifold, there will be enough there for u to vise grip the stud out of the head
Hmmmm. I'm thinking of just doing that! So worst case if I completely rape these nuts (no pun intended), I can just cut off and replace the studs?
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