hey i am new to engine building and i paid alot of money to get my motor built, i have darton sleeves carrillo rods arias piston so on and so forth and arp head studs, h22a4 is the motor, and i am haveing over heating problems i think its because the studs need to be retorqued, see i was never told or knew they needed to be retorqued and now my car is over heating, and i know its not the usual thermo fans, radiator.

my question is after like 2000 miles can i retorque them or is it too late, i was just gonna replace the headgasket but i think this may solve my problem. oy yeah its turbo running 18psi.

 

well i would say its better safe than sorry. it has been recommended to re-torque them after certain miles but i dont see a problem doing it when need be. If it is causing your motor to overheat i would check on the head gasket too.

 

yeah im thinking its cause its a cometic i dont know i thought they were good but i guess alot of people on here like ge better, i just dont want to blow another headgasket this would be number 2.

 

id say most people on here like OEM.. maybe a squirt of copper spray

 

Built H22, 18psi, GT30, ARP, deck and head resurfaced. I was told that retorquing was unecesssary. 10K miles, no problems. I know that retorquing was important back when 'sandwich' type gaskets were used as they crushed.

 

do oem honda headgaskets count as sandwich type?

 

Re torquing is not going to fix a overheat problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Re torquing is not going to fix a overheat problem </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2.

i would like to know why you people think by re-tourqing them would cure a over heating problem, if anything it would cause you to leak coolant or have bad compression.

 

purpleh22 what headgasket are you useing?

 

OEM is a three layer metal gasket. re-torquing them will not solve the overheating problem but will prevent any future problems when fixed. Yes they do need to be re-torqued. it doesn't mean it'll loosen and fly off but just enough to raise the head, it really doesn't take much.

 

I never re-tourqued, You may have other issues, check for air in the system, keep it simple first

 

yeah i've done all that, the system wont stop bubbleing even after 30 minutes at idle, so i beleive the headgasket is blown leaking air into the system, i still need to do a hydrocarbon test, by the car is at my brothers so ill have to wait.

 

I have cometic head gasket on my benson h22a1, ARP studs, i never re torqued them, i have NO issues with over heating running Gt30R as well!!

 

OEM, they and Cometic are metal shim or metal sheet type and have no fiber type 'sandwich' layer.

 

basemap or dyno tuned? if your lifting the head or blew the gasket your most likely running too much timing or a very lean mixture maybe both contributing to detonation/too much cylinder pressure. Give us some more info on what happened right before you noticed the overheating problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dartonh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i've done all that, the system wont stop bubbleing even after 30 minutes at idle, so i beleive the headgasket is blown leaking air into the system, i still need to do a hydrocarbon test, by the car is at my brothers so ill have to wait.</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO

HG is gone.

With our turboD16 I would re-torque the head after about 10 heat cycles. I would find a couple that moved.

I haven't heard of that same issue with B's not much knowledge on H's.

Granted D's are much easier to re-torque.

 

dyno tuned the timing is brought way back to be safe so to say, ive hada alot of overheating eversince i got the motor and cant seem to cure it, thats why im thinking its the cometic, idk. the last time i sunk a sleeve and warped the head, i had it all resufaced/decked and new valves put in, new piston and bearings as well, i really dont want to have to do this again, ita weird cuz at idle theres no problems but when it drives it over heats.

 

Let's go back to basics.

Fan blows in the right direction.

Heater hoses hooked up correctly

enough air gap between IC and Radiator

 

yeah ive done all that stuff, replace radiator with koyo dual core, two slim fans, new rad. cap, new thermostat and hoses pressure tested and holds, and it just bubbles every ten seconds all day, more and more if i rev it up a little.