Have a F23a1 with ARP head studs. Car is getting tunned right now, or was getting tuned. Any way, the problem is that after the tuner took the car out for the final tune before giving it back it startedt o leak coolant into the # 3&4 cyl's. Not that much though, but the spark plugs were wet. Pulled the valve cover to check the head studs and all were fine except one. It will turn and then torque, turn and then torque. It will keep dooing this. Its acting like its made out of rubber. The coolant in the radiator is still green and there is no signs of milkyness. Either this is the problem of I have sunk a sleeve. But this is the second time the motor has been run and I really don't think its a sunk sleeve, but could be.

The motor is built. CP pistons, Crower billet rods, re-sleeved, manley SS valves, OEM head gasket w/ copper spray, and the funny ARP head studs.

Does any one have any insight to this problem. It really has me worried and consered. I really don't have the money to do a complete re-build or have it re-sleeved if that is what it needs.

Thanks in advance.

 

did you blow out the head bolt holes with compressed air b4 putting the studs in ??? cus if not that could be the problem , or you have a stripped hole

 

Holes were cleaned out and gone through with a tap to thread chaser to clean them out before the stud was put in.

If the hole did strip out is there a fix?

 

timeserts ,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">timeserts , </TD></TR></TABLE>

Excuse my stuipidity, but what are these? Are they like a hela-coil.

By the way thanks for the quike replys

 

Yup sounds stripped to me.......... Had that happen with my Ls/Vtec. If you hela-coil it might not hold quite like stock....since its only one it might do...


Modified by Drkaccrd at 11:30 AM 5/26/2005

 

I had the same problem. Remove each of the nuts from the studs (one at a time if you're not pulling the head) and then when you're tightening them down with the allen key, wiggle the stud from side to side repeatedly. It's air getting trapped at the bottom of the stud making it feel rubbery, wiggling it gives the air a passage to escape. Go slowly, wiggle it often, and you will feel when it positively bottoms.

I had two that were very bad, tightened them all up and torqued. Came back a day later to find the studs were loose in the block, so I did the method I stated above and they're good now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem. Remove each of the nuts from the studs (one at a time if you're not pulling the head) and then when you're tightening them down with the allen key, wiggle the stud from side to side repeatedly. It's air getting trapped at the bottom of the stud making it feel rubbery, wiggling it gives the air a passage to escape. Go slowly, wiggle it often, and you will feel when it positively bottoms.

I had two that were very bad, tightened them all up and torqued. Came back a day later to find the studs were loose in the block, so I did the method I stated above and they're good now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I pulled the head last knight to my supprice this is exactly what I found. There were 3-4 of them like this. They were very loose un-screwing and I could wiggle them with my finger. I have to replace the head gasket any way so the head is off. But this time were also going to loc-tite them in. I called ARP and they said to do this if they keep doing this.

Thanks for the info. But this is exactly what happensd.

 

Remember the head is under alot of pressure. And the fact that its boosted im not sure loc-tite is gonna do the job. If those bolts are not stripped and its just not torqued right try and put it all back to together and hope for the best man.....Good luck