Tried searching but nothing really applied to the problem i'm having.

Setup:
92 Prelude Si
JDM H22a swap
Small Garrett "M10" T3 turbo internally gated
FMIC w 2.5" piping
Blox FMU 12:1
HKS knockoff bov
NGK BKR7ES plugs gapped at .033

Just finished installing my "junkyard turbo" setup. And just like everyone else, i wanted to go around the block a few times to see if it would hold boost/see if there were any problems.

Car does ok until it starts to build boost once it reaches about 3lbs and above it kinda sputters and runs like **** and def feels like its losing power. Does it at WOT and 50% throttle, doesn't matter. Does the same thing with and w/o the FMU hooked up same problem.

Before it get flammed and everyone tells me i need to ditch the fmu and get a real tuning software, those are my intentions, but $50 for the fmu seemed more reasonable right now to get the car running than forking all of the money out for the hondata.

Any ideas?...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmwright1986 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
NGK BKR7ES plugs gapped at .033
Does the same thing with and w/o the FMU hooked up same problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

right there are 2 problems. not bitching about the fmu being there, but you cant make up the fuel you need w/o it.

you have a missing link?
.033 a little fat for the gap?

you have an air fuel gauge?

 

right, i know its not gonna make up the fuel w/o it, i just uninstalled it for a few mins to see if maybe it wasnt installed right, and it made no difference.

yea i thought about goin a lil tighter on the plug gap, like between .028-.030 what do you think.

missing link; no

a/f gauge; as of right now all i have is a narrowband, so basically no on that also lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmwright1986 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right, i know its not gonna make up the fuel w/o it, i just uninstalled it for a few mins to see if maybe it wasnt installed right, and it made no difference.

yea i thought about goin a lil tighter on the plug gap, like between .028-.030 what do you think.

missing link; no

a/f gauge; as of right now all i have is a narrowband, so basically no on that also lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you should search missing link. I've never done it this way, but i do believe that you need it as it keeps your map sensor from seeing the boost. Which is likely why you are breaking up.... a proper base map &gt; fmu

 

from what i understand the stock map sensor only has problems when it reads over somethin like 11.3lbs of boost...the most i've seen my boost gauge read is about 8lbs.

so i didnt think i would need a missing link...

and i know a FMU is teh piece of **** compared to a proper tuning software lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmwright1986 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what i understand the stock map sensor only has problems when it reads over somethin like 11.3lbs of boost...the most i've seen my boost gauge read is about 8lbs.

so i didnt think i would need a missing link...

and i know a FMU is teh piece of **** compared to a proper tuning software lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bolded is the root of your problems - your parts and your ignorance.

The stock ECU will throw a CEL and go to a sort of limp mode every time it sees boost over 1psi. When running an FMU and an unchipped ECU, you have to use a missing link to keep the MAP sensor from seeing any boost. A chipped ECU with the right software can read to ~11psi on the stock sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bolded is the root of your problems - your parts and your ignorance.

The stock ECU will throw a CEL and go to a sort of limp mode every time it sees boost over 1psi. When running an FMU and an unchipped ECU, you have to use a missing link to keep the MAP sensor from seeing any boost. A chipped ECU with the right software can read to ~11psi on the stock sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is all true

so you will need a missing link if u want to run your FMU

it is really not that expensive to get a chipped ecu and run obd1

 

hmm i didnt know that it was any kind of positive pressure...like i said i thought it just gave you problems when it was over like 11lbs lol. oops

 

Yeah you don't have to go with Hondata BTW. Neptune or Crome will work and both are cheaper then Hondata.