Another new turbo install prob.
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Another new turbo install prob.
Tried searching but nothing really applied to the problem i'm having.
Setup:
92 Prelude Si
JDM H22a swap
Small Garrett "M10" T3 turbo internally gated
FMIC w 2.5" piping
Blox FMU 12:1
HKS knockoff bov
NGK BKR7ES plugs gapped at .033
Just finished installing my "junkyard turbo" setup. And just like everyone else, i wanted to go around the block a few times to see if it would hold boost/see if there were any problems.
Car does ok until it starts to build boost once it reaches about 3lbs and above it kinda sputters and runs like **** and def feels like its losing power. Does it at WOT and 50% throttle, doesn't matter. Does the same thing with and w/o the FMU hooked up same problem.
Before it get flammed and everyone tells me i need to ditch the fmu and get a real tuning software, those are my intentions, but $50 for the fmu seemed more reasonable right now to get the car running than forking all of the money out for the hondata.
Any ideas?...
Setup:
92 Prelude Si
JDM H22a swap
Small Garrett "M10" T3 turbo internally gated
FMIC w 2.5" piping
Blox FMU 12:1
HKS knockoff bov
NGK BKR7ES plugs gapped at .033
Just finished installing my "junkyard turbo" setup. And just like everyone else, i wanted to go around the block a few times to see if it would hold boost/see if there were any problems.
Car does ok until it starts to build boost once it reaches about 3lbs and above it kinda sputters and runs like **** and def feels like its losing power. Does it at WOT and 50% throttle, doesn't matter. Does the same thing with and w/o the FMU hooked up same problem.
Before it get flammed and everyone tells me i need to ditch the fmu and get a real tuning software, those are my intentions, but $50 for the fmu seemed more reasonable right now to get the car running than forking all of the money out for the hondata.
Any ideas?...
#2
Mr. Badwrench
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Re: Another new turbo install prob. (cmwright1986)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmwright1986 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
NGK BKR7ES plugs gapped at .033
Does the same thing with and w/o the FMU hooked up same problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
right there are 2 problems. not bitching about the fmu being there, but you cant make up the fuel you need w/o it.
you have a missing link?
.033 a little fat for the gap?
you have an air fuel gauge?
NGK BKR7ES plugs gapped at .033
Does the same thing with and w/o the FMU hooked up same problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
right there are 2 problems. not bitching about the fmu being there, but you cant make up the fuel you need w/o it.
you have a missing link?
.033 a little fat for the gap?
you have an air fuel gauge?
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
right, i know its not gonna make up the fuel w/o it, i just uninstalled it for a few mins to see if maybe it wasnt installed right, and it made no difference.
yea i thought about goin a lil tighter on the plug gap, like between .028-.030 what do you think.
missing link; no
a/f gauge; as of right now all i have is a narrowband, so basically no on that also lol.
yea i thought about goin a lil tighter on the plug gap, like between .028-.030 what do you think.
missing link; no
a/f gauge; as of right now all i have is a narrowband, so basically no on that also lol.
#4
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Re: (cmwright1986)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmwright1986 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right, i know its not gonna make up the fuel w/o it, i just uninstalled it for a few mins to see if maybe it wasnt installed right, and it made no difference.
yea i thought about goin a lil tighter on the plug gap, like between .028-.030 what do you think.
missing link; no
a/f gauge; as of right now all i have is a narrowband, so basically no on that also lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you should search missing link. I've never done it this way, but i do believe that you need it as it keeps your map sensor from seeing the boost. Which is likely why you are breaking up.... a proper base map > fmu
yea i thought about goin a lil tighter on the plug gap, like between .028-.030 what do you think.
missing link; no
a/f gauge; as of right now all i have is a narrowband, so basically no on that also lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you should search missing link. I've never done it this way, but i do believe that you need it as it keeps your map sensor from seeing the boost. Which is likely why you are breaking up.... a proper base map > fmu
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
from what i understand the stock map sensor only has problems when it reads over somethin like 11.3lbs of boost...the most i've seen my boost gauge read is about 8lbs.
so i didnt think i would need a missing link...
and i know a FMU is teh piece of **** compared to a proper tuning software lol
so i didnt think i would need a missing link...
and i know a FMU is teh piece of **** compared to a proper tuning software lol
#6
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Re: (cmwright1986)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmwright1986 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what i understand the stock map sensor only has problems when it reads over somethin like 11.3lbs of boost...the most i've seen my boost gauge read is about 8lbs.
so i didnt think i would need a missing link...
and i know a FMU is teh piece of **** compared to a proper tuning software lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bolded is the root of your problems - your parts and your ignorance.
The stock ECU will throw a CEL and go to a sort of limp mode every time it sees boost over 1psi. When running an FMU and an unchipped ECU, you have to use a missing link to keep the MAP sensor from seeing any boost. A chipped ECU with the right software can read to ~11psi on the stock sensor.
so i didnt think i would need a missing link...
and i know a FMU is teh piece of **** compared to a proper tuning software lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bolded is the root of your problems - your parts and your ignorance.
The stock ECU will throw a CEL and go to a sort of limp mode every time it sees boost over 1psi. When running an FMU and an unchipped ECU, you have to use a missing link to keep the MAP sensor from seeing any boost. A chipped ECU with the right software can read to ~11psi on the stock sensor.
#7
Re: (HiProfile)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bolded is the root of your problems - your parts and your ignorance.
The stock ECU will throw a CEL and go to a sort of limp mode every time it sees boost over 1psi. When running an FMU and an unchipped ECU, you have to use a missing link to keep the MAP sensor from seeing any boost. A chipped ECU with the right software can read to ~11psi on the stock sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is all true
so you will need a missing link if u want to run your FMU
it is really not that expensive to get a chipped ecu and run obd1
Bolded is the root of your problems - your parts and your ignorance.
The stock ECU will throw a CEL and go to a sort of limp mode every time it sees boost over 1psi. When running an FMU and an unchipped ECU, you have to use a missing link to keep the MAP sensor from seeing any boost. A chipped ECU with the right software can read to ~11psi on the stock sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is all true
so you will need a missing link if u want to run your FMU
it is really not that expensive to get a chipped ecu and run obd1
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
hmm i didnt know that it was any kind of positive pressure...like i said i thought it just gave you problems when it was over like 11lbs lol. oops
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