As the title states 9000 rpm all-motor F22 12:1 compression.

I have a 0.6L aluminum catch can with two 15mm inlet ports and two 15mm outlet ports that both go to small cone filters with K&N-like material. The inlet ports have two 1/2" inner diameter fuel/emission hoses going into them from the F22ax (90-93 Accord motor) breather and PCV ports located on the valve cover. PCV was eliminated.

Those with experience, do you feel this is adequate for a potential 9,000 RPM 12:1 all-motor setup? The size of this motor is 2207 cc/2.2L.

Thanks.


Modified by HondaFan81 at 3:34 PM 1/14/2008

 

You may be ok. I'm doing something similar but with the F23 bottom end. I will be tapping the front of the valve cover with two -10an lines. Then leaving the breather open with a filter and a closed catch can attached to the PCV valve. This set-up will give you the most but you should be ok with your's. If not then I would switch to some thing similar to this.

-----Just a side question. Do you have a thread going on cb7 tuner? If that is you great wright up Been following it for a while and reading alot.

 

Yes, I'm the guy from cb7tuner forum. Anyhow, if I wanted to add more ports on my F22ax valve cover, I would have to do it behind the internal baffling, otherwise I take the chance of oil getting into the ventilation hoses.

Anyhow, I need a better answer, it seems like you don't have experience with your setup and are in-progress. Anyone else? It can be any other high-rpm all-motor setup. I've done research on here and the internet in general with limited helpful results.

 

Anyone? I would appreciate any 9000 rpm motor advice on breather catch cans regarding my question. Is it adequate enough?

 

Anyone?

 

I think that it's highly dependant on the existing internal baffles and breather hose placement. I would keep the vents under the existing baffling and away from either side (left/right) if you intend to turn and keep them higher on the valvecover if you're going to be accelerating and braking hard. This will keep most of the oil that sloshes around out of the way of the breather hoses.

If you don't have much blow-by then it should not be that bad anyhow.

I think that 9000 rpm on a nonvtec that's 'streetable' is not very realistic unless you're useing a LOT of over-rev but that's just my opinion. I hope you get your header soon and I'm looking forward to numbers. I'm particularly interested in what the powerband looks like.

Pirate

 

i run to 9.5k usually.. I have pulled the holes in the back of the block.. and replaced them with nipples that i run to a breathable catch can.. and valvecover has a filter breather on it as well and it does fine, i removed and stopped up the stock pcv setup and the block box as well with a z10 block plug.


for future and searchable reference.. what in the living hell do you have to a f22 that makes u think you have power until 9k rpms..
Seriously, i've tuned a TON of h22's and f22's and f20b's etc etc..and those motors really dont make power past 7800ish or so.. do you have a Huge *** cam... or what..any "proof" your making power that high?

 

Thanks for the reply buddy. Yes, I'm still waiting on the header. I guess I'll leave my setup be as of now and see how it does, if I need more breathing, I will see that and adjust.

 

Cool, someone with experience in tuning H/F series. In addition to the mods I mentioned, I do have an aggressive camshaft, Bisimoto stage 3 and it's a hardweld cam. I have valve lifts in the 480/490 range. According to Bisi, he says the main powerband is from 5500-8600 rpm, so that is why I rounded to 9000 rpm. Ultimately, I do not know for sure, but I am preparing for the worst case to minimize future issues. It will make max power, wherever it does. I am also getting a Bisimoto street F22 header, but that has not come in yet. To clarify to everyone, this motor is already built and has 325 miles on it with good leakdown numbers, so it is close to getting its final tune.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFan81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the reply buddy. Yes, I'm still waiting on the header. I guess I'll leave my setup be as of now and see how it does, if I need more breathing, I will see that and adjust.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man, it looks as if my advice was right on par for what was going to be offered.

 

You can make any engine make high power. Numbers Honda used are not god set numbers you have to use (bore, rod length, chamber volume, port volume, CFM and velocity, runner length/plenum volume, lift, duration, lobe center, etc, etc etc.).

An F22 that peaks close to 9k is win in my book. Torque + high power + short gearing =

 

I did not mention that this motor is mated to a JDM H22 LSD 5spd tranny, but it is. So there is your short gearing, but larger final drive. It does 3800 rpm at 80 mph in 5th gear. I also chose the JDM version because it had a better 5th than the USDM (not to mention LSD).

 

Which JDM H22 trans....there are a few.

I think the Euro-R has the closest (stock) gear ratios availible.
Think the code is T2W4....

As far as the blowby tank is concerned, I think the above methods are precisely what you need.

2poin6 has served as inspiration for my build along with ALOT of input from Bisi.
When the time comes 2 -10AN's to the valve cover (above the baffles) to a Z10 can will be my weapon of choice.

Good luck with your build.
I too am looking forward to seeing your numbers (the F reportedly has much better flow).

Gen2H2B

 

M2B4 is the JDM H22 LSD 5spd trans that I have mated to this motor.

I too speak with Scott from Collective Racing and Bisi from Bisimoto Engineering. They have helped me on my project answering more difficult technical questions. Keep in mind that my F22ax SOHC motor already has to ports for crankcase ventilation in the stock valve cover above the baffles, however to make more than that I have to be careful in locating them. I'm going to see if the 2 stock ports are sufficient enough. The F22 also does not have the 2 rear block plugs that some Bseries have for a dual catch can setup, like I've seen on Endyn's site.

 

If you don't want to keep the current vents out of the valve cover you can drill out the port that use to be the factory port by the intake. This will open it up some, I had this on my turbo 99" accord. I also had the balancer shaft locating bolt taken out and a "an" fitting screwed in there to vent the block. and route a line back up to you can. Believe it or not I didn't have very much oil from the fitting I put in the block. I always emptied the can with every oil change. A 1qt can was about an 1/8 of the way full.