Just dynoed the turboed gsr for the first time after the custom turbo setup install.

On what used to be tom payne's mustang dyno I made 232.8whp at 160.2tq at 10psi.

I have the following


Bone stock b18c1 with 48k
t3/t4 57trim .63 a/r garrett turbochager custom ceramic coated
tial 38mm wastegate
gready type s bov
spoolin performance 28x9x3 intercooler
custom intercooler pipes
custom cold air intake
inline pro t3 cast iron log manifold ceramic coated
koyo half size radiator
3inch down pipe
custom 3inch exhaust


enginemanagement

hondata s300
xenocron p-28 socketed for hondata
xenocron obd2-obd1 conversion harness

electronics
apexi turbo timer
lm1 wideband
autometer sport comp 1 boost gauge
autometer sport comp 1 air/fuel gauge

My numbers seen low. I think everyone that knows this dyno would say it reads low.

 

even for a mustang dyno the numbers seem too low for 10psi on a 57 trim....

 

Yes they are too low. I think the dyno maybe messed up. I have my dyno sheet but I still gotta scan it.

I have a nice flat torque curve though.

I also have rc 440's which is plenty of fuel

 

they seem real low..

last two set ups with gsr's:

stock gsr, tubular log, 50 trim .48 exhaust, 12psi 300whp

stock gsr, ramhorn mani, t3/t04e, .48 exhaust, 11psi, 316whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by almostboostedgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes they are too low. I think the dyno maybe messed up. I have my dyno sheet but I still gotta scan it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

only one way to find out.....hit the track!! haha

 

The car pulls very hard to. I guess the only way is to take it to the track or have it put on a different mustang dyno.

 

It could be an error in the dyno itself. Also, if you plan to make a lot more power, you may want to consider upgrading to a larger injector.

 

Yeah I was thinking in the spring throwing on an edelbrock intake and changin out the injecters to rc 750's.

 

If you're going to change injectors, i assume to leave yourself room to upgrade, you're going to need a complete retune. You may as well get a GM3bar map sensor if you dont have one. If you dont get one and later need one, you will need ANOTHER retune since the values are so much different than the stock map. Just something to be aware of...

 

that dyno is notorious for low #'s.

more important...hows the car feel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by almostboostedgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just dynoed the turboed gsr for the first time after the custom turbo setup install.

On what used to be tom payne's mustang dyno I made 232.8whp at 160.2tq at 10psi.

I have the following


Bone stock b18c1 with 48k
t3/t4 57trim .63 a/r garrett turbochager custom ceramic coated
tial 38mm wastegate
gready type s bov
spoolin performance 28x9x3 intercooler
custom intercooler pipes
custom cold air intake
inline pro t3 cast iron log manifold ceramic coated
koyo half size radiator
3inch down pipe
custom 3inch exhaust


enginemanagement

hondata s300
xenocron p-28 socketed for hondata
xenocron obd2-obd1 conversion harness

electronics
apexi turbo timer
lm1 wideband
autometer sport comp 1 boost gauge
autometer sport comp 1 air/fuel gauge

My numbers seen low. I think everyone that knows this dyno would say it reads low. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, Jan's dyno reads HORRIBLY low, but the torque and powerband look dead on. I'm sorry I wasn't able to see your dyno tune. I was looking forward to seeing it..

It's equivalent to about 280whp or so from my calculations based upon Jan's dyno.. but really HP doesn't matter. How's it feel for drivability and pickup?

And use something other than the RC750 saturated. I've had nothing but problems with those in the last year. Use a Peak & Hold, and a resistor box, and retune when you build the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



And use something other than the RC750 saturated. I've had nothing but problems with those in the last year. Use a Peak & Hold, and a resistor box, and retune when you build the motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aren't saturated injectors better than peak and hold...????? thats what i was told by a very reputable tuner

 

I have a GSR with a 57 trim and I made 311whp on 10psi and 280whp on 7psi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

aren't saturated injectors better than peak and hold...????? thats what i was told by a very reputable tuner</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's no Better or worse for low impedence v. High impedence. The issue is to ensure that higher flowing injectors above 440cc should be high impedence. From some batches of injectors that needed to be repaired, it seems as though the 750 saturateds were 440ccs that had their pintles modified. That means, that yes, they work, but not for long (period of a couple of years). My last batch sent to my fuel system resource had over 140 sets of RC750s fail. they all had to be cleaned and repaired.

Delphi, Siemen Deka, Rochester, these use traditional impedence for both smaller and larger flowing injectors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GS-R Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a GSR with a 57 trim and I made 311whp on 10psi and 280whp on 7psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you. we've already stated that the dyno reads rather low. Its a heartbreaker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There's no Better or worse for low impedence v. High impedence. The issue is to ensure that higher flowing injectors above 440cc should be high impedence. From some batches of injectors that needed to be repaired, it seems as though the 750 saturateds were 440ccs that had their pintles modified. That means, that yes, they work, but not for long (period of a couple of years). My last batch sent to my fuel system resource had over 140 sets of RC750s fail. they all had to be cleaned and repaired.

Delphi, Siemen Deka, Rochester, these use traditional impedence for both smaller and larger flowing injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was told the saturated have better idle characteristics and run smoother in low low rpms

 

yes, my dyno gives lower numbers than most others, but you have to keep in mind that it's a loading chassis dyno, not a hub dyno, or free spinning roller dyno.

The bottom line is performance. The car pulls like a freight train, that's what matters.

Once the customer gets some good tires, it will be interesting to see what it does on the track.

For reference, my personal car made 295whp at 10Psig boost on this dyno and pulled 12.6s all day on street rubber.

The dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else

 

did you max out the injectors? regardless if the dyno reads low if its making the power it needs the fuel. i would expect those 440s to be at their limits with that combination of parts.

 

Horsepower numbers are nice, but track times are what really tell you what the car is capable of. If you saw my times, you'd wonder whether my car was boosted or stock I'm not good at racing just yet.

Also, i think Mike has a valid point...you may be nearing the max on those injectors...i would consider a retune on larger injectors in the future if you're still not satisfied

 

Our local mustang dyno reads 25% lower than our Dynojet does.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i was told the saturated have better idle characteristics and run smoother in low low rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on how you adjust your EMS too. But on paper, they should work better. And on paper a Cobalt SS should be fast...

The first car I worked on was my 90 civc, it was using uberdata to run a D16 with 780cc injectors. Idled better than any Honda I've driven.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Depends on how you adjust your EMS too. But on paper, they should work better. And on paper a Cobalt SS should be fast...

The first car I worked on was my 90 civc, it was using uberdata to run a D16 with 780cc injectors. Idled better than any Honda I've driven.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well my tuner is Tony1..... and my built turbo'd ls with crower 404 cams and 1000cc injectors idled great... those cams i've heard from other people give the ls a crappy idle... not mine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well my tuner is Tony1..... and my built turbo'd ls with crower 404 cams and 1000cc injectors idled great... those cams i've heard from other people give the ls a crappy idle... not mine</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's the physical manipulation of the injectors that concern me most, not the tuning aspect.

 

Some similarities with my setup, in sig...though I'm pushing 1 or 2 less psi. As long as the car runs/drives good I wouldn't worry about the numbers. I need to get to the track to see what it will run, that's the best way to figure out what kind of power ou are making.

 

The dyno numbers seem low. But you should get a better idea of power based on duty cycle of the injectors. Also what did you put in that the car weighted and the HP@50MPH? It should be 12.2 for B-series.