I am about to start putting in my cage and I just wanted to make sure this would be a good place for it. I would be putting the 6x6" plates on the side of the shock towers with a crosstube that would them mouth the rear bars. Just wanted to clarify. Please disregard the surge tank, that will be relocated lol.

 

looks good to me. keep in mind to use some angle in the forward bars to adapt some triangulation or put a X-brace between them maybe

 

that'd be fine. iv built a bunch of cages done just that way. 6x6 plates are not neccesary for that attatchment point though. the 6x6 plate somtimes needs a bit of convinicing to make fit! Just make sure the crosstube is the same or larger in size than the rest of the cage and you're god to go!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigTom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that'd be fine. iv built a bunch of cages done just that way. 6x6 plates are not neccesary for that attatchment point though. the 6x6 plate somtimes needs a bit of convinicing to make fit! Just make sure the crosstube is the same or larger in size than the rest of the cage and you're god to go!


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Did you use smaller plates or just weld the tube straight to the unibody? We used plates on my friends car just because the attachment point would be much stronger (spread the shear point over a much larger area). It probubly doesn't matter much, but I'd rather use a plate for any cage-unibody attachment point.

 

I always use plates for any unibody. Even though the tower itself has some thickness to it its still not a frame rail! for a civic shock tower I ussually cut out 2x5 or so plate and then make it work... 6x6 plates are only required for the front 4 mounting positions anyway...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigTom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always use plates for any unibody. Even though the tower itself has some thickness to it its still not a frame rail! for a civic shock tower I ussually cut out 2x5 or so plate and then make it work... 6x6 plates are only required for the front 4 mounting positions anyway... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I thought!

 

I tried to make my rear plates out of 6" square but It's nearly impossible back there. I ended up getting about 30sq in. of material per side. I'll post a pic when I get home and I would also recommend running the rear down tubes out towards the towers more.
The cage we did in our race car we used the same concept but put the cross bar slightly in front of the towers and angled the down tubes out to the towers onto the cross bar.
I'll post a pic to help clarify better.

 

wouldn't it be better if the bars went to the plate as well? just thought the cross bar between the shock towers might be more prone to bends with something joined to it in the middle, rather than at the end where it joins the plates on the shock towers.

 

We did this on an Evo that came in for a 10pt. so it should be ok for your setup.

 

Great, thanks alot guys. I will get started on it this weekend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91TSiGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We did this on an Evo that came in for a 10pt. so it should be ok for your setup.

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the angle of those rear bars is redicilous. No way to go through the rear deck?

 

the rear down tubes from the main hoop should attach to the plate/chassis directly. It is much strong this way.

In fact attaching the rear down tubes to any place but directly to a plate/chassis is not legal in NASA nor SCCA, and it can't get an FIA cert.

 

gonna have to get rid of the shiny takata harness's they arent SFI approved .. least u can rock them on the street still

 

Yeah Im doing the carge more for my personal saftey than anything else. I will just switch the harness at the track.