I have a d16a6 block. I can either put the stock head back on, OR I have d16z6 vtec head. I'm thinking it's a no-brainer to do the D16z6 head, BUT, I'm curious where my compression would end up with stock pistons, and if I have room to bump that up a little bit.

Gonna be an all motor build for now. Eagle Rods, no decision on pistons yet, some head work, new valves, springs retainers. and converting over to MPFI from DPFI. I'm hoping for about 140hp when done, and that seems reasonable, based on a bit more compression and flow from the heads. I'll send the ECU off for a new map.

Question #2, and I think I already know the answer to this. I have 2 different 5-speed transmissions to use. One says "SL3", the other says, "L3", I'm hoping they are the same, but honestly, I have no idea (did search, nothing on this site). Either ecu will be an improvement over the 4 speed in the car now. The SL3 came out of a 91 civic SI.

Last Question, and this is where I'm the weakest. I have 3 potential ECU's to use on the stock head. If I use the Vtec head, I believe I need a p28 obd1. My gut tells me to simply use the one that came with the car as it also matches the harness. Then re-wire for MPFI. Just not sure if there would be some other advantage to using either of the other 2 ecu's, that I am not aware of.

Many thanks to all that offer help.


Shot at 2007-10-19




Modified by vectorsolid at 3:55 AM 10/19/2007

 

Do a search for SMSP's d16 build it made over 140whp with a non-vtec head, and oem internals, Delta cam, skunk2 intake, and a good header. As for the ecu's I would switch to obd-1 because imo it is easier to find someone tune. If you have to stay obd-0 use the pm6 made in 91 I think it is easy to chip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S2R Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do a search for SMSP's d16 build it made over 140whp... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldn't find the thread. He's got about 5 with him as the creator, none relating to a D build.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1420377 Try this link, his motor was within two or three horsepower of mine (my set-up is in my sig).

 

SOHC BUILD FOR THE WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
heres mine
specs:zc piston, it up the compr to like 12 with the Z6 head.
blew .

 

also the L3 trans mission just states the year its from.
L2 - 88-89 crxs
L3 - 90-91 crxs
not sure about the SL3 . since u said its from a civic i guess it goes SL2 and SL3? correct me?
and yes i would def go with a P28 ecu. u will need ecu ,ecu conv harness and dizzy conv harness OBD0-OBD1 . the car will run better with OBD1

 

In for some info, i wanna build a NA setup for the hatch.

 

Turning into an interesting thread.

 

non vtec FTW!!!!! if going all motor vtec is overrated in a sohc.

go to this thread lots of great info. non vtec OWNS!!!!

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

if you already have the d16a6 a simple proven set-up would be

a6 block
p29 pistons off the d16a1 88-89 integra
z6 or y8 headgasket
and mill the head maybe .020

you got around if not a tiny bit close to 12 to1 compression

plus add a exospeed cam or a bisi stage 2 and your golden

if you plan on staying with the pm6 get it chipped for turboedit. church automotive and Whitfield racing tunes turboedit. if you want to convert obd1 while staying non vtec you need the td41u dizzy off the b7 (92-95 civic dx) and p06 ecu off the same car. get the ecu chipped to run crome.and you need a obd0-obd1 ecu jumper and 4 wire o2 sensor and dizzy jumper from rywire.com.


for the amount your going to spend on doing a mini me you can make the non vtec faster. lol i have a couple murdered mini set-up's under my belt. trust me they work for some and for some they don't.


Modified by 661rex89si at 10:38 PM 10/19/2007

 

Thanks 661rex, I'm gonna read up a bit more on that.

When I said 140, I meant, like base, like before I boost it. Like a really good solid NA engine, then boost it. I really would like to dip in the 12's, if I'm honest with myself.

I don't know that 140hp is gonna dip a 12, or for that matter even in the 14's. BUT, I have no experience there yet. But I have a reasonable amount of experience with power to weight ratio's and traction, and in the back of my mind, I have a high level of confidence that 140 ain't gonna dip me a 12.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vectorsolid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks 661rex, I'm gonna read up a bit more on that.

When I said 140, I meant, like base, like before I boost it. Like a really good solid NA engine, then boost it. I really would like to dip in the 12's, if I'm honest with myself.

I don't know that 140hp is gonna dip a 12, or for that matter even in the 14's. BUT, I have no experience there yet. But I have a reasonable amount of experience with power to weight ratio's and traction, and in the back of my mind, I have a high level of confidence that 140 ain't gonna dip me a 12.</TD></TR></TABLE>


nope for 12's you would need a pretty light chassis and around 180hp i think. high 12's by the way. you want 12's easy boost it then do the whole vitara set-up. allmotor takes more work which i don't mind but if you do then boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 661rex89si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


nope for 12's you would need a pretty light chassis and around 180hp i think. high 12's by the way. you want 12's easy boost it then do the whole vitara set-up. allmotor takes more work which i don't mind but if you do then boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am absolutely stripping this particular car. I'm even taking the time to remove that tar paper crap from inside, any piece of trim, no dash, carpet, extra flanges and mounting tabs for things like seats have been removed, wipers and motors, gutted doors, everything, stripped. Even the rubber that seals the doors... gone... let it rattle... ...lol...

You obviously have a power to weight ratio you feel will run a 12. As do I actually. What do you feel it takes a 1700 pound car to run say a 12.5? Given a talented driver and traction.

I estimate a power to weight ratio of 7.5-8.0 to be a 12 second car. If a person does the math on enough road and track and motor trend tests, you come up with some pretty close guesses.

180hp in a 1700 pound car, I'm gonna say is a mid 13's car, at about 9.4:1 power to weight.

I'm guessing 220hp or so on 1700 pounds to run in the 12's. Puts you about 7.7:1

Here's something fun I've been plugging numbers into that seems pretty close actually. "...Difference between a 12.5 and 15sec car is a doubling of the power to weight ratio...." If you have a 100hp car running 15's, you'll need 200hp to run in the 12's.

Play with that a bit. I think it's a VERY close, yet ROUGH, place to start.

I'd rather have 300hp on an 1800 pound chassis, putting you at about 6:1, and a less gutted car. Could leave in the factory glass, some carpet, wipers, maybe a CD player and a small speaker to make street driving a bit more fun.

Fun to discuss.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vectorsolid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am absolutely stripping this particular car. I'm even taking the time to remove that tar paper crap from inside, any piece of trim, no dash, carpet, extra flanges and mounting tabs for things like seats have been removed, wipers and motors, gutted doors, everything, stripped. Even the rubber that seals the doors... gone... let it rattle... ...lol...

You obviously have a power to weight ratio you feel will run a 12. As do I actually. What do you feel it takes a 1700 pound car to run say a 12.5? Given a talented driver and traction.

I estimate a power to weight ratio of 7.5-8.0 to be a 12 second car. If a person does the math on enough road and track and motor trend tests, you come up with some pretty close guesses.

180hp in a 1700 pound car, I'm gonna say is a mid 13's car, at about 9.4:1 power to weight.

I'm guessing 220hp or so on 1700 pounds to run in the 12's. Puts you about 7.7:1

Here's something fun I've been plugging numbers into that seems pretty close actually. "...Difference between a 12.5 and 15sec car is a doubling of the power to weight ratio...." If you have a 100hp car running 15's, you'll need 200hp to run in the 12's.

Play with that a bit. I think it's a VERY close, yet ROUGH, place to start.

I'd rather have 300hp on an 1800 pound chassis, putting you at about 6:1, and a less gutted car. Could leave in the factory glass, some carpet, wipers, maybe a CD player and a small speaker to make street driving a bit more fun.

Fun to discuss. </TD></TR></TABLE>

way to do your math **** i didnt go that extreme lol. but you do know that a d-series at 180 hp compared to a b-series at the same hp is way different the d-series is faster. food for thought. the homie Djsgtrip with a all motor D set-up which im not sure how much hp he is pushing i do know for a fact its no where near 190-225hp. an he ran a 13.13@101 D16Z6 1950lbs w/driver in a ef hatch.

 

Could be some kind of crazy curve too. Like easier to accelerate less mass, so less HP is okay, not a dead even thing.

I do the math thing so I know where to spend my budget...

Right now, I wouldn't mind spending some money on fiberglass doors. If they made them for the car, can't find them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vectorsolid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be some kind of crazy curve too. Like easier to accelerate less mass, so less HP is okay, not a dead even thing.

I do the math thing so I know where to spend my budget... </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey whatever works man

 

check out his old thead.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1572806