1998 gsr with 169k. Ran a compression test with an older tester and got 180 across the board, so im hoping with a new one the numbers should yeild a little bit higher. I do burn some oil but not crazy amounts. Using some crappy oil at the moment to so that dosent help. Dosent smoke or anything. My gas milage is okay, im getting about 220 to the tank using 93 octane. Might have somehting to do with only having one o2 sensor and a mix between city and highway driving. Miles on the car are mostley all highway.

What do you guys think. Planning on running low boost (8psi) on a t3/t4 .50 trim.


Modified by 401tuner at 3:52 PM 9/27/2007

 

Why stop at 8psi on a 50 trim? I'd shoot for 300whp and use whatever psi you need to get there...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why stop at 8psi on a 50 trim? I'd shoot for 300whp and use whatever psi you need to get there...</TD></TR></TABLE>

because i figured it wouldent be safe, lol idk im trying to keep it reliable and thats why im asking you guys what you think.

 

Even if they are highway miles that sounds kinda high to be shooting for 300whp and it being reliable. Even if some guys have ran their turbo set-ups for two years or so and had no kind of problem it's still not as reliable as stock. I'm not downing turbo set-ups at all, my car is turbo'd. But I'm a firm believer that if your going to do a turbo car then don't take short cuts. Rebuild the motor first with good quality parts to ensure that it'll last you. Even if you rebuild with OEM parts you need to refresh that thing.

 

yea im not shooting for 300whp thats the thing. He asked why i was only planning on running 8psi, instead of running more and shooting for 300. I dont want that much power at this point.

 

ive turboed higer mileage motors than that that lasted plenty.

if you dont tune it, thats whats going to cause it to wear much faster.

 

as long as its tuned well, there's no reason to worry....if you tune at 8psi, you'll end up retuning later at higher boost. That's what i ended up doing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive turboed higer mileage motors than that that lasted plenty.

if you dont tune it, thats whats going to cause it to wear much faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand that but a motor that old it's going to have stress on it and by turboing your just going to add more stress to the motor. From my personal view that is too many miles on the motor for me to turbo it. And they're right after that first little taste of boost your going to want more. Has the car's routine maintenance been done. Like has it had a timing belt job done on it and a new water pump? These are things to consider when talking about adding stress to the motor. Also are you ready to pay for the maintenance that comes from turboing. You gotta consider everything that may go wrong.

 

i turbo'ed my crx and the motor had 250k on it. I used an FMU and check valves. I know its not the proper way to do it, so I dont want to hear any ****, but it works. I'm not saying to go that route, if i had the money when i did it it would have hondata, but i didnt. its still running over a year and a half later with over 300k, I just had to replace the head on it though ( just a head gasket, but i had a fresh head laying around). its all in how well the motor has been taken care of. when I pulled the head off it didnt look like a 300k motor, but it was.
And I used to drive it to school, over 100 miles round trip everyday. its all in how you take care of it.

 

It'll last with high quality parts and the right tuner.

With low quality parts, and a poor tune it won't last. I've boosted 300,000+KM engines (im in canada) and they've lasted fine. I've boosted a 90,000km engine, and it lasted 2 months. All depends on the steup/tune.

 

oh yea im using all good quality parts, garrett t3/t4 .50 trim, tial 38mm wastegate, dumptube, autoworks log manifold, autoworks 2.5 inch downpipe, ect. at first ill be running on a chipped and socketed ecu that has a basemap from greg at autoworks. Do you guys think its fine to drive on that for a little while untill i get it tuned.

 

i if you can handle your self not to go into boost yes it should be fine but that is really hard to do

 

ill obvisouly go into boost, whats the point of a turbo if your not going to go into boost lol. Not planning on beating the **** out of it but drive it consertive.

 

Then do yourself a favor and get boost cut @ 1 psi so you dont ruin your engine. Get the turbo on, work out any issues then drive it to a tuner. If u cant goto a tuner right away then dont drive your car till you can. Youre risking too much.

 

im in the same boat. I have been told the same thing. Don't boost it unless you get it tuned. Is getting a boost cut at 1psi just setting the wastegate to that or is it something you put on?

 

so is it even worth buying the chipped and socketed ecu with a basemap on it, if im just going to get it tuned?

 

well what are you tuning the car with? I am going to use hondata S100 with a basemap on it to take it a shop when i get the turbo put on. I wouldn't drive it around without becuase you might have a change of damaging or causing something to go wrong. Once you tune it you know its going to run right.

 

ill most likley be tuning the car on crome, but i dont know if its worth the extra 225 bucks just to get the ecu with a basemap on it?

 

i think thats kind of a lot to get ecu with a basemap on it. I would just get it tuned asap once you put the kit on it.

 

if you have a basemap, you can use an autometer AFR to see if your overly rich/lean, and your basemapper can set a 1psi boost cut. something to keep it in check.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 401tuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so is it even worth buying the chipped and socketed ecu with a basemap on it, if im just going to get it tuned?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you need a chipped and socketed basemap IN ORDER to get tuned....they cant just toss a tune on your stock ECU. Pick up a chipped and socketed P28 w/ a basemap tailored to your setup along w/ a conversion harness for your car. I've bought from both Phearable and J-K-Tuning a few times and have had good luck w/ both. Also Xenocron is a good guy to buy from.

-Chipped P28 w/ basemap (tell them your setup and they'll help you out)
-Conversion harness (obd2a DC2 is 96-99....obd2b is 00+)