i plan on having my car dynotuned. should the tuner have one that they can just plug up and tune because if i can save a good $300, i'd rather spend it towards a s300. i was planning on welding an o2 right on the first 90 degree bend d.p. from the turbine housing. how close does this thing have to be? i'm planning on making 400whp if that makes a difference.

 

for peace of mind id say get it u have invested cash in your set-up im sure you blow your cash on more useless things on a weekend compared to getting a wideband.....think about it

 

true but if the tuner already has one and you only need it when tuning the car, save the cash for something else with the project...

 

you can never go wrong with always having on in your car i have on in my car all the time and have s300 theres no piuont nickel and dimeing it

 

isn't it only used when tuning? (besides the gauge)

 

ya but it doesnt hurt to leave it in lol

 

so in other words it's used to tune the car, not run it. so not having one wouldn't hurt if you're going to have a tuner how already has one tune it for you... correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teddy_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so in other words it's used to tune the car, not run it. so not having one wouldn't hurt if you're going to have a tuner how already has one tune it for you... correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct. it will do nothing but display your a/f.

they are suggesting always having one in so if something happens and you go lean, you will be aware of the problem before your motor just blows.

 

it'll help you monitor your engine's conditions and give you a heads up if something is really messed up or on it's way to be messed up. it only takes one lean condition to destroy your engine and a stupid little guage is just an extra way to keep an eye out it...
read through this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2106714
It covers wideband's/afr guages in there a little, I'm too lazy to search for you and that one is in my "watched topics"

 

i've been searching and found this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2096374
on page 2 is another link to a great thread....
i was looking into the innovate xd-16, so to my understanding the d-16 is only the gauge, and the LC-1 is the O2 and cable need to make it complete? together off some site for $399... can't seem to find that link... (wow a $200 gauge, why not those $50 autometer ones?)

 

Try out the plx systems. They are not too expensive and work great.

 

so if you don't plan on street tune or diy tuning then you don't need one? will those $50 autometer gauges do in terms or reading a/f ratio accurately?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teddy_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if you don't plan on street tune or diy tuning then you don't need one? will those $50 autometer gauges do in terms or reading a/f ratio accurately?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those gauges are a 1 volt gauge. Wideband's are a 5 volt. Meaning, a 5 volt sweep will read from 9.xx:1 to 20.xx:1 in most cases. The traditional 1 volt will only read anything below or above 14.7:1. Meaning, 11:1 and 14.1:1 will both show rich on a 1 volt gauge. Same goes for lean conditions. So to answer your question, no, that gauge will not suffice.

 

didnt read the replies, but:

one question, is the car boosted?
yes = you need a wideband.

 

anyone know how the AEM Wideband is? the UEGO.. or whatever its called.

 

A wideband is just as important as an RPM gauge IMO.

It can pay for itself very quickly if anything happens to your fuel system. It can also save you time trying to troubleshoot a problem as well.

if you cant afford one than you cant afford 400whp. sorry.

 

Heres an issue that i had today that i was able to draw conclusions from having a wideband to keep tabs.......

Out of nowhere i had a check engine light come on and my idle went to 1400rpms. I also noticed that in normal driving conditions my AF was in the mid 12's where normally it was 14's. So obviously something was wrong that made me start to run pretty rich. I knew it wasnt the knock or o2 sensor (disabled) so i figured it had to be IACV or ECT sensor or the like......... Sure enough i was throwing an ECT code and come to find out it came unplugged.

Its just a useful tool that every tuned car should have......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It can pay for itself very quickly if anything happens to your fuel system. It can also save you time trying to troubleshoot a problem as well.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A wideband is just as important as an RPM gauge IMO.

It can pay for itself very quickly if anything happens to your fuel system. It can also save you time trying to troubleshoot a problem as well.

if you cant afford one than you cant afford 400whp. sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A wideband is just as important as an RPM gauge IMO.

It can pay for itself very quickly if anything happens to your fuel system. It can also save you time trying to troubleshoot a problem as well.

if you cant afford one than you cant afford 400whp. sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE>very true

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teddy_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(wow a $200 gauge, why not those $50 autometer ones?)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Innovate has a much cheaper gauge called the DB series. Packaged with the LC-1 it's only $289:
http://www.innovatemotorsports...age=1

The reason the XD-16 costs more is because it's programmable to be a gauge for any input you feed it, not just a wideband. It also has a button on it that lets you do stuff like record datalogs and reset the O2 calibration from the gauge itself. I bought mine 2 years ago before they had the cheaper ones, and I've never regretted it.

 

what ever you do don't get a narrowabnd like the autometer ones they are very inaccurate! i use a plx device i like them alot! if your going to keep it in your car make sure you dont get the lm-1 that thing is a brick lol they are a great device i perfer them but if your going to keep it in your car its a no lol

the uego units are very nice i have a friend that runs one with no problems! i would reccommend that for your set up fits in a gauge face i think they are around 280

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you cant afford one than you cant afford 400whp. sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the question was if i needed one or not, not if i can afford one, after spending more than 10k on the car why wouldn't i be able to afford one? i just didn't want to buy something if it wasn't really needed. if it's crucial and simplifies life then i guess i'll put more thoughts into it. i see a lot of my buddies run 280-325whp without one, i thought that maybe a bit more wouldn't matter that much.... i'm leaning more towards the xd-16 if i do end up getting one...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teddy_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the question was if i needed one or not, not if i can afford one, after spending more than 10k on the car why wouldn't i be able to afford one? i just didn't want to buy something if it wasn't really needed. if it's crucial and simplifies life then i guess i'll put more thoughts into it. i see a lot of my buddies run 280-325whp without one, i thought that maybe a bit more wouldn't matter that much.... i'm leaning more towards the xd-16 if i do end up getting one...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check out Chris with Xenocron tuning.......... he should be able to hook u up.

 

The answer to your question is no, you do not need one. The tuner will either have one that goes in your downpipe, or one that clips on your tailpipe.

The reason everyone is suggesting that you get one anyway is for peace of mind. You are going to have a built motor making 400 hp, any extra monitoring you can do on the health of the engine is just good sense.

Just because the car will be tuned doesn’t mean the AFR will always stay the same forever. Keeping tabs on the AFR will let you know if something is going on.

An Autometer AF gauge is nothing more than a closed loop / open loop indicator and would offer no real information.

Again, you don’t HAVE to, but it is highly highly recommended.