Does the slave cylinder have a one way check valve? (I have a Civic VX)
I read in the archives that the helms mentioned the slave cylinder has a one way check valve. if this is true, I can keep the bleeder open until i'm done with the bleeding process. I only read about it in one post. If this was true, I would have seen it in more than one post (I assume).

So is it true?
Gary

 

no

if you leave it open and pump the clutch you will be sucking air back into the system.

 

Thanks.. I guess that guy was wrong.

See Eee Pee's post here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=551027

Here is an excerpt:

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Want help?
Search for it...it's been covered.

But anyways, the slave cylinder has a one way check valve.

Open the 8mm on the slave, pump pedal two to three times slowly,
add fluid in resivoir. Repeat. No need to open and close the 8mm like brakes.
This is from the Helms manual.

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Gary

 

its not a one way valve. i do one man clutch bleeds all the time. open reservoir cap and leave it off the clutch cylinder and make sure you have enough fluid (make sure during the entire process aswell) put hose to nipple and have a bottle for the excess to go into, open valve until you see a drop come out, then push your clutch (slow so the fluid in the bowl doesnt splash) all the way down till it stops and leave it there (it will actually stay down by itself) then close nipple, and then pull clutch back up. repeat until your satisfied and remember to fill bowl if fluid gets low



you will get many opinions, but if you dont try it then you will never now what works and what doesnt. i hope you try this and post back what your results were.

very similiar to everyone saying when you bleed brakes you have to do it from farthest to the closes. actually it doesnt matter which caliper you bleed and in any order (like i said it all depends on what you are willing to try to see what works)

good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garyhgaryh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Open the 8mm on the slave, pump pedal two to three times slowly,
add fluid in resivoir. Repeat. No need to open and close the 8mm like brakes.
This is from the Helms manual.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and yes he's wrong, because if the valve is open the clutch pedal will stay on the floor. so theres no way to keep pumping unless you pull it back up&gt;&gt;which if the valve is still open will let in air.

 

I have a vacuum pump brake bleeder system I am going to use for the slave. I assume if I use that, I will not have to pump the clutch pedal since I'm just pumping it out through the nipple.

Gary

 

ive never use any pump device so i assume it will work. and like i said if you read my instructions your not pumping anything anyway. its more like pushing LOL. clutch bleeding is different from brake bleeding. clutch you push/pull ,brakes you pump/hold

 

Eee Pee is not wrong, it's exactly what the Helms tells you to do.

page 12-6 of 1995 Civic FACTORY manual.

2. Bleed the clutch hydrauic system.

.....Attach a hose to the bleeder screw and suspend the hose in a container of brake fluid.

.....Make sure their is an adequate supply of fluid at the master cylinder, the slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleederhose.

.....Refil the master cylinder fluid when done.

......Use only DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid.


note: never states to open or close the bleeder screw

 

Ah, i found another post that indicates there may be a check valve in some civics:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1656141

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From: Archidictus

Funny thing about EG and EK Civic clutch slave cylinders: You don't have to close the valve between pumps. Just fill the master cylinder, open the valve and pump the clutch pedal 7 or 8 times with your hand, refill, repeat until you're positive that there isn't any more air in the lines. Some of you won't believe me, but this is how I've done the past 3 or 4 swaps that have come through my garage and the clutches have all worked like a charm
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I wonder if this is true for the '93 VX? (You mention you saw it in the '95 manual)

I'm just going to use my vacuum pump to pump the fluid out.

Car is almost on the road. All I need to do is fill the tranny with oil and see if my tranny rebuild was successful.

By the way Mista, do you see any problems filling the tranny with straight 10w40 oil (Castro GTX or Pennzoil TrueBase?/Clearbase?). The Haynes manual says use engine oil.

Gary


Modified by garyhgaryh at 12:03 PM 7/23/2007

 

been awhile since I've had to bleed mine, the clutch MC leaks enough as it is

I did try using a speed bleeder on the slave, didn't work.

It's one of those things I wanna test myself.

 

Hi Mista,
Not sure if you saw this:

==========================
By the way Mista, do you see any problems filling the tranny with straight 10w40 oil (Castro GTX or Pennzoil TrueBase?/Clearbase?). The Haynes manual says use engine oil.
==========================

I should probably create a new post for this..
Gary


Modified by garyhgaryh at 12:03 PM 7/23/2007

 

92-95 trannys call for 10w30 or 10w40 SF/SG motor oil.

Doubt you'd get the oil hot enough to matter between w30 and w40, I've never had a bearing failure using motor oil.

Redline MTF has killed a few bearing cages. Something in the oil or additives eats the plastic bearing cages.

 

Thank ya Mista!