What's redline on a stock 99 Hatch motor?

Mine hatch didn't come with a tach so I just swapped one in from a 98 EX coupe. Now I have a tach, but don't know if the redline on the tach is correct for my motor.

Am I gonna pop my motor if I rev it to the EX redline?

 

you wont be able to rev to the ex redline just because you put the cluster in. what model is your car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dannis. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you wont be able to rev to the ex redline just because you put the cluster in. what model is your car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't matter what model. The D16Y7 in the hatchboxes revs to 6.5-7k. Somewhere in there. Just like rocky dannis said, you wont be able to rev to the EX redline just because of the cluster. Your fuel cut is set at whatever factory rev limit is. Even if it wasnt....blow up, rinse, repeat.

 

You should be able to fell where your car stops making power, that's where you shift.

more Rpms do not = More power. Power is only made as far as your valvetrain is capable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should be able to fell where your car stops making power, that's where you shift.

more Rpms do not = More power. Power is only made as far as your valvetrain is capable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but by shifting at redline, you usually put yourself in the powerband for the next gear. If you shift right after or right at your powerband....then you're out of your power band in the next gear. This works better on "performance" motors.

take for example, a very simple B16A. If you shift at redline, you will be pretty much right at 6k in the next gear. I think the powerband STARTS there for that motor. Same for the D16Z6, Y8 or B18C...etc.

 

Yeah, I realize that putting another cluster in hasn't changed anything inside the motor or inside the brain. The motors true safe redline hasn't changed at all simply because I swapped in a different cluster. I'm just wondering if my new redline on the tach is accurate or is a "decoy".

Gathered from search, my car is a:
&gt; EJ6 D16Y7 USDM All 3-door CX/DX

while my new cluster is from a:
&gt; EJ8 D16Y8 USDM All 2-door/4-door EX

They're both about 1.6L But the Y8 has a little higher compression and performance numbers as well as VTEC which the Y7 doesn't have.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
&gt; What's the difference between the Y7 and the y8 motors?
&gt; From what I understand, the blocks are pretty much the same,
&gt; but the Y8 block has a knock sensor. The Y8 has the squared combustion
&gt; chambers, which bumps its compression up over the rest of the
&gt; 6th gen D series blocks. I think it's something like 9.6:1 C/R for the Y8. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I suspect the Y8's "on paper" redline is higher than the Y7's but can't find numbers for the Y7.

 

bump for a pa member

 

lmao rocky dannis


well il definitnely tell you this...on a D series you are definitely NOT shifting into any powerband no matter how much you rev the **** out of it..ESPECTIALLY if its stock...im pretty sure only b seriers motors do that...i know for sure the GSR does

 

stock dx motor redlines at 7200 rpms...but i wouldn't recommend that, you will get a spun rod later one...take care of the gas saving beast man...stay away from the redline...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek4_b16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock dx motor redlines at 7200 rpms...but i wouldn't recommend that, you will get a spun rod later one...take care of the gas saving beast man...stay away from the redline...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? Honda deemed it safe to rev to 7200 rpm. If they thought that it was bad for the motor, they would have dialed it down. I mean obviously, revving ANY motor to redline all the time will cause it to wear out prematurely...but usually D series are pretty conservatively built. I say rev the hell out of it. It's fun. I mean dont drive like a jackass.....but when you're alone on the road, and nobody can see how slow your D series is...you know....

OP: I think the D16Y8 redline is pretty close to the Y7 redline. A copule of hundred (like...1 to 3 hundred RPM) really wont hurt the motor too much.

 

A '96-'00 Civic hatchback would mean it's either a CX or a DX, which both come with the SOHC non-VTEC engine called the D16Y7.

This D16Y7 is also found in the DX coupe, DX sedan and LX sedan. I'm not sure offhand of the other cars, but the LXes do come with a stock tachometer.

Being the same engine, all of the above cars redline the same.

This cluster is actually perfect for your car if you would like to have a stock tachometer. This cluster is from an LX sedan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This D16Y7 is also found in the DX coupe, DX sedan and LX sedan. I'm not sure offhand of the other cars, but the LXes do come with a stock tachometer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

NOFX, Thanks for that pic.

I snapped a pic of my EX cluster and tach for comparison and you can see that the redline is higher than the one you posted from the LX. It appears that the EX coupe redlined at just under 7000 (like 6950) while the LX redlined a couple hundred RPM below that (like maybe 6800).







That small difference probably won't make much difference, but if doing it again, it seems I would have been better off snagging a cluster from an LX sedan instead of the EX coupe?

And timely too... Here's what happens to your stock D16Y7 if you don't pay any attention to redline. Might not happen the first or second time, but it's gonna happen: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2011454

HAHA! Anyone want to trade an LX tach for an EX tach?