ls/vtec turbo? built head stock block
im doing a ls/vtec turbo for a customer, and its a built b16 head w/full crower int... w/stage 2. going to be bolted on a b18a block, all stock. and i was wondering what is the most it will boost w/a gt t4/t4 turbo kit.
stock rods will be your weakest link in this build. 300 whp can be had reliably, but it really depends on the tune.
might want to read through this thread a bit.
its the LS-V-T thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1509557
might want to read through this thread a bit.
its the LS-V-T thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1509557
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by confucioussae »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock rods will be your weakest link in this build. 300 whp can be had reliably, but it really depends on the tune.
might want to read through this thread a bit.
its the LS-V-T thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1509557</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock rod bolts are the weak links not the actually rods themself if you swap them out with ARP 5/16 or 3/8th (i forgot which one) thy arent bad
might want to read through this thread a bit.
its the LS-V-T thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1509557</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock rod bolts are the weak links not the actually rods themself if you swap them out with ARP 5/16 or 3/8th (i forgot which one) thy arent bad
That's agreed, stock rod bolts are the first obstacle with LS rods. Tie in a trimetal ACL bearing, with some new ARP rod bolts and you've got a descent stock rod. You can actually race prep stock rods and add around 20-25 percent more strength. Things like reducing stress risers, and removing the rod casting line, then having the rod shotpeened.
I dont think a stock block will he able to hold a t4 set-up... You're are talking about stock piston too i assume?
The rod bolts will be a weak link when rev are increase but in this case the bottom end wont be able to hold the power that will produce either, it would atleast need a piston/rod set-up
The rod bolts will be a weak link when rev are increase but in this case the bottom end wont be able to hold the power that will produce either, it would atleast need a piston/rod set-up
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont think a stock block will he able to hold a t4 set-up... You're are talking about stock piston too i assume?
The rod bolts will be a weak link when rev are increase but in this case the bottom end wont be able to hold the power that will produce either, it would atleast need a piston/rod set-up</TD></TR></TABLE>
the stock bottom end is pretty strong just most people choose to upgrade since the block is already taken apart anyway. the stock crank can hold over 800hp, the stock rods with ARP bolts and good clearence bearings are good for atleast 450-550hp granted you dont over rev to 8000 or more or downshift consistantly.
also another thing you gotta remember with any part is that shotpeening and heat treating the same part can sometimes make the metal brittle and actually increase the chance of the rod itself snapping instead do cyrotreating
The rod bolts will be a weak link when rev are increase but in this case the bottom end wont be able to hold the power that will produce either, it would atleast need a piston/rod set-up</TD></TR></TABLE>
the stock bottom end is pretty strong just most people choose to upgrade since the block is already taken apart anyway. the stock crank can hold over 800hp, the stock rods with ARP bolts and good clearence bearings are good for atleast 450-550hp granted you dont over rev to 8000 or more or downshift consistantly.
also another thing you gotta remember with any part is that shotpeening and heat treating the same part can sometimes make the metal brittle and actually increase the chance of the rod itself snapping instead do cyrotreating
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