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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by olddohc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a b16 swap before and it was great, this time i want to go boost, i have a 90 ls tranny, axles, etc. where do i go from here do i get a b16, b18b, or b20 with turbo, i want to rev high, what would i need to do to get a b18b or a b20 to rev to 8200 like a b16 so i can maximize boost, and if i just boost a stock motor right off the bat what motor can handle it the best, obviously b18 or b20 cuz the compression is way lower but out of those two which is better thanks, ps i also have a 90 ls motor but it has way too many miles(175k) is it worth it to keep that and build it</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't make this out, well I can but now i'm nearly queasey.

The ls tranny might as well sell now before you hate it once it's installed.

Plan something out,
from what the pile of letters you threw out and called a post let me think is you want high rpm and boost.

How much money do you have what do you do with the car?

 

boost and most power on a stock engine is my first goal, i thought the ls tranny would be good for the freeway and would work better with a b18 or b20 got about 2000 bux

 

why is everyone always hating on ls trannys? if you have a b18 or b20 and are planning for boost, use it

 

b16 tranny are good for the track cuz it has short gears but if u planing on boosting ur car stick with ur ls tranny unless u get lucky and u can get ur self a (92-93 Gsr B17) tranny which some of them come stock with lsd then yeah get rid of ur ls tranny ...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by olddohc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">boost and most power on a stock engine is my first goal, i thought the ls tranny would be good for the freeway and would work better with a b18 or b20 got about 2000 bux</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if you want a stock engine, its not boosted, or are you saying you want the most power with stock insides?

You really need to type a bit easier for us to understand, i'm happy to help but I can't figure what in gods name you want.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is everyone always hating on ls trannys? if you have a b18 or b20 and are planning for boost, use it </TD></TR></TABLE>
Stop that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF288Gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16 tranny are good for the track cuz it has short gears but if u planing on boosting ur car stick with ur ls tranny unless u get lucky and u can get ur self a (92-93 Gsr B17) tranny which some of them come stock with lsd then yeah get rid of ur ls tranny ...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You too.

LS TRANNY IS LONGER GEARED LONGER GEARS ARE NOT BETTER FOR BOOST. The next person who says that I shall summon Kjat my dragon, and he will pull your lungs out.

LS tranny is good for one thing, milage. It's got taller gears, simple gear math explains this
shorter gears = faster
longer gears = higher top speed

That's your Forza motor sports break down there is so much more with picking exact gearing etc, but if you are anywhere near trapping top of 5th in a b16 tranny you'll have a better setup.

Dear god the ls good for boost myth is still around?

As I stated before thats as dumbed down as I can be, there are alot more factors in picking gears and tranny.

Anyone whos ever mis matched a tranny to motors with Hondas should know this, for example a b16 with an LS tranny is a dog and bait for most anything. Or an LS motor with a b16 tranny scoots along making it feel like a whole diff car.

Off topic but as i'm babbling about gearing, Richmond 4:56s out back coming soon to my g/fs firebird .... that car will end my life.

 

so your saying that short *** gears are better for lower revving b20?
longer gears take advantage of the flat torque curve and wide powerband of a larger displacment engine. not to mention the added durability in a turbocharged car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so your saying that short *** gears are better for lower revving b20?
longer gears take advantage of the flat torque curve and wide powerband of a larger displacment engine. not to mention the added durability in a turbocharged car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, so using your theory why don't we just run a 1:1 gear and go?

I'm not getting nasty, just asking.

You have a short powerband and some umph in a b20 you want to get into that umph asap not taking time to jump up into its peak power, even in a lower reving motor as a b20 it's still making its peak up top.

Good gears get you into your power faster. An LS was made for fuel econ, the GSR SI and ITR all have shorter gearing, aside from a "better" motor.

 

ok... im not trying to argue, i like this discusion. i was refering to ls ratios when i said "longer gears". if im not mistakin, b20 makes peak torque at 4500rpm and stays pretty flat to redline. it makes peak hp at 6200 and redlines at 7800. is this correct? y1's and ys1's were designed for low torque, high revving motors. i dont quite see how you can justify that it is better based of your "shorter is better" theory. ive driven a stock b16 swapped EF with an ls tranny, ill admit that it felt sluggish. but with similar hp/torque available at a lower rpm i dont see why it wouldnt be ideal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok... im not trying to argue, i like this discusion. i was refering to ls ratios when i said "longer gears". if im not mistakin, b20 makes peak torque at 4500rpm and stays pretty flat to redline. it makes peak hp at 6200 and redlines at 7800. is this correct? y1's and ys1's were designed for low torque, high revving motors. i dont quite see how you can justify that it is better based of your "shorter is better" theory. ive driven a stock b16 swapped EF with an ls tranny, ill admit that it felt sluggish. but with similar hp/torque available at a lower rpm i dont see why it wouldnt be ideal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's fine anyone willing to learn and or debate is welcome even when I have math on my side

Let's use the 4500-redline peaking.

Now from a stop light, 2K and 4500

Don't you want to get into that "meat" faster? off idle you got a good 3.5K to rev up before you hit your peak and flat chunk of torque.

2k, punch it.... noth much is happening.... 4.5K tada your car stars scooting. A longer gear multiplys your torque less, and it'll take longer to get into its power band.

4500, your peaking and zip right to the redline as your torque is maxing it self and being mutliplyed more.

A low torque motor needs more gear to move, let alone be quick.

If you gear a motor that makes more toruqe the same as a car that makes less toruqe traction allowing wouldn't it be faster?

I said shorter is better simplfiyed a great deal esp with Hondas its almost non stop true.

As to matching and using less a gear, it can get away with it, but you'll be faster with more gear.

Let me add on : my lsvtec is around 200WHP and using an LS tranny it's about as fast as my CTR bolt on gsr with a gsr tranny. My lsvtec has a better power band and more power.

 

your argument makes sence but isnt it true for both trannys?
i mean, the ys1/y1 does put you into power faster, but what about when your into peak torque? isnt the ls going to hold that and use it more effiecently without having to shift so often?
basically this just comes down to acceleration vs. topspeed/fuel mileage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your argument makes sence but isnt it true for both trannys?
i mean, the ys1/y1 does put you into power faster, but what about when your into peak torque? isnt the ls going to hold that and use it more effiecently without having to shift so often?
basically this just comes down to acceleration vs. topspeed/fuel mileage</TD></TR></TABLE>
2 things make a tranny, the gear it self and the final drive.

You are going to need to shift, it's just how it is, when your in the power the the shorter gears you are using it even more effiecntly, then if you are in a longer geared tranny.

It just happens to spin faster so you'll need to shift. But if the motor is moving faster and on your power band thats a good thing.

It kinda boils down to the simplifaction I put up.

Hondas don't make much torque that's a fact even built boosted etc. They need a short gear to get going and keep going.

The only time equal cars equally driven *as if this is possible* the longer geared car will be faster is traction or top speed. Top speed can slighty be altered with tire sizing.

When I have my M&H slicks on i get a few more mph per gear then if I was to run my normal 15" tires. *same aspect as my stocker 13"s*

If you want longer gears, get an auto highstall and have the best of both worlds.

When a motor makes a ton of toruqe it can get away with a longer gear, but still benifit from a shorter gear.

For example, my g/fs firebird had I think a rear FD of around 2.73? and now it's got 4.10s and soon 4:56s. still stock gearing in the turbo 400 tranny though.

Shorter gears can be a pain in the butt due to the high cruising RPM.

Hence over drive gears are on cars in Hondas case a 5th, over drive gear is a term for really any gear under 1:1 ratio.

My camaro has double over drive. my first 3 gears are quite short, 4th is a 1:1 then OD 5th then double over drive .500:1.

So really you can get the best of both worlds with a good tranny and or picking of gears.

 

I have rambled alot and you might be dumber for reading that

 

max, what i meant was....what stock motor(stock ls, b20, etc) with stock internals can handle the most boost, be the most reliable and make the most hp, in short what motor without putting in rods, pistons, etc will be the best to throw a turbo kit on, i know a fair amount about this stuff but i know very little about turbocharging honda motors. by the way thanks for everyones input

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by olddohc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">max, what i meant was....what stock motor(stock ls, b20, etc) with stock internals can handle the most boost, be the most reliable and make the most hp, in short what motor without putting in rods, pistons, etc will be the best to throw a turbo kit on, i know a fair amount about this stuff but i know very little about turbocharging honda motors. by the way thanks for everyones input</TD></TR></TABLE>
LS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by olddohc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">max, what i meant was....what stock motor(stock ls, b20, etc) with stock internals can handle the most boost, be the most reliable and make the most hp, in short what motor without putting in rods, pistons, etc will be the best to throw a turbo kit on, i know a fair amount about this stuff but i know very little about turbocharging honda motors. by the way thanks for everyones input</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most boost as far as psi the LS.
Most power stock guts GSR
reliable none of the above, all on luck and tuning.

Frankly if you want to just slap together a turbo kit and go fast, I'd take the GSR.

Do please remember 10psi from a t25 is not the same as 10 psi on a GT35R, and you'll need to plan what kind of power and power band you want and can use.

As far as what will run and last it's all in your setup tune how you drive and condition of the motor.

Alot of people like boosted LS due to cost and it's lower comp ratio helps squeeze a few more psi out of it, it's down side is the lamer tranny and it's poor *next to other honda parts* head flow and lack of VTEC *i feel so dirty saying that lol*.

b20 is same boat plus it's often known to be weaker.

the GSR costs more and has a higher comp ratio, while limiting how much boost you can throw at it, its making more power a few people have/can make 300WHP @ 10psi off a good turbine like a propperly trimmed t3/t4, t3/t4s can be killers but only if a good trim, match accordingly to your needs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Max The Amazing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't make this out, well I can but now i'm nearly queasey.
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