My GS-r all motor
Ok guys, tell me what you think so far:
Comptech sri
JG/Edelbrock tb
Blox IM
Prelude saturated injectors
AEM fuel rail
AEM fpr
JG/Edelbrock header
flowmonster cat
Tanabe exhaust
Going on in the next 2 weeks:
Skunk2 Camshafts--stage 1
Skunk2 valve train (dual springs, ti retainers, valves)
Obd1 p72 w/ conversion harness
Crome chip for tuning
So what you guys think i will be getting on whp?
Maybe 180?
I hope so, trying to finish my setup for Feb. 17, for the Modacar Dyno day.
Here's a not up-dated picture of my engine bay:

Thanks 4 looking & let me know what you all think.
Comptech sri
JG/Edelbrock tb
Blox IM
Prelude saturated injectors
AEM fuel rail
AEM fpr
JG/Edelbrock header
flowmonster cat
Tanabe exhaust
Going on in the next 2 weeks:
Skunk2 Camshafts--stage 1
Skunk2 valve train (dual springs, ti retainers, valves)
Obd1 p72 w/ conversion harness
Crome chip for tuning
So what you guys think i will be getting on whp?
Maybe 180?
I hope so, trying to finish my setup for Feb. 17, for the Modacar Dyno day.
Here's a not up-dated picture of my engine bay:

Thanks 4 looking & let me know what you all think.
Got the prelude injectors and AEM fuel rail because my stock one busted, my stock injectors were also busted.
So, i got a great deal on the injectors, and they're running fine.
So, i got a great deal on the injectors, and they're running fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkankyEJ7’s Murr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my boyfriend will be putting skunk2 stage2's in his stock block jdm gsr, so i think you'll do fine. i think youll do 175 or so</TD></TR></TABLE>
stage 2's are way too aggresive for a stock b18c...he'll lose power
stage 2's are way too aggresive for a stock b18c...he'll lose power
not bad i would also do all the little cheap thing as well to get all the power you could like hondata manifold gaskets, ground kit maybe a 1 layerhead gasket,and some 110 when you hit the dyno.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkankyEJ7’s Murr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my boyfriend will be putting skunk2 stage2's in his stock block jdm gsr, so i think you'll do fine. i think youll do 175 or so</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IceySC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not bad i would also do all the little cheap thing as well to get all the power you could like hondata manifold gaskets, ground kit maybe a 1 layerhead gasket,and some 110 when you hit the dyno.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ground kit?
110 in a 10:1 motor?
Wow, you gotta love the advice you get on HT sometimes.
OP: Those stage 1's will work just fine in that setup.
lol...ya i'm not really trying to get every pony out. I just want to be satisfied with my current set-up along with what is going to be put on in 2 weeks.
If i really wanted as much power out of this, i'd change my exhaust system to a 2.5" diameter instead of 2.25".
And probably upgrade my pistons to change compression.
But i don't want to do too much internally.
As far as i'll go is the camshaft setup with valves, and nothing else--no boring, p&p, pistons, etc.
If i really wanted as much power out of this, i'd change my exhaust system to a 2.5" diameter instead of 2.25".
And probably upgrade my pistons to change compression.
But i don't want to do too much internally.
As far as i'll go is the camshaft setup with valves, and nothing else--no boring, p&p, pistons, etc.
Lol...nice sig dude, funny *** comments.
But i'm not sure where you got the "p30" unit?
I'm swapping my current ecu with p72 obd1 ecu. Good deal, and best bet with this swap in my opinion.
But i'm not sure where you got the "p30" unit?
I'm swapping my current ecu with p72 obd1 ecu. Good deal, and best bet with this swap in my opinion.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arexniba »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol...nice sig dude, funny *** comments.
But i'm not sure where you got the "p30" unit?
I'm swapping my current ecu with p72 obd1 ecu. Good deal, and best bet with this swap in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
jdm b16 pistons and stage 1 cams are a good combo, compression should yield a 11.3:1...
i went for a chipped p28 but everything comes down to tuning, going obd1 will gain nothing but an open door for tuning
But i'm not sure where you got the "p30" unit?
I'm swapping my current ecu with p72 obd1 ecu. Good deal, and best bet with this swap in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
jdm b16 pistons and stage 1 cams are a good combo, compression should yield a 11.3:1...
i went for a chipped p28 but everything comes down to tuning, going obd1 will gain nothing but an open door for tuning
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ground kit?
110 in a 10:1 motor?
Wow, you gotta love the advice you get on HT sometimes.
OP: Those stage 1's will work just fine in that setup.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont know where all these bad advices are coming from, apparantly LSVTEC 91 Civic is the only person who is talking some sense
as for now, your ok with stage 1's on a stock block, but i would go for a higher compression with stage 1 IMO
bigger cams loves high compression
Ground kit?
110 in a 10:1 motor?
Wow, you gotta love the advice you get on HT sometimes.
OP: Those stage 1's will work just fine in that setup.
</TD></TR></TABLE>dont know where all these bad advices are coming from, apparantly LSVTEC 91 Civic is the only person who is talking some sense
as for now, your ok with stage 1's on a stock block, but i would go for a higher compression with stage 1 IMO
bigger cams loves high compression
As i said guys, i know who's giving me the bad & good advices.
As for the compression, i know i'd feel more power and tq., but the fact of the matter is that i don't want to do too much to my engine internally.
Doing the cams w/ the valve-train was hard enough to convince myself to do it. Going any further, especially with pistons is 2 much.
As for the compression, i know i'd feel more power and tq., but the fact of the matter is that i don't want to do too much to my engine internally.
Doing the cams w/ the valve-train was hard enough to convince myself to do it. Going any further, especially with pistons is 2 much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arexniba »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As i said guys, i know who's giving me the bad & good advices.
As for the compression, i know i'd feel more power and tq., but the fact of the matter is that i don't want to do too much to my engine internally.
Doing the cams w/ the valve-train was hard enough to convince myself to do it. Going any further, especially with pistons is 2 much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
true, i hear ya...you'll do fine with these mods, a good 170whpish
and i suggest removing the cat..it's just a power consumer
As for the compression, i know i'd feel more power and tq., but the fact of the matter is that i don't want to do too much to my engine internally.
Doing the cams w/ the valve-train was hard enough to convince myself to do it. Going any further, especially with pistons is 2 much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
true, i hear ya...you'll do fine with these mods, a good 170whpish
and i suggest removing the cat..it's just a power consumer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95BG33PGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
stage 2's are way too aggresive for a stock b18c...he'll lose power
</TD></TR></TABLE>
all im leaving stock its the block the head with more than likely be ported and get a valve job, rocket motorsports valvetrain, and a thin hg...thus yeilding around 10.9:1
plus MANY people have used cams similar to the skunk2 stage 2, i took about 3 mins and found all of this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1261271
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=975178
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1541771
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1557589
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1177909 <like 4 ppl with stock gsr's with either s2s2 or jun3's making 185+
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan Ruddock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big cams will make more power with out raising compression as long as you have a good intake and exhaust and head work. I have seen stock block b18c run real strong with S2S2 cams which are fairly big cams. Sure it will run better with more cr but you don't have to do it. It's all about breathing and cams are part of that equation. Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan Ruddock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It is a very common misconception to set your compression to the cams in use. This is wrong you want to set it to the octane of the fuel in use. When the motor is in the power band of the cams the cyl gets a complete fill because the inertia of the incoming A/F mixture overcomes any pump out from late valve closure. This is why big cams make more power. My car a b17a has webcams of about the same as M22 with the stock 9.7 cr and it runs great with a 160k on the motor that has never even had the head off. The 10.6 cr is a good pump gas cr regardless of what cams you put in and that combo will last a long time. Most people in the import world run too much compression. Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive seen people run M22x (larger than jun3) cams on b16 and make around 175-180. heck i was gonna run m22x's but i couldnt afford the head package.
stage 2's are way too aggresive for a stock b18c...he'll lose power
</TD></TR></TABLE>all im leaving stock its the block the head with more than likely be ported and get a valve job, rocket motorsports valvetrain, and a thin hg...thus yeilding around 10.9:1
plus MANY people have used cams similar to the skunk2 stage 2, i took about 3 mins and found all of this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1261271
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=975178
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1541771
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1557589
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1177909 <like 4 ppl with stock gsr's with either s2s2 or jun3's making 185+
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan Ruddock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big cams will make more power with out raising compression as long as you have a good intake and exhaust and head work. I have seen stock block b18c run real strong with S2S2 cams which are fairly big cams. Sure it will run better with more cr but you don't have to do it. It's all about breathing and cams are part of that equation. Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan Ruddock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It is a very common misconception to set your compression to the cams in use. This is wrong you want to set it to the octane of the fuel in use. When the motor is in the power band of the cams the cyl gets a complete fill because the inertia of the incoming A/F mixture overcomes any pump out from late valve closure. This is why big cams make more power. My car a b17a has webcams of about the same as M22 with the stock 9.7 cr and it runs great with a 160k on the motor that has never even had the head off. The 10.6 cr is a good pump gas cr regardless of what cams you put in and that combo will last a long time. Most people in the import world run too much compression. Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive seen people run M22x (larger than jun3) cams on b16 and make around 175-180. heck i was gonna run m22x's but i couldnt afford the head package.
so you'll are saying that a ground kit doesnt help at all? and running 110 as well? and he never told us his compression on his motor and i also suggested a 1 layer headgasket to up the compression on his build . i'll say im not a expert at building motors but i did build a gsr with skunk2 stage 1 cams in it and i hit 200whp with a 138tq .
haha SkankyEJ7's not gonna lose power with Skunk2 Stage2's. Yes the gain would be larger with more compression, but hes not gonna lose power. I think he's doing a thin headgasket and flat face valves anyways.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IceySC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you'll are saying that a ground kit doesnt help at all? and running 110 as well? and he never told us his compression on his motor and i also suggested a 1 layer headgasket to up the compression on his build . i'll say im not a expert at building motors but i did build a gsr with skunk2 stage 1 cams in it and i hit 200whp with a 138tq . </TD></TR></TABLE>
The most power you will make is whatever the lowest octane you can run with optimal timing and not detonate. The higher the octane in short, the slower and more controlled the burn therefore without the compression and ignition timing to back it up, you will actually make less power with 110 than you would in a 11:1 motor on 93.
And a 1 layer headgasket is nothing more than an invite for detonation as it dicks up the design of the stock piston and combustion chamber, for a short explanation, I will plagerize this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The shape of the combustion chamber can also affect performance. Some hand porters will polish and reshape the combustion chamber to improve the quench zones. Quench areas are sections of the combustion chamber that direct the air/fuel mixture toward the spark plug during compression to minimize the amount of potentially unburned fuel at the extremities of the chamber as well as reduce the chance of detonation. The combustion chamber can also be welded, milled and repolished to increase compression and to completely change the shape of the quench areas to further improve combustion efficiency.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was taken from an interview with headgames. And there is a lot more to "building" a motor that just throwing in a set of cams and a headgasket. It takes a lot more time and to properly build it, after the machine shop is done, it will take assembly and disassemble about 3 times just to get the clearances correct and assemble it properly. Throwing aftermarket parts at a motor because someone brothers neice had the same setup and it made eleventy billion horsepower isn't going to cut it.
The most power you will make is whatever the lowest octane you can run with optimal timing and not detonate. The higher the octane in short, the slower and more controlled the burn therefore without the compression and ignition timing to back it up, you will actually make less power with 110 than you would in a 11:1 motor on 93.
And a 1 layer headgasket is nothing more than an invite for detonation as it dicks up the design of the stock piston and combustion chamber, for a short explanation, I will plagerize this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The shape of the combustion chamber can also affect performance. Some hand porters will polish and reshape the combustion chamber to improve the quench zones. Quench areas are sections of the combustion chamber that direct the air/fuel mixture toward the spark plug during compression to minimize the amount of potentially unburned fuel at the extremities of the chamber as well as reduce the chance of detonation. The combustion chamber can also be welded, milled and repolished to increase compression and to completely change the shape of the quench areas to further improve combustion efficiency.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was taken from an interview with headgames. And there is a lot more to "building" a motor that just throwing in a set of cams and a headgasket. It takes a lot more time and to properly build it, after the machine shop is done, it will take assembly and disassemble about 3 times just to get the clearances correct and assemble it properly. Throwing aftermarket parts at a motor because someone brothers neice had the same setup and it made eleventy billion horsepower isn't going to cut it.
lol...Iceysc: I never said what my compression was because i never changed it. If you read most of my posts, i've stated more than once that i'm not doing anything else internally besides the camshafts, valve train, and valves.
As for a grounding kit, and 110(i don't even know wtf that is), i'm not putting that on.
If ever anytime down the road when i have some $$$ to play with, the only thing i'll do is sell my current setup and go to a 2.5" diameter.
As for a grounding kit, and 110(i don't even know wtf that is), i'm not putting that on.
If ever anytime down the road when i have some $$$ to play with, the only thing i'll do is sell my current setup and go to a 2.5" diameter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arexniba »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If ever anytime down the road when i have some $$$ to play with, the only thing i'll do is sell my current setup and go to a 2.5" diameter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it wont change anything...like i stated before..i would go with a test pipe or something to get a better flow
If ever anytime down the road when i have some $$$ to play with, the only thing i'll do is sell my current setup and go to a 2.5" diameter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it wont change anything...like i stated before..i would go with a test pipe or something to get a better flow
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay_Sensing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The most power you will make is whatever the lowest octane you can run with optimal timing and not detonate. The higher the octane in short, the slower and more controlled the burn therefore without the compression and ignition timing to back it up, you will actually make less power with 110 than you would in a 11:1 motor on 93.
And a 1 layer headgasket is nothing more than an invite for detonation as it dicks up the design of the stock piston and combustion chamber, for a short explanation, I will plagerize this.
didnt know that . thats something new for me today ..lol... so what is your take on a diy or a name brand ground kit then? Ed at balanced performance told me it helps .
That was taken from an interview with headgames. And there is a lot more to "building" a motor that just throwing in a set of cams and a headgasket. It takes a lot more time and to properly build it, after the machine shop is done, it will take assembly and disassemble about 3 times just to get the clearances correct and assemble it properly. Throwing aftermarket parts at a motor because someone brothers neice had the same setup and it made eleventy billion horsepower isn't going to cut it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The most power you will make is whatever the lowest octane you can run with optimal timing and not detonate. The higher the octane in short, the slower and more controlled the burn therefore without the compression and ignition timing to back it up, you will actually make less power with 110 than you would in a 11:1 motor on 93.
And a 1 layer headgasket is nothing more than an invite for detonation as it dicks up the design of the stock piston and combustion chamber, for a short explanation, I will plagerize this.
didnt know that . thats something new for me today ..lol... so what is your take on a diy or a name brand ground kit then? Ed at balanced performance told me it helps .
That was taken from an interview with headgames. And there is a lot more to "building" a motor that just throwing in a set of cams and a headgasket. It takes a lot more time and to properly build it, after the machine shop is done, it will take assembly and disassemble about 3 times just to get the clearances correct and assemble it properly. Throwing aftermarket parts at a motor because someone brothers neice had the same setup and it made eleventy billion horsepower isn't going to cut it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IceySC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not bad i would also do all the little cheap thing as well to get all the power you could like hondata manifold gaskets, ground kit maybe a 1 layerhead gasket,and some 110 when you hit the dyno.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why in the hell would he change his octane just for the dyno or dyno tune when he is using max of 93 octane on the street? If you can tell me the problem with this situation, I'll give you a cookie.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Why in the hell would he change his octane just for the dyno or dyno tune when he is using max of 93 octane on the street? If you can tell me the problem with this situation, I'll give you a cookie.


