hey guys, dont really know how to make a poll, but which do u think is better?

 

Hondata's easier, AEM has more features.

There really is no "better" system, it all depends on what you plan to do with the car.

EDIT: I've got the AEM, but haven't got started on it yet.


[Modified by newt2, 9:07 AM 5/17/2002]

 

coo thx, ive got the supercharger in, just REALLY need to get it dynoed as soon as i get the 12 psi pully i also got a new fuel rail.. later on down the road im plannin on going NOS direct port... I just finsihed payin off the SC and need to start savin up this summer.. i think the AEM would work out lil better in long run, but not to sure..

 

If you're going with 12psi and NOS, I think the AEM is probably the way to go too. The AEM unit has built in nitrous countrol, so you can really fine tune it for when the nitrous comes on and not have to worry about using a wet kit or some type of hack job regulator to get the right fuel.

With 12psi, you'll need some type of intercooling too. All there is available is water injection right now. If you go that route, get the aquamist kit. It's the same exact kit as JR sells and it's about $200 less.

The AEM is a complicated system, but that's also why it's so powerful.

 

where can i find it? thx pimp

 

Two of my friends have them. I think they got it from Summit racing, in fact I'm 99% sure that's where they got it.

 

Neat...they have it available for the NSX now...I might try it out... Where would you guys recommend I look to purchase it?

-Andie

 

I got mine off of http://www.groupbuycenter.com for $1300. I think Summit sells them for about the same amount.

 

To Aquamist. Running it on my brother's Talon, and he saw enormous throttle body temp drops. We're running one nozzle before the FMIC and another 6" in front of the throttle body.

 

There is currently not a lot of support, by way of people that know how to tune it, for the AEM system. Have you looked at the cost of it? It's pretty expensive.

The Hondata seems like a better deal to me (at least for the Stage 2 - which is all most people need) - unless you need drag launching capability and real time data logging.

IMO - get your car tuned right once and go

 

The AEM is FAR from plug and play. I really wish they would address that (AEM). We have had the opp to play with one on an S2000 and received great results, but not without MUCH work and sweat. Software had more bugs than a pile of steaming warm dung. After all that we went through, though, customer was satisfied with the results. I had to keep telling him to hang in there, as he was wanting to quit on a few occassions. If you have the ability to tune with it, it will do great things. It is definitely not something I would mess with as a novice, though. We will be using this car to test out the Toda F20C cams, too, so we are hoping to dial as much out of it as possible. Good luck!


[Modified by FAST4DR, 6:25 PM 5/17/2002]

 

save your money and get a TECH 3
there nuts it dose so much

 

TEC-3's are just as expensive and require a complete rewiring of the car and new sensors too. Screw that.

I didn't go with Hondata simply because there is not a single 4b unit in the entire state of Colorado. I'd have no way to save changes to the car unless I bought a 4b which is a lot more than the AEM once you factor in the wiring harness adapter and OBD1 ECU.

I'll be doing the AEM install in the first weekend of June. I expect it to be tough, but I've done my homework on it so it should be do-able. I have a friend who's done a couple Haltech systes to help out too.

 

.....what features does AEM have that hondata doesn't?

 

if any1's interested, we have an AEM EMS that a local customer of ours backed out of and i need to get rid of it ASAP. plugs into 99+ civics and 00+ tegs. IM me for pricing, sure to be cheaper than the GB price

 

1. Built in nitrous control
2. Built in boost control
3. Support for seperate EGT probes on each cyl. and the system can adjust fuel and timing based on the readings.
4. UEGO Senser support. If you buy a UEGO sensor, you can plug in the desired AF ratio and the ECU takes care of the rest.
5. The ability to retard timing based on both boost level and knock count.
6. Will run any engine up to 10 cyl, so if you get a wild hair up your *** and decide to shoehorn a V8 in there it'll work.
7. Supports any ignition system, you can do a direct fire ignition of you want.

Really the list goes on and on. Anything you want to do the ECU can support it.

 

If anyone wants to look at the manuals drop me an email at newt2@mho.net.

They're PDF files so I can just attach them and send them back. Lots of good information even if a standalone is not in your future.

 

Not everyone wants to remove their ac/ps to run a crank trigger